matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #1

Hi guys I’m new here so please be kind I’ve been reading some posts but non seem to apply to my car, I’m seeking your advice and experience with these Vehicles,
So I have a 2004(53) RR L322 TD6 one afternoon I came home from work and all was good no faults whatsoever with the vehicle and went to nip to the shop and the ignition key wouldn’t turn so I diagnosed it as a faulty steering column replaced that and boom key turned ignition now work and all lights come on but still doesn’t start.. so I checked basics first fuses, starter motor wiring etc and nothing, tested power coming into and out of the ignition switch bottom and that’s all good. Battery is abit poor but wouldn’t have thought it’s enough to cause this,
Battery voltage comes out of the ignition switch Upto the ews module but either something inhibits the immobiliser mod or the ews module has packed up I’m way out of my Depths now can anyone of you genius’s advise me I’m a mechanic myself but rarely get to work on LR’s
Thanks in advance Matthew

 

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

• Sep 26, 2020

• #2

when you say your battery is "poor" what voltage is it kicking out?

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #3

Henry_b said:

when you say your battery is "poor" what voltage is it kicking out?

Click to expand...

11.8 volts I’m ordering a battery anyway but even with a boost pack on the fault still remains

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 27, 2020

• #4

I believe I may be getting somewhere reading live data there is no key detected in the ignition by the reader/transponder, but I’m unsure on how to test this without guessing. It works fine with the central locking etc but I understand that’s read through the BCM under passenger seat? I’ve heard @holidaychicken saying sometimes the key can need paring Back to ews but presume I would need testbook/rova to attempt that This cars going to be the end of me please help

 

holidaychicken

Well-Known Member

• Sep 27, 2020

• #5

It’s been a while but you would have a fault code logged if the key wasn’t paired to the EWS.
Faultmate and think allcomms can program the link.

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 27, 2020

• #6

Ok so borrowed my friends launch kit logged a code In the engine ecu...P1602 ews malfunction - start code in EEPROM faulty Once I’ve cracked this I’ll post the solution for anyone who comes across the same issue.. got a feeling EWS has packed up anyone have any thoughts

 

holidaychicken

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #7

Where are you, it could just be the link needs programming again, mine used to lose it regularly after a battery disconnect .
Can you borrow an all comma as non LR specific diagnostics can give confusing results

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #8

Have you tried this to re sync the key

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #9

I’m in Brighouse West Yorkshire.. I can’t borrow all com’s and I know what you mean about giving fault codes that can send you down the wrong path. I wouldn’t at all be surprised if the link needs programming/re/syncing because looking at the wiring diagrams everything appears to test good. I can’t wait to find what’s dragging it down. Someone else said they had a key chip go bad on them this is also a possibility as I only have one key so can’t rule it out.

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #10

@backinblack thanks for the vid may come in handy in future but that’s the re sync for body control module under passenger seat which is for central locking etc, my key opens and locks the car but won’t start it, his starts it but no central locking. What I need is to re sync the key to ews so it recognises the chip as valid or possibly the keys valid but it’s not sending rolling code to ECM/ECU to accept a crank signal Properly confusing s***t but think @holidaychicken has had the same problem before

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #11

I thought it re synced the rolling code as well but I could be wrong.

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #12

I doubt it will do but could be proven wrong Its worth a go and let you know the outcome

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #13

now't to lose

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #14

Yeah just tried that it just syncs the key to BCM

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #15

Is there a different procedure to re syncing your original key and a new dealer supplied key?

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #16

the procedure is the same to my knowlage dealer supplied key just needs initialising/syncing as its pre coded to your car the only time you will find a problem if someone has previously replaced a lock kit / engine ecu and immobiliser then they dont recognise the transponder.

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #17

going back to my problem ive had a code pop up ive not seen before, p/n line from immobilser short to battery, i assume this is the Park neutral line which acts as an inhibitor, am i wrong could mean something else?

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2020

• #18

The procedure in the video is the one I followed to pair up my new dealer supplied key.

 

matthew robinson

Member

• Sep 29, 2020

• #19

did that not work for you?

 

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 29, 2020

• #20

Yes the procedure in the video worked for me.