AdamElphick

AdamElphick

Member
Well I went away on holiday and the dreaded wireless receiver issue killed my brand new Yuasa battery so badly it wont charge (so back off to Halfrauds for a replacement as it really shoudlnt do that!). Luckily the fob hasn't lost sync this time and I got him started using my MG as a jumper. 25 minutes running and the battery would only reach 10v (I tried charging for 24 hours yesterday with my charger and assumed the charger was broken!).

Anyway therefore I want to do a permanent fix for this rediuculous issue. I was thinking of a version of the 'second keyfob' fix. Rather than having yet another fob, which switched a relay to switch the receiver on and off before I use the actual LR fob, I want to put a switch in the circuit. I will run it up through teh rear hatch and down to the numberplate light panel, then have the switch nestled in the 'handle' part.

Switch to on position - wireless on
Switch to off possition - wireless off

Simples!

Question is what wire should 'switch'? Once I know that it should be very simple (and very cheap) to solve the issue once and for all! After all I never use the fob unless I am by the car anyway, so a mnaual switch is ideal.
 
I just unplugged my receiver and use the key in the door. But to answer the question, I guess you could actually switch any of the three wires (ignoring the antenna wire) as they are power, earth and becm link. Disabling any of them will have the desired effect.
 
I found that the second fob fix uses the orange so I think I'll use that - guess it's the power wire?

Thanks for letting me know it doesn't really mater though... at least I can't kill the thing!
 
AdamElphick said:
I found that the second fob fix uses the orange so I think I'll use that - guess it's the power wire?

Thanks for letting me know it doesn't really mater though... at least I can't kill the thing!
Click to expand...
It's the signal wire to the BECM.
 
AdamElphick said:
I found that the second fob fix uses the orange so I think I'll use that - guess it's the power wire?

Thanks for letting me know it doesn't really mater though... at least I can't kill the thing!
Click to expand...

As Datatec posted, that's the wire to the BECM. If you want to go down the second remote path then get a remote "jog" switch" off the bay of E , wire the pos and neg by splicing into the r/f receiver. Cut the orange wire from the r/f and wire the two ends into the jog switch. The circuit to the BECM will only be complete when you operate the jog switch remote then you can use the r/r remote to lock/unlock. I have been using mine for some time and my switch cost less than £3.:)
 
Switch the orange wire. I did a manual switch at first, whilst my ebay one (£4.73) came on a slow boat from China.
 
TVRConvert said:
Switch the orange wire. I did a manual switch at first, whilst my ebay one (£4.73) came on a slow boat from China.
Click to expand...

£4.73, robbing barstewards:D did you get a jog switch? saves having to switch it to isolate the r/f as it only works whilst the remote button is operated
 
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All done. I switched the orange wire as planned. Running the wires up to the the top hatch edge was a right pain in the ass though! Channels were full of expanded foam - I guess from factory - so i had to be creative. In the end got it through to the number plate light 'handle', and put the switch up inside there.

I actually prefer a manual switch to having another remote fob to be honest. I am never going to want to lock or unlock the car when I am not near it, and having another battery operated cludge on my keyring is just not appealing to me.

So now to see if the battery drain is finally gone after years of trouble!
 
I had all this flat battery aggro and then I read a post from a kind contributor on here (shamefully, I can't remember who) who said that the RF receiver was the most likely problem in the vast majority of cases.

So I located the little herbert and removed his antenna.

Now to lock/unlock the car I point the remote to the glass immediately above the fuel filler flap.

Works every time and no more dead battery problems.

Sure, I have to place the remote right next to the car and can't do the flash locking as I waltz into B & Q's lobby but who cares:)

And I don't have to think about £240 for a later generation receiver:eek:

Mine's a '97 flavour if this helps.
 
Fergie46 said:
I had all this flat battery aggro and then I read a post from a kind contributor on here (shamefully, I can't remember who) who said that the RF receiver was the most likely problem in the vast majority of cases.

So I located the little herbert and removed his antenna.

Now to lock/unlock the car I point the remote to the glass immediately above the fuel filler flap.

Works every time and no more dead battery problems.

Sure, I have to place the remote right next to the car and can't do the flash locking as I waltz into B & Q's lobby but who cares:)

And I don't have to think about £240 for a later generation receiver:eek:

Mine's a '97 flavour if this helps.
Click to expand...
As the receiver can still fail and burn your door locks out, don't rest too easy:rolleyes:
 
I made the plunge on a new receiver. Unfortunately too late for my old Bosch battery. Luckily I had a spare that Datatek recommends but never fitted. Now my only problem is getting time to replace the glowplugs.
 
Well after deliberately not using the car for a week i popped the switch, unlocked him, turned the key and....... Powerful start first time! Yayy
 
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