R

Redwall

Guest

• Jun 6, 2005

• #1

1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??


--
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W

Will Honea

Guest

• Jun 6, 2005

• #2

On Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:36:51 UTC Redwall
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
> at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
> back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
> before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
> sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??

Unplug the CPS and TPS sensor connectors and give them a really good
cleaning. Use waterproof grease (dielectric grease sold for spark
plug boots works well) liberally on the rubber seals when you put them
back together to keep moisture out. The oxidation buildup on the
connector pins will cause this kind of cutout, escpecially in damp
weather.

--
Will Honea

 

E

extremetjs

Guest

• Jun 24, 2005

• #3

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-nDbLmrHds8pd@anon.none.net...
> On Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:36:51 UTC Redwall
> <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:
>
>> 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
>> at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
>> back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
>> before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
>> sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??
>
> Unplug the CPS and TPS sensor connectors and give them a really good
> cleaning. Use waterproof grease (dielectric grease sold for spark
> plug boots works well) liberally on the rubber seals when you put them
> back together to keep moisture out. The oxidation buildup on the
> connector pins will cause this kind of cutout, escpecially in damp
> weather.
>
> --
> Will Honea


I am not too sure if they used the crank sensor on the flywheen
(bellhousing) in '95 but I recently went through something very similar in a
'97 wrangler same engine. simple replacement I believe there was only 2
10mm bolts and the part was $80.00 at auro zone I would also get the
replacment warranty as for the first one I got was bad.... and as everybody
knows when you buy electronics from parts houses they are non returnable
(unless you get the wty).


Larry

 

A

ajeeperman

Guest

• Jul 9, 2005

• #4

bad battery connction.
clean well by removing all wires and CLEAN WELL
old john


"Redwall" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_597243_22fcf166e4529c7ac4f51938b576d677@autoforumz.com...
> 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
> at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
> back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
> before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
> sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??
>
>
> --
> Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
> Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-Jeep-Cherokee-ftopict122783.html
> Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=597243

 

B

bob@buzzbeer.com

Guest

• Jul 11, 2005

• #5

: bad battery connction.
: clean well by removing all wires and CLEAN WELL
: old john


: "Redwall" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
: news:1_597243_22fcf166e4529c7ac4f51938b576d677@autoforumz.com...
: > 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
: > at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
: > back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
: > before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
: > sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??

Nope - once started, a car can run without the battery. The alternator
is providing the current - the battery isn't necessary.

 

W

Will Honea

Guest

• Jul 12, 2005

• #6

On Mon, 11 Jul 2005 21:09:53 UTC bob@buzzbeer.com wrote:

>
> : bad battery connction.
> : clean well by removing all wires and CLEAN WELL
> : old john
>
>
> : "Redwall" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> : news:1_597243_22fcf166e4529c7ac4f51938b576d677@autoforumz.com...
> : > 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
> : > at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
> : > back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
> : > before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
> : > sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??
>
> Nope - once started, a car can run without the battery. The alternator
> is providing the current - the battery isn't necessary.

It MAY run on just the alternator - once you excite it initially - but
pulling the battery cables off and running with no battery is a really
good way to fry an alternator along with a bunch of other expensive
parts. With no battery connected, an automotive electrical system is
a very noisy environment. It serves as a filter as well as reserve -
don't try yanking the battery ground just to see if it will work.

--
Will Honea

 

M

Mike Romain

Guest

• Jul 12, 2005

• #7

bob@buzzbeer.com wrote:
>
> : bad battery connction.
> : clean well by removing all wires and CLEAN WELL
> : old john
>
> : "Redwall" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> : news:1_597243_22fcf166e4529c7ac4f51938b576d677@autoforumz.com...
> : > 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
> : > at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
> : > back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to recrank
> : > before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
> : > sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??
>
> Nope - once started, a car can run without the battery. The alternator
> is providing the current - the battery isn't necessary.

Not on a newer Jeep!

You cannot take the battery out of the circuit on the newer vehicles,
computer chips 'will' fry.

Our old roommate learned this. He fried the stereo, engine computer
(voltage regulator is in the computer) and the alternator. It was an
expensive lesson in electronics.

The shutting down at highway speeds is 99.9% of the time a dirty
connection on the flywheel crankshaft position sensor. A good spray
clean with some contact cleaner does them wonders.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

A

ajeeperman

Guest

• Jul 12, 2005

• #8

I think it is still a dirty battery connection.
mine and a friends did this and we had to remove and baking soda wash all
terminals. never happened again.
old john

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42D3CEB8.BFD1899@sympatico.ca...
> bob@buzzbeer.com wrote:
> >
> > : bad battery connction.
> > : clean well by removing all wires and CLEAN WELL
> > : old john
> >
> > : "Redwall" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> > : news:1_597243_22fcf166e4529c7ac4f51938b576d677@autoforumz.com...
> > : > 1995 Jeep 4.0L Runs fine except every once in a while it shuts down
> > : > at highway speeds. Lost power for split second and then pops right
> > : > back on. Stalled once on highway approx.70mph and was able to
recrank
> > : > before getting railed. No codes show on scanner. Possible crank
> > : > sensor, fuel filter or ignition short??
> >
> > Nope - once started, a car can run without the battery. The alternator
> > is providing the current - the battery isn't necessary.
>
> Not on a newer Jeep!
>
> You cannot take the battery out of the circuit on the newer vehicles,
> computer chips 'will' fry.
>
> Our old roommate learned this. He fried the stereo, engine computer
> (voltage regulator is in the computer) and the alternator. It was an
> expensive lesson in electronics.
>
> The shutting down at highway speeds is 99.9% of the time a dirty
> connection on the flywheel crankshaft position sensor. A good spray
> clean with some contact cleaner does them wonders.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

S

Spud Demon

Guest

• Jul 13, 2005

• #9

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> writes in article <42D3CEB8.BFD1899@sympatico.ca> dated Tue, 12 Jul 2005 10:07:52 -0400:
>Not on a newer Jeep!
>
>You cannot take the battery out of the circuit on the newer vehicles,
>computer chips 'will' fry.
>
>Our old roommate learned this. He fried the stereo, engine computer
>(voltage regulator is in the computer) and the alternator. It was an
>expensive lesson in electronics.

You'd think Jeep would spend the $1 on a capacitor to protect the
electronics!

>The shutting down at highway speeds is 99.9% of the time a dirty
>connection on the flywheel crankshaft position sensor. A good spray
>clean with some contact cleaner does them wonders.

I've had it happen due to a bad distributor.

-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.

 

L

Lon

Guest

• Jul 17, 2005

• #10

Spud Demon proclaimed:

> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> writes in article <42D3CEB8.BFD1899@sympatico.ca> dated Tue, 12 Jul 2005 10:07:52 -0400:
>
>>Not on a newer Jeep!
>>
>>You cannot take the battery out of the circuit on the newer vehicles,
>>computer chips 'will' fry.
>>
>>Our old roommate learned this. He fried the stereo, engine computer
>>(voltage regulator is in the computer) and the alternator. It was an
>>expensive lesson in electronics.
>
>
> You'd think Jeep would spend the $1 on a capacitor to protect the
> electronics!

A capacitor is irrelevant. What is needed is a load to keep the
alternator from heading toward open circuit voltage. Compared to
the load of a battery, the electronics are pretty much open
circuit. If you put such a load, then the charging of the
alternator would be divided across the battery and the load.
You *might* be able to protect the electronics from idiocy by
adding some heavy duty diodes and voltage regulators, definitely
not the sacrifial type of transient suppressor.