klaxxo

klaxxo

Member
Hi all brought a Freelander 2 weeks ago (short story bmw blew up BANG) only just realised by beloved 4x4 is not only not a 4x4 its a really heavy rover 25 lol why would some one do this. is it just a case of a faulty vcu and they though oh bugger it it don't cost nothing to take the shafts out lets just clip its wings. of could there be another reason i.e knackered diff of something like that. don't want to be spending 400 quid on a new vcu and shafts if its knackerd (prob will anyways but just wondering what other problems I might be facing when bringing her back to all her glory) lolz
 
Intermediate reduction drive (fixed ratio transfer box) at the front may be feked or the rear diff, due to too much stress in the transmission. That's caused by a failing vcu or tyres which int matched as the same make/model/size and pressure. Loads on ere about it to look through. Easy option is to take oft the vcu and props but the feeling of the drive is orrible, but cheap to do. The ird is normally ok in front wheel drive only. It's just the drive to the rear pinion that's a problem. But not always. Too much stress in the transmission can snap things.

This is how they can crack:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cracked-freelander-1-ird.278571/
 
it bounces around everywhere lol im gunna put a vcu on tomorrow to see if the ird is ok. also am I right in thinking that if I mark the vcu with a marker and take it for a spin when I stop the lines shouldn't match up. or should they?
 
klaxxo said:
it bounces around everywhere lol im gunna put a vcu on tomorrow to see if the ird is ok. also am I right in thinking that if I mark the vcu with a marker and take it for a spin when I stop the lines shouldn't match up. or should they?
Click to expand...
They shouldn't line up. If they do it's bad luck and try again, or more likely seized or near enough seized vcu. We call this the tip-ex test as that's the choice of fluid for marking, but it doesn't really tell you anything and can't be relied on. You need the One Wheel Up Test as per me sig below. Not perfect but the best test we have.
 
ahhh Iv heard about the one wheel up test never really new what it was all about I shall have to look into it
 
I was talking to someone this weekend about doing a VCU test... If I called him an idiot - i would be too polite..... he asked if he should do his PRIOR to reconnecting his propshaft.....
I obviously asked him what he wanted to test and asked him "how are you going to test that if a) you don't have the prop on the car, and b) if your VCU isn't fitted either?"
Bladdy Idiot!!!
 
Yer can "bench test" a vcu on a tab, shorry bench. Fix one end to something like a work mate or vice, without damaging it. Then slide the prop on the other end. I put a long screw driver through the UJ and a metal rod on the end, with a weight. This gives a more precise result but it means yer need to take the vcu oft, and mess about a bit.
 
What year and engine , as putting it right might not be a very cost effective exercise , by the time you have sorted it all properly might be cheaper to buy one thats OK to go , and getting rid of what you have ?
 
it 51 plate 1.8 k-series engine not really bothered about the cost just don't want it to drag on wanna be able to get everything I need and get it back on there
 
Has been known for props to be removed just because the support bearings were worn. Also the rear diff mounts, they get a bit of a hammering in 4WD but not on 2WD.

What I'd do is drain the IRD oil and remove the pinion. The oil my come out greyish - like liquid metal, which is bearings ground to a pulp, but might have been changed when props removed, so nt necessarily an indication of problems. Have a look at the teeth on the end of the pinion to make sure they're not broken - and also the gear it mates to inside the IRD. If they're broke you'll be in for a recon IRD and you might as well do that first because you can't fit anything else like that. If the teeth are OK, make sure the shaft going through the pinion hasn't got any play. If it has, replace the bearing in the pinion and the IRD should be good. I suppose the same tests should be performed on the rear diff - but its 'usually' the IRD that goes before the diff. At least give the pinion a wiggle on the rear diff to make sure there's no lateral movement.

It looks like you're pricing up a recon VCU which is a good idea. Its impossible to know what condition a 2nd hand one is in until after you've bought it.

Good luck.

Oh and whether they drive OK on-road as 2WD is open to debate. I've been perfectly happy with my L Series for 2 years as 2WD and a fella the other day took his props off and sad that the car drove so much better - didn't help he had lots of wind-up in 4WD.
 
wow what a detailed reply thanks very much for that you probably just saved me 3-4 hours scouring the internet to find out how to test an ird lol im gunna start it this weekend when i can get her up in the air. you are correct in assuming im getting a reconditioned one as im totally with you on the second hand ones they may be good when you buy it but the next day fail. i am however getting the props from a deadlander (quite a few to pick from lol)
 
depending on the price of the props..... a guy in Rotherham (and I've been to his "storage yard" sells props and VCUs on Fleabay very cheapish... I got a tried and tested VCU from him for 80notes.... he buys, sells and breaks Freelanders - I know everyones' opinion of a second hand unit, but if you don't have props or a VCU, the exchange unit and the props alone would end up costing you this much before getting a recon unit. - the link is for the old auction, but has his contact details on the page still.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...Cv2l3BZu5z%2FrXZkB6PU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
If the link becomes unavailable, let me know and I will post his number - or PM me and I will PM it back (if we work out how to PM on here!)
 
xpuser8334 thanks very much for pointing me in the right direction. i thought the help i got off this site before i was a member was impressive but now im a member its mental how i get so many replys with actual helpful answers lol
 
I think it's simple mate..... get some questions asked, answers and help come back out.....(hopefully)
I have plenty of questions, and more answers come back.... its what makes the site so great!
Everyone has an opinion, mine..... well... I make my opinion based on not having a lot of cash to throw at the car (read my profile - you will see why) - I used to be a grease monkey (master tech for VW/Audi back in the day), also an electrical engineer, Bosch / Thatcham trained and approved auto electrician and as a side-line; a metal fabrication engineer (metal turning, welding of all sorts etc.) and now..... well... when ECUs came around; I jumped ship, tyook an interest in Computers and now I work in I.T. as a technical consultant for one of the UK largest IT Companies..... I still have the tools, but some cars I don't quite have the knowledge nor understand the faster way to do things...
Anyway... the point (to my lengthy response) is.... "i'm not scared of trying ANYTHING when it comes to cars" hence the reason why I base my opinions on cash flow.
On this site... if my opinion is wrong - flatly wrong; I don't mind being told why and I will take on board the reasons why... if the disagreement is purely because someone wants to disagree... then again, that's fine, but I like to understand the science behind a decision - and not just a case of "you are wrong... then end!"
I guess we are all in the same boat; otherwise we wouldn't be here really..... would we?
 
and the VCU..... I now have two good ones..... but going to keep a spare "just in case" - for £80..... who wouldn't?
 
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