Hi all

I need some help with my 2001 P38.

I have a problem with the central locking/immobiliser, when opening the car on the remote it does not activate the central locking and if i open the door with the key it just gives the engine disabled warning and immobilises itself.

Now i though the problem was the key so i sent the second key (already faulty from a previous issue) to be repaired and re-cased, got the key back and still have the same issue. To get the car started i have to go through the keycode on the door lock turning each way with the code.

Any advice on what the problem is, i suspect it is the receiver box under the rear parcel shelf but i guess i can't just go and buy a second hand unit as it will not be programmed for the car?

Not sure what to do next as starting the car every time on the key code is getting a pain in the neck.

Thanks

Duncan
 
Sounds like it’s ‘lost sync’. Do a search

Problems with RF receiver cause battery drain - do not buy another one - none of them work properly it was a scam in the day they are stupid money.

Check the Landyzone map for someone with nanocom near you, they might come out and do it for a bacon sarnie and some nice cake :)

Also are the key battery’s okay?
 
Hi

Yes i had this problem with battery drain so i disconnected the aerial cable about 6 months ago and was all working fine no drain activated fine just had to stand close to the car.

Ok i will have a look at the nanocom as you advise.

Yes batteries in the keys are all fine just had the spare key refurbed as i thought the keys were the issue but same problem on the new refurbed key.
 
You need a local person with the right version of Nanocom for your "Thor"? engined motor.
I have had this problem and to fix it I "cleared" the RF memory and after that the car would recognise both of my 2 keys.
I think the rolling-codes from the 2 keys get so far out of synch with the BeCM that they cannot get back in line. Clearing RF memory seems to cure it.
You might want to consider buying one of @martyuk 's RF filters for long-term trouble free RF function WITH the aerial re-connected. I did and I am very pleased with the result (no affiliation).
Good luck.
 
I have disabled the rf system and just ues the key for entry and ignition as both my keys started playng up and did not want to be stuck anywhere locked out .also who would steal a 20 yr old car?
 
I have disabled the rf system and just ues the key for entry and ignition as both my keys started playng up and did not want to be stuck anywhere locked out .also who would steal a 20 yr old car?
I did that too for a chap near me who didn't mind those security features being missing.
 
My 19yr old Defender got stollen. I’ve got my (blue dot) receiver disconnected and taped up. Fob still works but you have to stand next to window stops it picking up stray signals as much. It will still drain ever so slightly unless I tape wire up too. Marty’s filter is only method I know that is reliable

Don’t go buying eBay receivers, some not so reputable people stick different colour stickers on them. None of them work anyhow, by time LR sorted issue they were doing L322’s and abandoned interest in sorting it properly.
 
If you can enter the EKA properly in the door to get the vehicle started, then you *should* be able to sync the key (if the receiver is plugged in) to the vehicle and then use that to lock/unlock it.

It sounds as if the passive immobiliser is probably turned on in the BECM, which makes it a bit more of a pain if you are just using the key - as this will automatically immobilise the vehicle after a time out period with the engine switched off. In normal operation (with functioning key and the receiver plugged in) when you put the key in the ignition, the BECM pulses the immobilisation coil around the ignition to get the key fob to re-send an unlock code - which if that matches, then it will seamlessly the remobilise the vehicle an allow you to start the engine.

With that turned on, and no functioning RF receiver/key fob which is synced to the vehicle, then your only option is (as you are doing) to enter the EKA in the drivers door.

Thanks to the people who have mentioned the RF filter myself and a mate make - they have been pretty popular, and hopefully able to get together next week to build some more of them!
The 3rd gen LR receivers do work aswell, they are just stupidly expensive, and as RangeRoller says - in the second hand market of these genuine ones don't come up that often, and there are known to be unscrupulous sellers who put different colour dots on the 2nd version receiver and call it the 'upgraded' version (which it sort of is, but it doesn't fix the problem!)

Back to your issue though... If you just want to be able to lock/unlock the vehicle with the key, then the passive immobiliser will need to be switched off in the BECM, which requires Nanocom or other similar LR specific diagnostics to do. If you want to be able to use the fobs - then you'll need a working RF receiver, and if you get battery drain - either an RF filter unit, or the 3rd generation LR receiver.
 
If you can get someone with a Nanocom to your car, get them to turn off EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM, then you can use either the key or the FOB to get in and start the car. The alarm should be left on.
 
LZIR map might have member nearby with diag.

Did anyone check the lock microswitches yet?
 
Hi there,
I had a message from you, but it wouldn't let me post a reply to the conversation - so have sent you a separate message back. The short version is that we are currently out of stock on the filters, as they have been more popular than we expected and we have both been stupidly busy with our full-time jobs that we haven't had time to assemble/test another batch of them.
That being said, we are hoping to be able to meet up this week, with the aim of getting around 20 of them made/tested/ready to be available to people - so fingers crossed that by next weekend they will be in stock again.

Marty
 

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