3d-Ag3nt

Member
Hi guys,
Just bought my first LR '04 TD5.
Got myself a great deal from a family friend who kept it serviced, every 6 months to be precise and it's only done 110000, so I have myself a nice ride.
I plan to upgrade the 1.5 din stereo to a double din with as minimal/no modifications to the dash, I plan to document this in pictures and parts and to share the whole process (if this is something people would like to follow I'd appreciate the input, comments etc.
Anyways..... ▶️newbie right here◀️
 

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Is customary to put a few piccies (pics ;))
In your intro. for reference when you ask for help, when forum search works

110,000 is nothing for a looked after Disco TD5 so you’ll be with us for some time

Sharing threads of what you’ve learnt + pictures if possible helps a lot.
no doubt there will be p**s taking but it’s just fun,
the next person that comes along may have a laugh reading and glean useful knowledge/understanding

Welcome to the clan :)
 
Is customary to put a few piccies (pics ;))
In your intro. for reference when you ask for help, when forum search works

110,000 is nothing for a looked after Disco TD5 so you’ll be with us for some time

Welcome to the clan :)
Thanks for the welcome, I was very fortunate to find this one , I only have 1 small problem with it , which I have posted on another thread , and that's the fuel door , won't shut properly . I'll add more pics shortly . Thanks again
 
Nice selection of pics.

If that were mine 1st priority would be - in heat of summer get your head under that back end and make sure it’s protected
 
Nice selection of pics.

If that were mine 1st priority would be - in heat of summer get your head under that back end and make sure it’s protected
Can you elaborate, ? when you say protect..... You mean rust protect? Waxoyl? Or something else, ? This is my first land rover so any advice at all is very greatful. :)
 
D2 is prone to rust typically the back end chassis/arches. Some believe the metal used was made deliberately impure. Getting to it before any rot gets in there will save you a welding apprenticeship

Treatment depends on condition. By mid summer you will know a thing or two, just stick your head under take a look (and/or pic) just see what you are dealing with


Do you intend to spanner yourself or outsource any work?
 
D2 is prone to rust typically the back end chassis/arches. Some believe the metal used was made deliberately impure. Getting to it before any rot gets in there will save you a welding apprenticeship

Treatment depends on condition. By mid summer you will know a thing or two, just stick your head under take a look (and/or pic) just see what you are dealing with


Do you intend to spanner yourself or outsource any work?
Ah ok I see, I plan to do as much to it as I can regarding maintenance and repairs and in the next few months investing in a mig welder, "just in case"
I was hoping to blast the entire underside with pressure washer , wait for it to dry , and waxoyl the hell out of it .
 
At the moment it's very much like this under there ..... But I've been under there with torch and it's all solid , just covered in a "protective layer of mud :s
 

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Looks good from what I can tell. Don’t be too hasty wash it off and open it up to the elements this time of year. You may not need a welder if it’s good
 
So you reckon. Keep the mud there for now ( protect from elements) is that what you meant? or blast it off now ? I'm not sure I follow?
Thanks
 
Welcome!

You really need to do this on a warm day, 20 degrees+, I used Dinitrol on my chassis, they have separate products for external and inside chassis rails, and will need redoing every few years. Pressure wash underneath well, allow to dry for 24 hours, then neutralise any visible surface rust with a spray on rust converter first before the Dinitrol or Waxoyl application.

Can be a messy job but worth it in the long run!
 
Welcome!

You really need to do this on a warm day, 20 degrees+, I used Dinitrol on my chassis, they have separate products for external and inside chassis rails, and will need redoing every few years. Pressure wash underneath well, allow to dry for 24 hours, then neutralise any visible surface rust with a spray on rust converter first before the Dinitrol or Waxoyl application.

Can be a messy job but worth it in the long run!
Ok, noted.
Thanks for the advice , better buy some PPE!
 
Based on what I said on my first post. I have decided to not only do a headunit swap out , but to add a screen and computer/raspberry pi in the back , added a video to YouTube to explain in more detail ,I will be adding to this as and when bits arrive and work is carried out , looking forward to this little project. Here's the vid
 

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