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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
I had a galvanised chassis delivered this week. However, nothing ever seems to be simple with anything to do with this project.

Firstly, I need to remove unwanted excess zinc from the steering relay and bush holes. I need to do this somehow without compromising the coating itself. I bought a set of Floflex poly bushes, and as far as I can see they have some flexibility. I suppose this means that the holes don't need to be as perfectly round as with the old steel tube type. I will first remove any roughness from the hole using a small flap wheel on a drill.

There is also the issue of how to attach the stays for the rear tub. They were attached to the old painted steel chassis with weld. Obviosuly I don't want to remove any galvanising to do this on the new chassis. I'm not keen on the idea of drilling into it either.

The chassis has been given one coating of matt black tetroseal. I would think that it would benefit from a few more coats. How should I treat the inside of the chassis? My plan was to cut some thin squares of aluminium or plastic plate and stick them over the holes with tiger seal to keep any water or mud out of the inside of the chassis. Is tetroseal sufficient protection?

Thanks for any info or advice.
 
Put waxoil in the chassis, give it a good coating and will last for a long long long time. Can also put waxoil in the bulkhead too to make that last
 
Webley1991 said:
I had a galvanised chassis delivered this week. However, nothing ever seems to be simple with anything to do with this project.

Firstly, I need to remove unwanted excess zinc from the steering relay and bush holes. I need to do this somehow without compromising the coating itself. I bought a set of Floflex poly bushes, and as far as I can see they have some flexibility. I suppose this means that the holes don't need to be as perfectly round as with the old steel tube type. I will first remove any roughness from the hole using a small flap wheel on a drill.

There is also the issue of how to attach the stays for the rear tub. They were attached to the old painted steel chassis with weld. Obviosuly I don't want to remove any galvanising to do this on the new chassis. I'm not keen on the idea of drilling into it either.

The chassis has been given one coating of matt black tetroseal. I would think that it would benefit from a few more coats. How should I treat the inside of the chassis? My plan was to cut some thin squares of aluminium or plastic plate and stick them over the holes with tiger seal to keep any water or mud out of the inside of the chassis. Is tetroseal sufficient protection?

Thanks for any info or advice.
Click to expand...

Did you do a galv wash/pickle before you put a coating on it? and did you use a zinc chromate primer ?
 
I'd be more worried about all that cold galv spray on most of the welds !! Grease all bolts when fitting !!!
 
My galv chassis is 10-15 years old. There has been no protection on the inside and its still shiny gslv when i look in with a torch. Just black waxoyle on the outside, although rear cross member painted satin black.
I thought those tub supports should be be bolted between the inner tub side and outer wing - not the chassis. Dont forget, the galv is not just a plated coating, it fuses into the steel somewhat. Drilling it should be ok if you apply plenty of grease around holes and any potential corrosion would be incredibly slow for many years as remaining area is galved. Even drill holes in regular steel are not a major issue.
 
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Any holes you did have to drill out could be sprayed with cold galv as protection, as Landraver says you don't usually get rust around bolts (unless you doing something silly like launching boats into the sea!)
 
Thanks for the replies.

Thor: It has been painted with Tetroseal, which I can best describe as a cross between underseal and paint. This was applied stright to the galvanised surface.
 
Tetroseal will not adhere to the Galv properly.
You need to "prep" the Galv surface to allow ANY type of paint, underseal etc etc to properly stick to it.

1. A good pressure wash with some detergent to remove and greasy residue.
2. Dry
3. Mordant Solution is the normal choice
4. Wash again
5. Dry
6. A Galv primer
7. Dry
8. 3+ Coats of your choice of underseal
 
Thanks for the replies.

The trouble is that the chassis has already been given a coat of tetroseal by the seller. So to do it properly would mean removing this.
 
It was a business and a new chassis. It's illegal to swap a used chassis onto another vehicle.

They asked me if I wanted it painting and at the time I replied yes.
 
Webley1991 said:
It was a business and a new chassis. It's illegal to swap a used chassis onto another vehicle.

They asked me if I wanted it painting and at the time I replied yes.
Click to expand...

:lol: if you say so:rolleyes: just need the correct paper work. Was a member on here that got a good used chassis did his engine mounts relocated, bead blasted and then galvanized, then rebuilt his disco on it:rolleyes:
 
Webley1991 said:
It's illegal to swap a used chassis onto another vehicle.
Click to expand...

That's utter bollocks.

You just need to use the ID of the chassis and not the ID of the old rotten one. Nothing at all illegal about buying and using a second hand chassis though.
 
If you keep the ID of the "new" chassis I suppose that would technically be "replacing the engine, axles and bodywork of an exisiting vehicle".

What I meant was to swap a used chassis and keep the vehicle on the ID of the original one is illegal.
 
Webley1991 said:
If you keep the ID of the "new" chassis I suppose that would technically be "replacing the engine, axles and bodywork of an exisiting vehicle".

What I meant was to swap a used chassis and keep the vehicle on the ID of the original one is illegal.
Click to expand...

if you buy a old chassis with the V5 they/officials can re stamp that chassis with you old numbers, cut out old chassis number keep that part of the chassis. they destroy old V5 and make entry in your V5. There are legal ways to do what you say can't be done
 
Thor1950 said:
if you buy a old chassis with the V5 they/officials can re stamp that chassis with you old numbers, cut out old chassis number keep that part of the chassis. they destroy old V5 and make entry in your V5. There are legal ways to do what you say can't be done
Click to expand...

You don't half spout some ****e you know. The only people who can legally stamp a chassis number on, is the manufacturer.

The simplest way to swap a used chassis is to inform DVLA of the change of chassis. They will then either agree to issue a new v5 with the new chassis number or take it for a Vehicle Identity check and they will then decide whether to let you keep either the original reg number or issue a new age related registration number.

A chassis swap is classed as "Like for Like" and doesn't accrue any points.
 
redhand said:
You don't half spout some ****e you know. The only people who can legally stamp a chassis number on, is the manufacturer.

The simplest way to swap a used chassis is to inform DVLA of the change of chassis. They will then either agree to issue a new v5 with the new chassis number or take it for a Vehicle Identity check and they will then decide whether to let you keep either the original reg number or issue a new age related registration number.

A chassis swap is classed as "Like for Like" and doesn't accrue any points.
Click to expand...

What is the officials that do the number thing when you put a new galvy on a rebuild to do your chassis numbers. Remember reading on here of someone doing that had all their receipts for everything needing new numbers on their chassis.Back a year or so.
 
Thor1950 said:
What is the officials that do the number thing when you put a new galvy on a rebuild to do your chassis numbers. Remember reading on here of someone doing that had all their receipts for everything needing new numbers on their chassis.Back a year or so.
Click to expand...


DVLA will just leave that section blank if you fit a new chassis.
 
redhand said:
DVLA will just leave that section blank if you fit a new chassis.
Click to expand...

Make sure it's the same in each location and matches that on the V5C.
Ensure it hasn't been tampered with - if it's scratched or the rivets have been disturbed, ask why.
See if any glass has been scratched - the VIN may have been scratched off.
If the VIN begins with the letters SABTVRO the VIN has been re-stamped by the Ministry of Transport. This can mean it has a new body shell or that there's a query over the true identity or age of the vehicle.

This is what I remember, the Ministry of Transport official can re stamp your vin numbers
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the replies.

Thor: It has been painted with Tetroseal, which I can best describe as a cross between underseal and paint. This was applied stright to the galvanised surface.
Click to expand...

Be careful, that Tetraseal stuff loves hiding rust from you. Its perfect at trapping moisture and reaking havoc on anything vulnerable. But I gues if its galvanised, shouldn't really matter. I'd still use waxoyl tho, even though its gets all over you when your underneath.

That cold galv spray is good in my experience tho. 1 coat sprayed straight onto a weld it stayed completely rust free.
 
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