meego

meego

Well-Known Member
Being doing some work on the Disco lately and had it on the stands with axles hanging. Put it back on the road and low and behold.....Three Amigos. Diagnostic showed up Rear left sensor electrical failure. I thought I might have stretched the cable so put a new one on tonight. Lights went off briefly, ABS came on first, closely followed by the other two. Switched them off and cleared the fault but came on again. So....hub is solid with no play and thinking it could be shuttle valve. It's never been done. Any suggestions before I fork out on a valve before hub ??
 
If the hubs are lacking play and the shuttle has never been touched I'd go through the process of elimination.
 
On a side note. Seriously considering getting a Nanocom Evo. Hate having to rely on other folks kit.
 
In the absence of something like a Nanocom, I would be tempted to do the "Option-B" modification on the shuttle valve switch plate connector. It shouldn't cost any more than a couple of hours and a few bits of wire, Although it could cost about 40 quid if you decide to fit a new switch plate.
If, once you've done the mod the 3 amigos does go off then you have your answer, if they don't then you'll have to start looking elsewhere, such as hub sensors. If you do the mod correctly then it should have no effect on the handling or operation of the braking system.

Shuttle valve wiring.jpg
 

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brian47 said:
In the absence of something like a Nanocom, I would be tempted to do the "Option-B" modification on the shuttle valve switch plate connector. It shouldn't cost any more than a couple of hours and a few bits of wire, Although it could cost about 40 quid if you decide to fit a new switch plate.
If, once you've done the mod the 3 amigos does go off then you have your answer, if they don't then you'll have to start looking elsewhere, such as hub sensors. If you do the mod correctly then it should have no effect on the handling or operation of the braking system.

View attachment 150622
Click to expand...
Thanks for info, but I'm crap with anything like that. Electrical stuff is beyond me. I've ordered new shuttle valve for £35 and will see how that goes.
 
You are going to waste time and money on a shuttle valve kit.(Its rarely the shuttle switches that fail,its the copper track above them that cracks) Fault codes for wheel speed sensors may not be 100% accurate,but they put you in the right corner of the car.I would start by doing continuity for the left rear sensor at the ecu plug.Where did your replacement sensor come from ?
 
eightinavee said:
You are going to waste time and money on a shuttle valve kit.(Its rarely the shuttle switches that fail,its the copper track above them that cracks) Fault codes for wheel speed sensors may not be 100% accurate,but they put you in the right corner of the car.I would start by doing continuity for the left rear sensor at the ecu plug.Where did your replacement sensor come from ?
Click to expand...
This one
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover...peed-Sensor-/292577209329?txnId=1572285578019
As said before, I wouldn't know where to start with continuity testing etc
 
Last edited:
You know someone must have already done all this on mine as I have seen the green and yellow cut and another wire routed in.
Wondered what it was.
 
An unbranded sensor for £14... I wouldn't waste the effort of even taking it out of the box ! Get some help to do checking with a mutlimeter,or book it in with a decent independant. Adding cheap parts like that into the mix is only going to make the situation worse.
 
Update your location and you may find a helpful member local to you with a nanocom and/or knowledge to assist you but whilst we know nothing of your actual location you’re not going to get any offers of help..... ;);)
 
Just a thought. When diagnostic tool tells you "Rear Left Sensor Electrical Fault".....this is the near side wheel eh, as I have assumed ?? Not the rear left wheel looking from the front of the vehicle ??? :confused:
 
I always assume it is as if you are sat in the vehicle.

So would concur Rear left is nearside rear. If in doubt disconnect the sensor at the plug and check what readings you get.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I always assume it is as if you are sat in the vehicle.

So would concur Rear left is nearside rear. If in doubt disconnect the sensor at the plug and check what readings you get.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Dhoo....why didn’t I think of that. I’ll do it when my Nanocom comes. Ballsed it up and didn’t complete payment on order. Not getting posted till tomorrow now :oops:
 
Ok..New hub on, amigos switched off with Nanocom. ABS light only on now. No faults showing. Also found a small area today on the chassis that I went poking around in. Now it's a big hole that needs welding. Been Waxoiled regular too. I'm going to drop the tank now and do it right. Turning into an epic this is :(
 
It would be well worth clearing the faults again,even though none show.Its one of the oddities of DII Slabs systems that often they need their faults clearing twice to put all the warning lamps off.
Waxoil is rubbish now, once the welding is sorted out it may be time to try Dinitrol,but make sure its all clean and free of rust to start with. And use plenty of their cavity spray "ML" whilst you are at it.
 
eightinavee said:
It would be well worth clearing the faults again,even though none show.Its one of the oddities of DII Slabs systems that often they need their faults clearing twice to put all the warning lamps off.
Waxoil is rubbish now, once the welding is sorted out it may be time to try Dinitrol,but make sure its all clean and free of rust to start with. And use plenty of their cavity spray "ML" whilst you are at it.
Click to expand...
I did think of Dinitrol but have 20ltrs of Waxoyl sitting needs used up. I’m going to try it with a first coat well thinned down with white spirit so it soaks in. I think if it’s too heavy going on it just sits on top of any rust that still there.
 
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