mozz smith

mozz smith

Well-Known Member
:welcome2:hi lads im still struggling with this problem , had a problem last week with low ratio selectos i.e. accidently put car into low ratio and it wouldn't return to high on gear shift ,so changed the gear selector underneath the car and result it would switch over and back nicely ... !!!!!!! the problem I have as reported last week was the dah message is saying "select neutral" and wont disappear ????????????? I presume it has to be done by diagnostics kit ?????????? .. now ive noticed cos was out in the dark that the gear selector plate is flashing all the time , its flashing through all the gears d-3-2-1 etc etc but only on the high ratio side wich is normal driving whilst being in d= drive mode ..so anybody know ?????? how to stop this or does this have to be done through diagnostics ???????????? ive had enough just lately with the engine being re-built and spending a fortune now im getting worried ,,any help would be appreciated many thanxs MOZZ
 
Mozz I do remember reading somewhere that a part where the motor attaches if over tightend give trouble the bit where is located on the triangle spindle bit ....
 
Grit Valve said:
Mozz I do remember reading somewhere that a part where the motor attaches if over tightend give trouble the bit where is located on the triangle spindle bit ....
Click to expand...

support bracket on rear of motor you tighten 3 bolts forst then adjust bracket to siut
 
hi grit , thank you very much , very good informative lead , but , I don't have the problems of being stuck or having it go to low or high ratio !!!! ive basically took the old unit off and fitted a refurbed unit back on ,apparently it needed a good clean out og old dried up grease and dust then good stiff well packed grease and refit and presto works fine ,whirs into low clunk and beep and same into high , MY problem is that the dash message is stuck on saying "SELECT NEUTRAL" AND WHEN SELECTING gear i.e. drive on the stick then all the gears on gear plate i.e. d=3=2=1=etc are flashing ..so basically all I need to do is get rid of the message and hopefully all will be well ,,as my post #????? does it need to be done diagnostically or can I do it manually ??????? the info on rave is very scarce !!!!!!!! on remedying of this situation .... any ideas in that direction would be welcome ,, I have saved your lead from rangerovers.net and thanks again ..regards MOZZ
 
Hi Mozz. Shame you are still having problems. As you had the "Select Neutral" message 'prior' to us fitting the replacement ratio control motor I would suggest you fit a replacement Transfer box ECU as this may be the problem??. Its easy to do as its under the passenger seat and with the seat fully forward and raised easy to get at.

On pulling your old motor down it had hard grease lumps preventing the spindle going full travel. Will try and show a pic. It was exactly what prevented my own working. If you look at the right of the picture you can see where the drive spindle goes, it can only go on one way.



There are no fault codes created so diagnostics are unlikely to show much. As you get hi range when selecting high and low when selecting low it appears that the motor is doing its job?

Having looked at the workshop manual :
Ratio Control Motor - Removal
1. Raise vehicle on four post lift
2. Disconnect Battery earth (OK we had ignition off)
3. Disconnect temp sender
4. Disconnect motor multiplug
5. Remove 4 bolts securing motor to transfer gearbox
6. Remove motor.

Refit
7. Fit motor and engage to drive spindle
8. Tighten bolts to 10nm (7lbf.ft)
9. Connect motor and temp sensor
10. Connect battery
11. Lower vehicle.
 
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Diagnostics won't clear the dash message if its getting wrong info to the ecu.
The mechanism that switches the gearbox between High & Low is electric. Are the micro switch wires ok? Accessible under the H Gate cover.
Worth checking the ratio control motor which has corresponding switch states. You have to make sure the H Gate range selection matches the ratio control motor switch states beforte connecting the motor.
There is info in RAVE under the transfer box section. The switch states are in the RAVE electrics manual.
 
hi Derek . you should know my mate you sorted it so will take your advice and its in on Thursday for 500 ml oil change and filter so peter is gonna put it on diaganostics and also check the ecu !!!!! will let you know outcome on Friday also thanxs to kevwil for your imput .. did you get your parcel Derek ??????????? cheers lads will follow up on Friday big regards to all MOZZ:crazy_driver::crazy_driver::crazy_driver:
 
The D-3-2-1 lights flash as the transfer from HI to Low happens doesn't it?

If the motor is working, and the transfer is happening, then something is not letting the Gearbox ECU know that the transfer has happened.

Does sound like a duff ECU or connectors to the ECU are not working.
 
Sounds like the switch mechanism on the motor may be mistimed Moz, either that or the ECU is toast.
 
well lads , heres the update !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
just got the car back and after being charged £80.00 for 2 1/2 hours of investigation , im still no further forward !!!!!!! they said " weve never seen this problem before and have checked the low ratio switch and gear unit is working ok but is on checking the pins it is switching from low to high ???????????? but my problem of message on dash " SELECT NEUTZRAL " and the plate where gear lever that's still flashing through the gears indicators i.e. p rev neutral d 1 2 3 . so I asked about the ecu and said he didn't have time to check ?????????he said that's diagnostics check showed nothing ?????????? im getting fed up now ?????????? anyone tell me exactly where and wich e,c,u, is and ill do it myself !!!!!!! thank-you to those who have already posted with info because when I asked him where it was he relied " possibly under passenger seat as its nothing to do with the becm ... alas I shall NOT be visiting him again so would welcome as much info as possible as to resolve this thanks and kind regards lads MOZZ
 
mozz smith said:
well lads , heres the update !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
just got the car back and after being charged £80.00 for 2 1/2 hours of investigation , im still no further forward !!!!!!! they said " weve never seen this problem before and have checked the low ratio switch and gear unit is working ok but is on checking the pins it is switching from low to high ???????????? but my problem of message on dash " SELECT NEUTZRAL " and the plate where gear lever that's still flashing through the gears indicators i.e. p rev neutral d 1 2 3 . so I asked about the ecu and said he didn't have time to check ?????????he said that's diagnostics check showed nothing ?????????? im getting fed up now ?????????? anyone tell me exactly where and wich e,c,u, is and ill do it myself !!!!!!! thank-you to those who have already posted with info because when I asked him where it was he relied " possibly under passenger seat as its nothing to do with the becm ... alas I shall NOT be visiting him again so would welcome as much info as possible as to resolve this thanks and kind regards lads MOZZ
Click to expand...
ECU is under the passenger seat towards the rear Mozz. If the switches in the change motor are timed correctly and the micro switches on the gear lever are OK, then either the loom has meen damaged when the work was done or the ECU is toast. Dead easy to change the ECU and not expensive on Ebay.:)
 
AMR6459 should do it. Just Google that and see what comes up such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-THOR-AUTOMATIC-ECU-AMR-6459-/140603091932 at £60+ or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROV...59-BORG-WARNER-ECU-AUTO-BOX-ECU-/150900552981 at £19. Your friend in the trade is probably best bet???.

Also look at http://lrcat.com/40/4/49740 scroll down for a cut away view of the bracket and ECU positions.

Note: under the passenger seat are two ECU's the front one is the AUTO GEARBOX ECU and the back one (the one you need to change?) is the TRANSFER BOX ECU.
Good Luck

ps have pm'd you
 
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Hi Mozz,
This is located below the front LH seat and is identified from the other ECU's located under the seat by its single 36 pin harness connector.
A long shot would be to remove and give it a shake as often you may hear something rattling inside the effects of debris from dry joints. Rangerovers.net has some info on a simple voltage test to confirm if it is fecked. If i can find the link i will post it up. Good luck and pm if you need a replacement :)
 
hi datatek , your comments I.e. change motor are timed correctly have woke me up , !!!!! I know when the replacement switch was being fitted then the female fixed part had to be moved over slightly so the v part that inserts to it so it would go ion and allow to be fitted and bolted up so my question is can you explain about marrying the 2 parts upp so it all fits back together as you dismantle it comes apart easy ???????????? I can always ring you to explain it a bit more if neccacery ??????????? cheers mate at the moment I think that as it is in hi ratio driving wise that because we had to move on of the parts manually then its possible that electronically its not recognising the connection !!!!!! all wiring is perfect and has not been touched ,, so how do we resync the 2 parts as per original when we stripped it down ???????????? cheers mate awating your answer ,mozz
 
stopover said:
AMR6459 should do it. Just Google that and see what comes up such as RANGE ROVER P38 THOR AUTOMATIC ECU AMR 6459 | eBay at £60+ or RANGE ROVER P38 TRANSFER BOX ECU AMR6459 BORG WARNER ECU AUTO BOX ECU | eBay at £19. Your friend in the trade is probably best bet???.

Also look at Range Rover 1995 - RunOut / Body Electrics / Electronic Control Units / ECU-Gearbox & Transfer Box scroll down for a cut away view of the bracket and ECU positions.

Note: under the passenger seat are two ECU's the front one is the AUTO GEARBOX ECU and the back one (the one you need to change?) is the TRANSFER BOX ECU.
Good Luck

ps have pm'd you
Click to expand...


hi dek so glad you got it enjoy ,, anyway have a read what ive said to datatek cos I know that nothing else has been touched except moving that sprocket inside to line it back up when refitting the new unit ... let me know your suggestion or comment cos I know that the ecu and the other part are both ok im sure cos otherwise none of it would work ????????????????? cheers mozz
 
mozz smith said:
hi dek so glad you got it enjoy ,, anyway have a read what ive said to datatek cos I know that nothing else has been touched except moving that sprocket inside to line it back up when refitting the new unit ... let me know your suggestion or comment cos I know that the ecu and the other part are both ok im sure cos otherwise none of it would work ????????????????? cheers mozz
Click to expand...

Have you actually opened it up and checked it for burning? Just because everything else is working doesn't mean it isn't fecked. If not your wasting your time with other things if you haven't checked the simplest 5 minute task first.
 
Don't just change out parts, have the RAVE electrical diagram at hand.


Measure if the switches is in right position at the ecu cable end first then you know if it's the ecu or switches/connections.
If you get right positioning there its the ecu at fault, i have spare one from a 95 4.6 doing nothing special in my house, checked its for GEMS 4.6 no use to you
:)You can open and look at the MOSFETS for burning, nose good instrument here:rolleyes:



If you don't get right positioning the ecu is probably fine and you look "down stream" towards motor


Measure at the connection plug coming out of motor, if its fine its bad/dirty connection, clean connectcor (Or bad cable, not so likely), if its not you have either faulty microswitch or one needing a wee adjustment. (Fairly small tolerences you will see when getting transfer motor apart) I wouldn't rush into buying new motor but give switches a good going over, adjust them as needed and fill with grease so there isn't room for water/air. I might actually have some used microswitches doing nothing special in the garage:)
 
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stopover said:
AMR6459 should do it. Just Google that and see what comes up such as RANGE ROVER P38 THOR AUTOMATIC ECU AMR 6459 | eBay at £60+ or RANGE ROVER P38 TRANSFER BOX ECU AMR6459 BORG WARNER ECU AUTO BOX ECU | eBay at £19. Your friend in the trade is probably best bet???.

Also look at Range Rover 1995 - RunOut / Body Electrics / Electronic Control Units / ECU-Gearbox & Transfer Box scroll down for a cut away view of the bracket and ECU positions.

Note: under the passenger seat are two ECU's the front one is the AUTO GEARBOX ECU and the back one (the one you need to change?) is the TRANSFER BOX ECU.
Good Luck

ps have pm'd you
Click to expand...

Sorry mate, there a 3 ECU's under the seat, Auto, EAS and transfer.:)
 
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