kjk1908

kjk1908

New Member
I know. I have searched. I have read everything, but perhaps somebody has got a miracle cure for this bolt...

I progressed according to the manual:
T6BsjSf.jpg

Track rod end can be popped easily with this £9.75 tool. Sadly, I tried the fork first and wrecked the rubber in the process, but you live and learn...
KVpRWHI.jpg

ICNeYub.jpg

bxJtZEs.jpg

I am stuck on that bolt. I have been spraying and hammering it like mushroomed bolts were about to go out of fashion - to no avail. Any hint will be appreciated...

Chris
 
If i need to hit the wrong end of a bolt, I always make sure to put a nut on so you don't knacker the thread :(
if you'd put 2 on, you could have locked them up and tried to turn the bolt
 
I guess you've tried a strong arm on the other end of the bolt ? with the top bolt back in obv's
 
I replaced mine a week or so ago and came up against the same problem. This worked for me but when it comes to rusted bolts there is no one right way. Soaked it in WD, put the nut on and turned a few threads, put the other bolt back in (copper slip first), gave the bolt head a few good thumps and then heated, strong arm on bolt head and hit the nut end, more heat and thumps, when there was the slightest of movement I soaked in WD and had a cup of tea.... Got to have tea! Few more taps on either end and a bit more WD and strong arm on bolt end back and forth, eventually came out with a bit of patience, took about an hour..
 
Mine were the same stuck solid. Heat with torch and smack it with sledge hammer. it will pop out. wont go back in though.

Steveeasy
 
I am very grateful for all the answers!

kermit_rr said:
If i need to hit the wrong end of a bolt, I always make sure to put a nut on so you don't knacker the thread :(
if you'd put 2 on, you could have locked them up and tried to turn the bolt
Click to expand...

Not a problem mate, I already have a new one waiting to go in! :)

backinblack said:
I guess you've tried a strong arm on the other end of the bolt ? with the top bolt back in obv's
Click to expand...

Yes. After giving it my all via breaker bar it turns for about 60 degrees (I used a marker on it to be sure). When I say "turns" it really sort of shoots extremely fast with a bang. Nothing happens afterwards - it still does not want to be ejected.

backinblack said:
or one of these

View attachment 233044
Click to expand...

Got one. Too weak.

Rallymantony said:
I replaced mine a week or so ago and came up against the same problem. This worked for me but when it comes to rusted bolts there is no one right way. Soaked it in WD, put the nut on and turned a few threads, put the other bolt back in (copper slip first), gave the bolt head a few good thumps and then heated, strong arm on bolt head and hit the nut end, more heat and thumps, when there was the slightest of movement I soaked in WD and had a cup of tea.... Got to have tea! Few more taps on either end and a bit more WD and strong arm on bolt end back and forth, eventually came out with a bit of patience, took about an hour..
Click to expand...

It seems that heating seems to be the winner with a lot of respondents. I am in a place where I cannot really use an open flame without getting into trouble. Do you think an induction heater would also do the trick?
 
kjk1908 said:
I am very grateful for all the answers!



Not a problem mate, I already have a new one waiting to go in! :)



Yes. After giving it my all via breaker bar it turns for about 60 degrees (I used a marker on it to be sure). When I say "turns" it really sort of shoots extremely fast with a bang. Nothing happens afterwards - it still does not want to be ejected.



Got one. Too weak.



It seems that heating seems to be the winner with a lot of respondents. I am in a place where I cannot really use an open flame without getting into trouble. Do you think an induction heater would also do the trick?
Click to expand...
Can't hurt but I'm not sure if it will expand the metal enough. If you've got it turning a little then soak it in WD and leave it for the night is my best answer buddy
 
WD do do a penetrating lubricant but the common-or-garden WD40 isn't it & you're wasting your time.
Plusgas is much better.
If it won't shift is there a load on it?
Heat can be a great shifter of stuck fasteners. I use a blowtorch but have spent a lot of time trying to persuade myself to buy an induction heater. For the low use it would now get I just can't justify the cost.
 
They are specific bolts with a 17mm shaft, that makes them a git to shift... Turn it until it frees up and then bash the ship out of it... I've had success using wd and heat to shift stuff. Just a simple blow lamp will do wonders. :D
 
I bought my self one of these (ignore the packaging it comes in a blue box), had same problem lower bolt on right hand side heated bolt head then thread couple of times sprayed it knocked it back and forth heated it again and finally it let go.
 

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kds said:
I bought my self one of these (ignore the packaging it comes in a blue box), had same problem lower bolt on right hand side heated bolt head then thread couple of times sprayed it knocked it back and forth heated it again and finally it let go.
Click to expand...

Bought it!

Mark Piercy said:
They are specific bolts with a 17mm shaft, that makes them a git to shift... Turn it until it frees up and then bash the ship out of it... I've had success using wd and heat to shift stuff. Just a simple blow lamp will do wonders. :D
Click to expand...

Heating it with the above, turning with a breaker bar, and bashing it with a BFH did this:
Jeeeez.jpg


I lost all the battles, but I won the war! Thank you for all the replies which kept me going!

Now, any hints about replacing track rod end that I wasted in the process? ;)
 
If heats not available.
I use pleanty Easy start like you would wd40 it eats rust.
Then put the top bolt back in and a bar to force the bolt to spin. Once it moves a bit then hit it out.
 
Kev12 said:
https://www.balljointboots.co.uk/

Unless you think its time to replace the track rod end anyway. I have one of their mixed packs for when the fork is the only tool that fits
Click to expand...

Useful, thanks! I will get a mixed set to have at hand, but will replace the track rod end on this occasion - I bought the big bugger with an intention to learn car mechanics, so there is no need to take any shortcuts ;)
 
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