L

Leon17288

New Member
Hi

Having some trouble with 02 4.6 petrol/lpg p38 Thor. Got the dreaded key code lockout have tried everything it's taking eka code cause the side indacotor light is flashing on both turns but it's not recognising it. Problem started because battery went flat. Was wondering if there was any one near me that could hire me a noanocom or something similar will cross your palm with silver for your troubles I'm in aberdare South Wales any help would really be appreciated thanks
 
Welcome to the forum. If the lights are flashing while you are entering the code via turning the key you have entered it wrong as far as I understand. Certainly that is the case for mine. Your eka code should be 4 digits and should take more than 2 turns to unlock. Maybe I've read you post wrong. Here's the process. Hope you get it sorted


eka.jpg
 
Hi

Thanks for reply have tried all sorts definitely right code cause have had to enter many times and light on dash has always flashed on each turn
 
Do a search for @martyuk microswitch test procedures. Probably one of the switches isn't making correctly.
He does supply refurbished ones but works away a lot so might not be able to supply quickly.
That said, if you are keeping it, you really should get yourself a nanocom, it will save you money long term.
 
don't think it's the microswitches cos the light on dash comes on so think it's registering but think the codes have got corrupted am planing on purchasing a nanocom but want to make sure it does the job first
 
No, the code won't be corrupted, or should I say it's highly unlikely.
I can't remember the details but there are more than one microswithes for each direction so one could be doing the telltale lamps but the one that actually enters the code may no longer be working.
Sorry I'm being vague but I'm on my phone so I can't check the details.
Nanocom will definitely enter the code easily providing the BECM hasn't been swapped for an early version.
If it is a BECM problem, @Rick-the-Pick is your best bet at fixing it without breaking the bank.
Get a nanocom though, you won't regret it.
 
Wazzajnr said:
Do a search for @martyuk microswitch test procedures. Probably one of the switches isn't making correctly.
He does supply refurbished ones but works away a lot so might not be able to supply quickly.
That said, if you are keeping it, you really should get yourself a nanocom, it will save you money long term.
Click to expand...

I think Marty is spending more time on these sites these days:

https://rangerovers.pub/memberlist
www.rangerovers.net/forum/

Mozz is the man for getting these things running. Failing that Marty hires out Syncmates from his website here

http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=66
 
Sorry, not on forums as much anymore, and been away working this week - just seen that I was tagged in this.

Do as the others mentioned and test the door latch. It could be the CDL switch is faulty, or intermittent so it isn't registering the change between lock/unlock. Both the CDL switch and the key switch are used in the EKA entering - the CDL switch for which way the key is turned (locked/unlocked) and the key switch for how many times it's turned (eg for the number in each digit).

The Key switch will give you a pulse on the side light telltale for every turn, but if the CDL switch is faulty and not changing to show the door is unlocked, then it will just think you are turning the key to 'lock' all the time.
One quick test that may tell if the CDL is working or not (I'd still test the switch in the latch using the test sheet to be sure!) is if the drivers door is unlocked with the key, will the tailgate open? If not, then CDL is most likely faulty - as it is the ground path for the tailgate unlocking motor. If it unlocks, then the CDL might be OK - but worth testing still to see the resistance of the switch contacts - if it's too high, then it can still mess with the EKA entry.

Funnily enough, I've just finished repairing 5 drivers door latches this week for the later 99-02 P38's (one of the reasons I haven't been about as much)!

There has been a few occasions where I've seen the EKA become corrupted if the vehicle has been locked/alarmed and the battery has gone flat - not common, but can happen. I also have the tools to fix that (if the door latch is fine and you still can't get the EKA to enter via the door or diagnostics) - have a look on my website under "BECM Resetting/Programming/unlocking".

Hope this helps.
Marty
 
I had this problem and needed to change the driver door latch in the door, once i did this i put key in ignition and all ratled up properly, did not need to enter code on door lock because passive coil on ignition recognised the key code.
 
Rick reckons opening the window and using the sill button in conjunction with the key sometimes helps with getting the EKA accepted. Could be worth a try.
 
The red light by the windscreen and the one on the gearstick are both out?
 
Hi all

Thanks for your replies still no luck have invested in a nanocom tried entering code through that still nothing think my becm has gone into alarmed state bloody thing I'd scrap it if i didn't love it so much
 
Leon17288 said:
Hi all

Thanks for your replies still no luck have invested in a nanocom tried entering code through that still nothing think my becm has gone into alarmed state bloody thing I'd scrap it if i didn't love it so much
Click to expand...

In that case @martyuk or Rick-the-pick should be able to help.
 
Had a similar EKA problem with my old 4.0l and found that i had to wait for the tell tail on the dash to flash before the next key movement
 
Just to update - as it has been awhile...

BECM came to me, and was in alarm lockout. Reset that, and it seemed happy again. Sent it back about the 18th Feb...
 
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