How far did you back off from the bottom of each injector's travel? Various people on here (including Ratty) seem to recommend one turn but the man at the Land Rover garage I use says two turns. I dunno if it makes a difference to the house, but mine are on one turn at the moment.
When I first started doing it I thought you needed one turn of clearance at the top of the travel, a bit like doing valves. I did a couple and was a bit puzzled about how loose and rattly everything seemed to have become. Surely that couldn't be right? Fortunately I re-read the instructions before trying to start the engine.
When I first started doing it I thought you needed one turn of clearance at the top of the travel, a bit like doing valves. I did a couple and was a bit puzzled about how loose and rattly everything seemed to have become. Surely that couldn't be right? Fortunately I re-read the instructions before trying to start the engine.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
one turn is right, no free play and you run risk of injector plunger bottoming , excess reduces performance of injector
Can I come in on this one please? Should the injector be full of fuel or empty? Surely if there's fuel in it you would not get it " bottoming out"!
Something else that I don't really understand: the injector plunger is pushed down and would deliver a full shot of fuel except that a solenoid opens and "leaks back" any over fuel. But my question is how is the engine stopped? Cutting power to the solenoid would surly cause it to run on as it would continue to fuels?
Something else that I don't really understand: the injector plunger is pushed down and would deliver a full shot of fuel except that a solenoid opens and "leaks back" any over fuel. But my question is how is the engine stopped? Cutting power to the solenoid would surly cause it to run on as it would continue to fuels?
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Even though I love finding out how and why things work, I probably wouldnt overthink this one.
The book says "screw down until plunger bottoms out then back a full turn", good enough for me, although I have postulated about backing of the screw 1.5 or 2 turns.
I guess with ignition off the solenoid will allow all the flow to bypass, so it will def bottom out.
If I get a min Ill read up on the fuel system again and come back with why the engine stops!
But would assume its because the ECU simply stops telling the EUI,s (injectors) to stop "firing"!
Mark
The book says "screw down until plunger bottoms out then back a full turn", good enough for me, although I have postulated about backing of the screw 1.5 or 2 turns.
I guess with ignition off the solenoid will allow all the flow to bypass, so it will def bottom out.
If I get a min Ill read up on the fuel system again and come back with why the engine stops!
But would assume its because the ECU simply stops telling the EUI,s (injectors) to stop "firing"!
Mark
markomate2
Well-Known Member
If you want to know more about the EUI or PD or Unit Injector systems, have a read of this:
http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf
Its actually about VW PD system but basically its how the LR system works
Mark
http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf
Its actually about VW PD system but basically its how the LR system works
Mark
Fascinating article, I do like to know the theory behind anything that I'm working on. Thanks for that Mark.
Back to my troubles; tried to check/reset the injector gaps but was unable to get the fan off! Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can hold the pulley, yes I've tried a smart clout with a hammer, which used to work on the 300tdi engine. Yes I did work it out that this fan is on a right hand thread.
I did take off the rocker cover to find that there seem to be a mix of injector rockers and injectors. I wonder if someone can cast light on why this is.
c
CYLINDER ROCKER INJECTOR
1 V3993 W5 BMGFK 1
2 V3103 E6 NCGLG 3
3 V3093 E6 LFGMK 3
4 V3103 E6 LHLLH 4
5 V3093 W5 LCCBH 3
That took some doing, you can't set "tabs" on a tablet, not that I've found anyway!
Again I'd be grateful for any enlightenment.
Mac.
Back to my troubles; tried to check/reset the injector gaps but was unable to get the fan off! Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can hold the pulley, yes I've tried a smart clout with a hammer, which used to work on the 300tdi engine. Yes I did work it out that this fan is on a right hand thread.
I did take off the rocker cover to find that there seem to be a mix of injector rockers and injectors. I wonder if someone can cast light on why this is.
c
CYLINDER ROCKER INJECTOR
1 V3993 W5 BMGFK 1
2 V3103 E6 NCGLG 3
3 V3093 E6 LFGMK 3
4 V3103 E6 LHLLH 4
5 V3093 W5 LCCBH 3
That took some doing, you can't set "tabs" on a tablet, not that I've found anyway!
Again I'd be grateful for any enlightenment.
Mac.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Hi Mac
Thanks glad you enjoyed the read!
No probs with different codes on the injectors, thats all normal. the five letter code for each injector, BMGFK etc, is programmed into the ECU when they are installed.
The code is generated when the injectors are calibrated, its to tell the ECU each of the injectors "characteristics" so it can fine tune the injection process.
As long as no body has taken them out and mixed them up they should be ok. If they have been mixed up its no a big problem but you will need a Nanocom etc to propgram the ECU again.
I managed to turn my engine over by pressing down on the belt and gently easing it over, but mine doesnt have A/C or ACE.
You can pick up the tool to hold the fan on Ebay or other places, they are quite cheap.
I wouldnt recommend thumping the nut.
Others here may have some better ways of turning it over with the fan still on.
Mark
Thanks glad you enjoyed the read!
No probs with different codes on the injectors, thats all normal. the five letter code for each injector, BMGFK etc, is programmed into the ECU when they are installed.
The code is generated when the injectors are calibrated, its to tell the ECU each of the injectors "characteristics" so it can fine tune the injection process.
As long as no body has taken them out and mixed them up they should be ok. If they have been mixed up its no a big problem but you will need a Nanocom etc to propgram the ECU again.
I managed to turn my engine over by pressing down on the belt and gently easing it over, but mine doesnt have A/C or ACE.
You can pick up the tool to hold the fan on Ebay or other places, they are quite cheap.
I wouldnt recommend thumping the nut.
Others here may have some better ways of turning it over with the fan still on.
Mark
Thanks for your teply Mark, still not able to undo fan shaft or turn over engine, could you please ley me know the name of the tool to which you refer? Its of course the pulley that needs to be held . I might be able to get out two of the bolts holding the pulley to the shaft and then hold it still with a bar bolted under them. Again my thanks.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Think this is the one I bought.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TD5-V8-vi...ry-defender-/151843236678?hash=item235a8feb46
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TD5-V8-vi...ry-defender-/151843236678?hash=item235a8feb46
Back to you on this one Mark:
Bought the tool that you recommend and reset the injectors, they were all out about 4 turns! Now correctly set at one turn it's a different engine though still very rough but lots more go.
You my find interesting a "utube" video: type in "Td5" and you should see an animated graphic of the engine running, complete with the pre injection.
And now for tonight's main question: I've just lashed out one the Lynx unit! Mad I know but determined to get to the bottom of this! Does anybody know at what point and where does one enter the "unlock code" and does the unit need to be plugged into the car? By the time I started to play and got the code the help line had closed down for the weekend! These people should try farming!
By the way I'd be happy to "play" with it for anybody near or on my way to Oxford.
Bought the tool that you recommend and reset the injectors, they were all out about 4 turns! Now correctly set at one turn it's a different engine though still very rough but lots more go.
You my find interesting a "utube" video: type in "Td5" and you should see an animated graphic of the engine running, complete with the pre injection.
And now for tonight's main question: I've just lashed out one the Lynx unit! Mad I know but determined to get to the bottom of this! Does anybody know at what point and where does one enter the "unlock code" and does the unit need to be plugged into the car? By the time I started to play and got the code the help line had closed down for the weekend! These people should try farming!
By the way I'd be happy to "play" with it for anybody near or on my way to Oxford.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Sorry to jump in but something I found useful, on the front of the camshaft there are some lines marked each one is numbered 1 to 5 they line up with the edge of the casing, when each mark is in line with the casing the corresponding rocker is at its bottom point.
This is useful: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html
Saves some guessing.
This is useful: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html
Saves some guessing.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Struggled to find this and I did not have any pictures of my own but managed to find a link for a thread on this, if you look on here ther is a picture posted on one of the replies.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-timing-marks.203615/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-timing-marks.203615/
