Squashboy8
New Member
im a first time driver and I'm looking to buy a freelander, my budget is 3k has anyone got any advice?
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Welcome to loonyzone.
Have a good trawl through the Freelander sticky threads and technical section then you can be a bit more specific
Have a good trawl through the Freelander sticky threads and technical section then you can be a bit more specific
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
will depend on what yer after from personal experience I wouldnt buy another TD4 ( BMW engine) due to numerous electrical issues, if id been sensible id of bought the rover L series engine version and would probably still have it
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
£3k is a pretty good budget for a Freelander - and should get you into a later face-lift version.
Take your pick on the style that suits you - pre or post facelift, but as ever, buy the best car you can. Or, if you are handy with tools and what a project, buy a £250 spares or repair and expect to do everything that these little Land Rovers need.
Diesel may be the more sensible choice if you are going to use your car off road - but there are two petrol models - a 4 cylinder 1.8 litre and a 6 cylinder 2.5 litre. The 1.8 is the cheapest vehicle, and many argue would be the one to avoid, but I am having a hoot in my 1.8! Engine choice may boil down to what you use the car for and the economy you want out of it.
Let's get down to problem areas:
Transmission: this is where I think most will run into problems.
Freelander is permanent all-wheel drive. It has a transfer box mounted to the back of the gearbox - known as the independent reduction drive (IRD). This sends power to the back wheels via a viscous coupling unit (VCU) to the rear axle.
The VCU does age, and after 70-100k miles, the VCU stiffens up, placing increasing loads on the IRD and the rear differential. In fact, such large loads, that the IRD and rear differential can expensively fail.
The VCU should be regarded as a service item and replaced, but the majority of owners of cheap cars either don't know this or can't be bothered. Consequently, the driveline on many cars are often broken - and can be sold with the rear drive disconnected ("Rear axle disconnected to save fuel"). If the rear axle is disconnected, walk away.
If it is connected, check the health of the VCU. On a test drive this is most easily done by driving forwards and reversing at full lock, with the engine running at no more than tickover. The car may slow a bit, but if the car behaves as though it is being braked and stalls, then the VCU is likely to need replacement. New, these are available (made by GKN) and can be had off eBay for around £250 + VAT + P&P. Reconditioned, use a reputable company (Bell comes well recommended), and will cost a similar amount, with new support bearings, fitted...
For other areas of advice, pop over to the Freelander section - loads of experience over there, but otherwise, happy hunting!
Take your pick on the style that suits you - pre or post facelift, but as ever, buy the best car you can. Or, if you are handy with tools and what a project, buy a £250 spares or repair and expect to do everything that these little Land Rovers need.
Diesel may be the more sensible choice if you are going to use your car off road - but there are two petrol models - a 4 cylinder 1.8 litre and a 6 cylinder 2.5 litre. The 1.8 is the cheapest vehicle, and many argue would be the one to avoid, but I am having a hoot in my 1.8! Engine choice may boil down to what you use the car for and the economy you want out of it.
Let's get down to problem areas:
Transmission: this is where I think most will run into problems.
Freelander is permanent all-wheel drive. It has a transfer box mounted to the back of the gearbox - known as the independent reduction drive (IRD). This sends power to the back wheels via a viscous coupling unit (VCU) to the rear axle.
The VCU does age, and after 70-100k miles, the VCU stiffens up, placing increasing loads on the IRD and the rear differential. In fact, such large loads, that the IRD and rear differential can expensively fail.
The VCU should be regarded as a service item and replaced, but the majority of owners of cheap cars either don't know this or can't be bothered. Consequently, the driveline on many cars are often broken - and can be sold with the rear drive disconnected ("Rear axle disconnected to save fuel"). If the rear axle is disconnected, walk away.
If it is connected, check the health of the VCU. On a test drive this is most easily done by driving forwards and reversing at full lock, with the engine running at no more than tickover. The car may slow a bit, but if the car behaves as though it is being braked and stalls, then the VCU is likely to need replacement. New, these are available (made by GKN) and can be had off eBay for around £250 + VAT + P&P. Reconditioned, use a reputable company (Bell comes well recommended), and will cost a similar amount, with new support bearings, fitted...
For other areas of advice, pop over to the Freelander section - loads of experience over there, but otherwise, happy hunting!
