Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me.

I bought a Freelander about two months ago and not had any major problems with it.

The car over the last couple of weeks has been cutting out just after starting and I've had to depress the clutch and give it a little light throttle initially.

However, if I drive it straight away, the engine is cutting out when I stop at traffic lights and road junctions. After a couple of minutes the car is okay. The lights sometimes flicker a little bit when started and if I turn on the interior light, this can cause a slight flicker of the headlights.

It's almost as if the battery is weak initially and needs the engine running for a minute or two to recover.

The car can sound a little rough at times when idling but it is 12-13 years old.

Given that engine is cutting out after starting, does that indicate a battery problem?

Thanks.

The battery is only used to start the car, once started the alternator provides all the electrical power. Put a multi meter across it when the engine is running to see what volts it's putting out.

Is your car petrol or diesel?

You may have an electrical issue, but if the engine is cutting out when cold, but not when its warmed up a bit, it sounds like a temperature sensor or bypass valve to me - might also explain rough idle - if its better when warm.

Hello,

Everything said above is spot on..

Another thing to check (although probably not directly related, but a good idea to do anyway) is the engine earthing.

A good connection here is essential to allow the starter motor to draw its proper operating current from the battery. A higher resistance than optimal connection can cause symptoms of a failing battery.. (engine turns over poorly once or twice, then the starter solenoid "clicks" repeatedly). This can also affect the maximum charging current available from the alternator to the battery.

Just unbolt the engine earth (the heavy cable that runs from the battery to the block) from the block, clean the ring terminal and refit. I use a little copperslip on the ring before refitting.

If you haven't already done so, ensure that the battery connections are clean and sound. Unbolt, clean and refit. For safety reasons, only unbolt the +ve after the -ve has been removed. (shorting the +ve to earth with a spanner is **not** a good idea!!).
Smear the terminals with a little vaseline or similar to stop corrosion.

Don't overtighten the terminals on refitting.. just enough so that the connections are sound. If the terminals will not grip properly (due to having been overtightened, or are slack due to wear) then obtain a little bit of lead sheet (scrounge some from a roofer etc. ask for an offcut of lead flashing. I keep some in the toolbox.)

An offcut of copper pipe will do at a pinch. Cut a small strip (approx 5mm x 10mm or so). You may have to reduce the thickness of lead sheet by hammering it.
Use the metal between the clamp and the battery terminal post to "take up" the slack.

It's a good idea to do all of this, as "niggles" here can actually cause longer term problems..
Typical things include: alternator output voltage regulation stress.. this can reduce diode pack life. Also a potentially increased risk to the vehicle's electronic systems when jump starting...

Bodge99.