I have had my freelander td4 for a year now.

So far I have replaced the starter motor, the alternator, the battery, the rear diff mounts, the rear brakes, all the brake pipes, the clutch, the master and slave cylinder (twice), and just fixed the rear cracking noise!

I'm just waiting for the VCU and IRD to pack up lol.

Do I keep going and spend more money on it (kitting it out, lift, new wheels and tyres etc), or do I trade it in for a disco 2? (which will probably end up being a money pit aswell).

I don't know what to do, I've spent just as much fixing it as I spent buying it, and I haven't even started to MOD it yet

In in the same boat as you mine is turning into a money pit too, I have replaced vcu rear diff mounts clutch and bearing battery driver window mechanism, it now needs another vcu as the used one I bought is worse than the old one don't use micks4x4 bits on ebay. I planned to mod mine and started to build the parts but I'm constantly worried it's going to brake something else. I had a rear wheel come loose over the weekend

Every component of every car has it's lifespan. Once the part is used up, it needs to be replaced. But I am not telling you anything new.

Once you have all "consumables" replaced, it should be as good as new. There is no way around it. Every other used LR you pick up, will be the same. The only anomally I see, is replacement of the master and slave twice. That should not happen. But I know how it can (substandard parts and/or mistakes on install?).

Generally,....people don't get rid of a "perfectly good vehicle", and trade/sell to get out of the repairs they don't want to do. There ARE few exceptions,.....when people "get bored", and want something "new". In your case, I would make a plan. How will the thing be used? What's next on the replacement schedule? How long some of the major components will last, and what's it going to cost?

At least with this one, you are already "in it", and can write off some of the stuff you replaced,....the "new" Disco will be totally unknown (to you), and you'll have to start over.

The problem is, when replacing parts like the VCU, you won't ever recoup that money 'cos it should be there, has to be there, and needs to work .. it's not an 'added value' part!!

Funily enough, we're looking for a FL1 right now 'cos our lasses Mondeo is 'going' this way .. so I'm watching a lot of Freelander threads right now ..

The clutch, the brakes, the brake pipes and the battery are to some extent consumables or age related, you would have that with any car. You know now that those components are sorted and not likely to go wrong again. If your IRD and VCU are in good condition and you have the correct tyre set-up, there is no reason to expect that they will suddenly "entertain" you. I would be inclined to keep it - you just might get the full value from your investment.

It's a question of luck but I would have thought a D2 would be more likely to be a money pit as they are more complex and less of them are being broken to second hand parts availability isn't quite as good as the FL.

RO51 said:

In in the same boat as you mine is turning into a money pit too, I have replaced vcu rear diff mounts clutch and bearing battery driver window mechanism, it now needs another vcu as the used one I bought is worse than the old one don't use micks4x4 bits on ebay. I planned to mod mine and started to build the parts but I'm constantly worried it's going to brake something else. I had a rear wheel come loose over the weekend

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That's exactly one of the problems I tried to outline above. Buying substandard parts. Cheap is not always good, and the expensive is not always better. There are two ways to go about it. Gamble and buy cheap/used part, or go with OEM from other than the official dealer. I buy OEM from a dealer in the States (not local to me), which sells on line for about 60 cents on the dollar in comparison to the local dealers (about 40% discount, without tax). If I order over certain amount, I get free shipping too.
Going for used is OK, but checking (and double checking!) sellers feedback is a must. I had a need for a fuel pump on my bike recently, and bought OEM used from some breaker (on Ebay). Part came, was worse than the one I was taking out, and ended up returning it (cost me the return postage), and buying new OEM. IF I bought new OEM (also on Ebay) it would've been cheaper, and faster. Live and learn.

I'll never buy used parts on Ebay again. It's tempting, but why gamble?

I buy OEM parts only but not from a main dealer.

Now you have done this work i would keep it, none of that is particularly scary or unusual stuff. You need a decent base vehicle before you mod it.

If it was me i would keep it, get it to a good mechanical standard and then mod it that way you know you got a decent motor.

You could end up spending the same again on a D2 before modding it and always be chasing your tail.

Stick with the FL imo

Thanks for the comments people, i'm trying to reply to you all

@RO51

a wheel fell off?? how?

I don't think I would risk buying a VCU off ebay, or anything expensive / mechanical anyway (I'm not too keen on online buying).

@Danielsand

I understand what your saying and I was thinking the same thing as I've already replaced a lot of things. The master and slave cylinder was a faulty part from the manufacturer, it decided to burst 3 months after fitting, it was under warranty and got a new 1 for free.

The next things that will need replacing will either be the VCU or IRD, but so far (touch wood) they are both ok. Maybe some bearings somewhere or bushes will go before them.

@Paul D

Its a good car, I love driving it, its very comfortable and its good for green lanes too, I just wasn't expecting to fix as much as I had. It was used by an old couple for a fair few years to tow a caravan so spent a lot of time sat on damp grass which has corroded some of the underneath (like all the break pipes).

If you know what you're looking for you should be able to get a fairly decent 1 quite cheap

@Tannaton

I didn't realise the front and rear tyres needed to be the same when I bought it, they are different makes but the same sizes. I just hope the VCU and IRD can hold out until I can buy some new winter tyres and 16" wheels

flat said:

I buy OEM parts only but not from a main dealer.

Now you have done this work i would keep it, none of that is particularly scary or unusual stuff. You need a decent base vehicle before you mod it.

If it was me i would keep it, get it to a good mechanical standard and then mod it that way you know you got a decent motor.

You could end up spending the same again on a D2 before modding it and always be chasing your tail.

Stick with the FL imo

Click to expand...

This is what I'm thinking, the D2 could probably end up more of a money pit lol

It didn't fall off just came loose for no apparent reason it gave a noise just like a collapsed wheel bearing, don't get me wrong it's a great car to be in I'm just paranoid after spending the money on a car with a full service history and what appears to be well looked after I'm surprised by how much tlc it still needs. I bought a used vcu because I couldn't afford a new one at the time. It was tested using the timed weighted bar test and passed this test but I wasn't there to see it. The seller's feed back was 100% and seemed legitimate.
I guess I see and hear a lot of bad stuff to do with the hippo and it's always getting me on edge with the car, I'm from a solid axle transfer box background and the freelander is something far away from my normal drive

RO51 said:

It didn't fall off just came loose for no apparent reason it gave a noise just like a collapsed wheel bearing, don't get me wrong it's a great car to be in I'm just paranoid after spending the money on a car with a full service history and what appears to be well looked after I'm surprised by how much tlc it still needs. I bought a used vcu because I couldn't afford a new one at the time. It was tested using the timed weighted bar test and passed this test but I wasn't there to see it. The seller's feed back was 100% and seemed legitimate.
I guess I see and hear a lot of bad stuff to do with the hippo and it's always getting me on edge with the car, I'm from a solid axle transfer box background and the freelander is something far away from my normal drive

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I like the car too, but not what I'm used too either, I from a solid axle background and I feel the same as you.

sorry you got a bad VCU, there is a company that everyone mentions on here that are really good, but I can't remember what they are called off hand

Since I joined this forum, I realized how much difference there is between owning a car in the UK vs. SoCal. I lived in UK (Germany, Italy, etc.), but it was 14-15 years ago, and some stuff I just "forgot". Like rust for example. A lot of you talk about the rust (OP mentioned rusted brake lines), and I saw MANY pictures on this forum showing rusty undercarriage (especially on Tratters!).

How lucky we are over here in the Southwest. If one doesn't live on the ocean, and doesn't drive in the surf, our cars can last "forever" in theory. The ONLY thing that can not be "fixed" on any car, is rust. You can cut, grind, weld, and whatever else, but it always comes back.

My wife's Hippo is 02, and not a spec of rust anywhere. Like new underneath. And mechanical parts can be replaced indefinitely. Another "lucky break" is that locals are SCARED of these cars (remember, average American knows how to put gas in the car, and drives it until the major repair is needed, and gets rid of it) and they are CHEAP. You can buy TWO running Hippos for the price of one somewhat comparable "crossover".

Sourcing parts CAN be a problem (not too many of them left in use), and dealers generally don't stock them, but it's worth it. ANY used vehicle comes with "history", and a list of needed repairs, but with the good repair manual, and the support/combined knowledge of the people on this forum, there is NOTHING that can not be sorted out.

Danielsand said:

Since I joined this forum, I realized how much difference there is between owning a car in the UK vs. SoCal. I lived in UK (Germany, Italy, etc.), but it was 14-15 years ago, and some stuff I just "forgot". Like rust for example. A lot of you talk about the rust (OP mentioned rusted brake lines), and I saw MANY pictures on this forum showing rusty undercarriage (especially on Tratters!).

How lucky we are over here in the Southwest. If one doesn't live on the ocean, and doesn't drive in the surf, our cars can last "forever" in theory. The ONLY thing that can not be "fixed" on any car, is rust. You can cut, grind, weld, and whatever else, but it always comes back.

My wife's Hippo is 02, and not a spec of rust anywhere. Like new underneath. And mechanical parts can be replaced indefinitely. Another "lucky break" is that locals are SCARED of these cars (remember, average American knows how to put gas in the car, and drives it until the major repair is needed, and gets rid of it) and they are CHEAP. You can buy TWO running Hippos for the price of one somewhat comparable "crossover".

Sourcing parts CAN be a problem (not too many of them left in use), and dealers generally don't stock them, but it's worth it. ANY used vehicle comes with "history", and a list of needed repairs, but with the good repair manual, and the support/combined knowledge of the people on this forum, there is NOTHING that can not be sorted out.

Click to expand...

My Hippo is 02, you're lucky yours has no rust. Mine was used by a couple for a few years to tow their caravan and it spent most of its life of damp grass, there's a lot of surface rust on the underneath, the brakes lines had perished, and there's a few little holes in some not so important things.

I've found this forum so usefull, I'm trying to put back it what I have got out of it, it has saved me a lot of money and time

Thanks LandyZone!!

That company is bell engineering lol I will get one if needed but it's money I still have the first one I removed so I'm going to try and refurb that using the vcu thread on here as a guide it seems straight forward enough just a little time consuming

RO51 said:

That company is bell engineering lol I will get one if needed but it's money I still have the first one I removed so I'm going to try and refurb that using the vcu thread on here as a guide it seems straight forward enough just a little time consuming

Click to expand...

lol, yeh thats the 1. I'm tempted to buy a VCU and put it on (just in case), but again its more money I'm having to spend, should probably go the distance and replace the IRD and rear diff at the same time!

Danielsand said:

Every component of every car has it's lifespan. Once the part is used up, it needs to be replaced. But I am not telling you anything new.

Once you have all "consumables" replaced, it should be as good as new. There is no way around it. Every other used LR you pick up, will be the same. The only anomally I see, is replacement of the master and slave twice. That should not happen. But I know how it can (substandard parts and/or mistakes on install?).

Generally,....people don't get rid of a "perfectly good vehicle", and trade/sell to get out of the repairs they don't want to do. There ARE few exceptions,.....when people "get bored", and want something "new". In your case, I would make a plan. How will the thing be used? What's next on the replacement schedule? How long some of the major components will last, and what's it going to cost?

At least with this one, you are already "in it", and can write off some of the stuff you replaced,....the "new" Disco will be totally unknown (to you), and you'll have to start over.

Click to expand...

Going back to your "List"

I need 4 new tyres, and thinking of replacing the VCU, and maybe even the IRD. I have just had another good look underneath only to find that the rear diff appears to have old oil on the near side, maybe a bearing has gone, so it could also be worth replacing the rear difff (or getting it fixed).

New Tyres and wheels: £400-£500
VCU: £200
IRD: £615
Rear Diff: £350

Total: £1665

I could buy a Disco 2 for that, but then spend another £1500 fixing it aswell

1750 was my purchase price and I probably have spent another 600 since on parts and bits and bobs I did the clutch and vcu myself so no labour charges or I would.have sold it

RO51 said:

1750 was my purchase price and I probably have spent another 600 since on parts and bits and bobs I did the clutch and vcu myself so no labour charges or I would.have sold it

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that's roughly what I paid to buy mine, but have spent that again fixing it (that also includes a full service too).

With the above replacements I'll be around the £5k mark ...

NDavies said:

that's roughly what I paid to buy mine, but have spent that again fixing it (that also includes a full service too).

With the above replacements I'll be around the £5k mark ...

Click to expand...

I know I could have had a lovely 300tdi disco for the money lol stronger more comfortable and miles better off road..... But I guess I like a challenge the worst part is I sold my series 3 to buy the freelander and swapped my disco for the series

I'm not going to tell you something new. You know that transportation costs money (there is no "free ride", no matter what "they" tell you!).

It all comes down to math, and in the case of used vehicles, with a bit of gamble. If you look up a new vehicle cost (probably financed), multiply the monthly payments for the duration of the manufacturers warranty (thinking most people that want "worry free" motoring will dump the car once it's out of warranty), divide the depreciation in the monthly "loss of value", and you will come to the actual cost of having that car. Let's not talk about the difference in insurance costs in new vs. used at this time.

For any decent car, this cost comes to about 6-1000 US per month (over here). Most cars will drop 50-60% of the purchase price by the time manufacturers warranty is up. And why the manufacturers limit the warranty? They KNOW almost to the mile, what will have to be done on the car almost immediately after the warranty is done! And you keep paying, and paying. Then they make the cars almost impossible to DIY, create some parts/components that are "dealer only" items, and they have you "coming and going". If not YOU, ....the next owner that buys "preowned - certified" whatever.

So you go and buy a Hippo for 2K from the original owner. And you KNOW it will need something right away, and more to come as the things age. You do the math on that, and I guarantee you, the monthly expense for this will be less than 30% of the expense for the new vehicle. Even less if you can DIY. CHEAP transportation. And if you like to solve problems, and turn the wrench, ....you got it made!

Buying a new vehicle is a financial trap. Unless,......one buys something offered at 0%APR, and plans to keep the thing for a VERY LONG time (to counter depriciation). That's the ONLY car loan worth signing for. Even if you can pay cash for the vehicle easily. You keep the cash earning interest for you in your portfolio, and pay the car company monthly payments.

In your case,......5K in the Hippo seems too much, but how much use will you get out of it? 3 years? If so, it will cost you less than 140 a month. What can you buy out there (problem free!) for that? Nothing. There is no car out there with "bumper to bumper" warranty for 140 quid a month, is it? And let's say your Hippo needs MORE stuff in the next three years. The total is approaching 200 quid a month now. Still CHEAP.

Given,.....not everyone out there is a car enthusiast, and most people are too busy with jobs, kids, and the life in general. These people have to buy a new vehicle, pay through the nose, and have "everything covered". If your life demands that, the cheapest way is to register the new car into your company name (for the business owners), and write off all the costs associated with the ownership as a business expense. I've been doing this for years.

In my five year old "company", I am the only "employee", but I pay myself a salary, and I write off every penny I spend in the course of doing business, to include almost all bar/restaurant checks (client entertainment), gas (to-from work, traveling on business), repairs on the "company vehicle", and even some "business clothes". If I go out of state for a vacation, I make sure I have at least one legitimate business meeting while over there, etc.

"They" have many ways of "sticking it" to you, but there ARE ways to counter it all, and prosper.