tyke100 · Jul 9, 2020

I changed the abs sensor today. - came up the other day as fault.
So by looking under the car it looked like a wedged in abs sensor.lead.
Today dismantled it after the new one arrived and figured out someone must have changed the hub.
The not working speed sensor is in the hub.
There is a spigot ring on the inside on the axle with a cut of abs sensor.

I taken that out as that is the one I got for the p38.
Put it in.reset the fault with hawkeye and seems to work.

Just like to know if that hub is the right one or from another model?

tyke100 · Jul 9, 2020

That is where the original abs sensor was and the new being fit in now.

RangeRoller dt · Jul 9, 2020

ATWB5063
Disco 2 hub with bearing and sensor inc.

Not sure on the ‘M’

tyke100 · Jul 9, 2020

RangeRoller dt said:
ATWB5063
Disco 2 hub with bearing and sensor inc.

Not sure on the ‘M’

Thanks. I thought is not for the p38. The other looks different. Lol.

Dos it matter?

I put the abs in the right slot instead the hub.

RangeRoller dt · Jul 9, 2020

Lots of D2 parts fit your P38.
They use the same tyre air for instance
M may indicate something different, try asking in Disco section?

I’d check with Wammers if they are compatible but most likely in this case. I would prefer them in pairs myself but that may be my green oval syndrome itching

tyke100 · Jul 9, 2020

Cool
Thanks. Well as long as it is save and the abs light isnt coming up I'm ok with it. Lol.
Evtl check the other one and may replace for one too then.

Hawkey didnt find any issues and test drive was fine.

tomcat59alan · Jul 10, 2020

Looks right to me ,the reluctor ring is on the drive shaft / c.v. joint not on the hub.

tyke100 · Jul 10, 2020

Well. Did another drive today. Since abs sensor is in.
Now it starts by hard breaking showing abs and breaklight warning for a second.
But only had abs kicking in down hill in traffic twice. By slow speed.

Guessing I have to check this accumulator thing next.
Good job I have access to a 200 bat pressarure tester.
I believe the accumulator is 80 bar if anyone could confirm that?

( dont.like buying something.i may dont need especially if it's a so called service part over 130 quit. )

kds · Jul 10, 2020

Sorry but your pic in post 2 just doesnt look right to me, abs sensor should sit in a metal bush/copper sleeve thing that looks more like a rubber sleeve to me, you better have another look at abs sensors not the accumulator, just my thoughts.

tyke100 · Jul 10, 2020

That's where the original abs sensor was before it was cut of. That's where I put the new sensor back in

It is a copper sleeve

kds · Jul 10, 2020

tyke100 said:
That's where the original abs sensor was before it was cut of. That's where I put the new sensor back in

It is a copper sleeve

Fair enough, still think its abs sensor problem not accumulator but could be wrong herindoors often tells me I am !

tyke100 · Jul 10, 2020

Lol.
No problem.
It needs new pads on the rear. They nearly dead so changing them next and see how it goes.
But still making a pressure check on that accumulator. Just in case and to rule it out.

Hawkeye didnt give any fault codes on that symptom so it 100 percent sure.

All I got is from checking on internet what others encountered on that symptom.still hope it's not that thing.
Its quiet expensive for something I tried to avoid . Lol. ( meaning this stupid abs stuff. )

brianp38dse · Jul 10, 2020

Where is the shroud bit that covers the abs ring and has the hole for the sensor

tomcat59alan · Jul 11, 2020

brianp38dse said:
Where is the shroud bit that covers the abs ring and has the hole for the sensor

That's right, I elongated the hole in the shroud so if I ever have to take the hub off again the sensor can stay inplace .I had to wreck my old ones to get the hubs off to replace the bearings.is the sensor fully home? Do you have any play in the wheel bearings ? Both can bring the Abs light on.

tyke100 · Jul 13, 2020

it seems to work now. well, kind off. the only time i have the red and abs light coming on when im driving for a while and tip tje breaks in slow traffic a lot.
or when i go in reverse. the abs comes straight on. - the light . not abs shuttering on the wheels.
but after switching the car of and on its gone.

trying to get this accumulator tested. not fancy to spend 140 on such a so called servicable part.
sorry if its servicable it should be decant priced like pads and discs.
i get the whole bloody set - discs and pads cheaper.

maybe even go and get a couple from a scrapyard if i need one.

( best would be disable the whole **** abs system and not bother with it. lol )

brianp38dse · Jul 13, 2020

Check your brake light switch on the peddle is set correctly as too Rave, you Have to push down the peddle pull out the plunger then let the peddle up and it will set the distance.

Datatek · Jul 14, 2020

tyke100 said:
it seems to work now. well, kind off. the only time i have the red and abs light coming on when im driving for a while and tip tje breaks in slow traffic a lot.
or when i go in reverse. the abs comes straight on. - the light . not abs shuttering on the wheels.
but after switching the car of and on its gone.

trying to get this accumulator tested. not fancy to spend 140 on such a so called servicable part.
sorry if its servicable it should be decant priced like pads and discs.
i get the whole bloody set - discs and pads cheaper.

maybe even go and get a couple from a scrapyard if i need one.

( best would be disable the whole **** abs system and not bother with it. lol )

I paid about £80 from Island 4 x 4 for a new accumulator at the back end of last year.
The accumulator is needed for the brakes, never mind ABS/TC, if the accumulator is OK you should be able to press the brake peddle between 3 and 5 times before the pump runs again. If the pump runs every time you press the break peddle, then the accumulator is duff.

Bagshot · Jul 14, 2020

tyke100 said:
it seems to work now. well, kind off. the only time i have the red and abs light coming on when im driving for a while and tip tje breaks in slow traffic a lot.
or when i go in reverse. the abs comes straight on. - the light . not abs shuttering on the wheels.
but after switching the car of and on its gone.

trying to get this accumulator tested. not fancy to spend 140 on such a so called servicable part.
sorry if its servicable it should be decant priced like pads and discs.
i get the whole bloody set - discs and pads cheaper.

maybe even go and get a couple from a scrapyard if i need one.

( best would be disable the whole **** abs system and not bother with it. lol )

Don't try a second hand accumulator. Anything in a scrap yard or laid up for any length of time, the accumulator is usually the first thing that's had it ( unless there is a new receipt sellotaped to the steering wheel ..!!!)
Mine was about £80-£90. Well worth the peace of mind.

Rubberknees · Jul 14, 2020

Bagshot said:
Don't try a second hand accumulator. Anything in a scrap yard or laid up for any length of time, the accumulator is usually the first thing that's had it ( unless there is a new receipt sellotaped to the steering wheel ..!!!)
Mine was about £80-£90. Well worth the peace of mind.

Totally agree your life is worth much more than £90

Mark Piercy · Jul 14, 2020

Datatek said:
I paid about £80 from Island 4 x 4 for a new accumulator at the back end of last year.
The accumulator is needed for the brakes, never mind ABS/TC, if the accumulator is OK you should be able to press the brake peddle between 3 and 5 times before the pump runs again. If the pump runs every time you press the break peddle, then the accumulator is duff.

+1 I agree with the man above!!

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