P

P38Al

Member
Hi all, Just recently my P38 auto diesel engine has stalled and all electrical items such as headlamps etc switch off for a split second before coming back on again. As soon as I put it into neutral and turn the starter it springs back into life. I've have a diagnostic check done which showed no problems, all battery leads are tight and clean, battery is secured properly etc. Any one got any ideas please ?
 
Check the earth connection to the BeCM under the drivers seat...

yer never know.....
 
There's a thick brown/pink cable and brown/green cable both are tight and look clean. Also just checked the main + red lead into under bonnet fuse box, that looks good too.
 
Not sure on the P38, but the Classics had a habit of shorting out from either the Gear Selector Cable or the Handbrake Cable against the gearbox housing(?)...

Anyone know if the P38 suffers from similar?
 
Fuse box connection from the battery, fuse box itself, corrosion inside the plastic sleeve of the battery wires, all common problems.
 
I thought I'd cured the problem after cleaning all the earths and positive to the starter and fuse box but it's just happened again, I was driving at about 30mph when the engine died , radio and fans etc stopped. It had been ok all week. Was thinking it could be the ignition switch but the headlamps go out too and they work independantly. Any ideas please gents?
 
So when it's dead so to speak every think
Completely dead even Interior light when you open the door to get out?? And what brings the power back you switching on off ignition???
 
Sounds like the 12v terminal in the fuse box has probably come loose.May have started to tear away from the board.
 
I've just sorted two range rovers out with this very problem.

You need to check the battery is ok & the integrity of the alternator.
Check the under bonnet fuse box isn't overheating & causing a split second shutdown.

I solved both the range rover problems by replacing the becm in both of them. The fault in these two was the CPU.
 
Hi defenderTD1, the power comes back in a split second, so all I have to do is move the gear lever from drive to park , turn the key and she's up and running again.
 
P38Al said:
Hi defenderTD1, the power comes back in a split second, so all I have to do is move the gear lever from drive to park , turn the key and she's up and running again.
Click to expand...

Still say corroded cable, loose connection or fuse box.
 
P38Al said:
Hi defenderTD1, the power comes back in a split second, so all I have to do is move the gear lever from drive to park , turn the key and she's up and running again.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying I'd take ricks advise, he's the man for electrical problems look like his come across this before by the sounds of it give him a pm for some advice :)
 
Thanks for the advice gents. It's behaved itself all afternoon which is good as I had to retrieve a friends trailer from the roadside after his disco auto gearbox cooler pipe fractured. I'll take another look at the fusebox and leads tomorrow and report back.
 
Give the main 12V feed to the fuse box a good wiggle. If the connection to the fuse box is suspect you will quickly confirm it.
 
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