JimboSmith

JimboSmith

New Member
Hello all,


New to the forum as I've just acquired a '92 Range Rover Vogue 3.9 EFi from my Uncle as it failed to pass it's MOT last month. I've always expressed an interest in it and therefore am keen to get it on the road again.


DSC01071.jpg


DSC10.jpg



Failures being:

- Offside service brake causing vehicle to swerve (I believe stuck caliper as it's been sitting for a while).

- Hole near rear seat belt mount. (will pay someone to weld it).

- Front bumper corner missing (already replaced).

- CO too high (any tips would be welcome).

- Fuel pipe leaking (between the tank and the filter, have replaced the pump and pulled out the lines up to the filter [both return and high pressure] as the connections were rusted tight. Am planning on replacing the lines with SS braided Nitrate hose but i have an issue with the connectors to the Fuel filter, I'm hoping someone might be able to help. It's the filter type with 2 nut threads other side, part no. ESR4065 See here. I've called LR and they no longer sell the connectors, which are part of the adjoining hose. I believe the thread to be 5/8" and have looked all over for hose tails that transfer down to an 8mm barb with no luck so far. At this point i'm thinking of just purchasing a different filter with barbed connections, any suggestions suitable for the 3.9 or on the connections front would be much appreciated.


Old pump:
DSC1.jpg


MOT failure:
DSC2.jpg


This wasn't a concern for a failure but i'm going to have to sort it out (boot floor):
DSC01064.jpg


I was thinking of chopping it back and riveting a plate over the top, again suggestions welcome.


Thanks for looking, sorry for the long introduction.

James.
 
:welcome2:

Hello and welcome.

CO too high - is yours fitted with cats or is it a non cat?
Fuel filter - the earlier type to yours just had nippled ends where the hose pushed over and was secured with jubilee clips. May be a solution.
Pump removal - I'm sure your boot floor should have an access hatch for the pump. Have you checked under the carpets and sound-deadening?
Good luck.:)
 
@mozz smith - the car is sitting in Somerset near Taunton atm.

Derek Ward said:
:welcome2:

Hello and welcome.

CO too high - is yours fitted with cats or is it a non cat?
Fuel filter - the earlier type to yours just had nippled ends where the hose pushed over and was secured with jubilee clips. May be a solution.
Pump removal - I'm sure your boot floor should have an access hatch for the pump. Have you checked under the carpets and sound-deadening?
Good luck.:)
Click to expand...

Thanks :) It's a non cat, the centre exhaust box is blowing and needs to be sealed properly (it's new so a bit worrying) not sure if that would throw the readings off? Otherwise I was thinking of an Italian tune up unless there's actually a way of refining mixture? I'll have a look at the earlier version of fuel filter, I guess it'd be suitable. I've replaced the pump already, there was an access hatch so pretty straight forward with the big plastic screw disc thing :)

James.
 
A blowing exhaust will affect the readings. Until you've sorted that, you'd be wasting your time with anything else.
The access hatch makes doing the fuel pump a doddle doesn't it! Bloody P38s don't have that.
 
Will get that sorted before trying the emissions again. Yep, they were thinking sensibly when they put the access hatch in - it would be a little annoying having to drop the tank for that job.

I Hammerite'd the front and rear bumpers this morning to neaten up the rusty look a tad. The front number plate holder literally fully disintegrated in front of my eyes as I removed the number plate! Need to have a look for a replacement otherwise i'm sure it'd be fairly straight forward to reattach it somewhere. The car must be noticeable lighter from when it left the factory due to the shear amount of rusty metal it's managed to shed in it's life :)

James.
 
fuel pump: cut the old ones of and refit with jubilee clips and rubber hose to the metal stubs that are left.

Emissions: get a haynes manual and reset the c0 trim on the airflow meter using an allen key and a mulitmeter, its not very difficult but you will need haynes for the values or do a search on here, may have been posted before.

Hope this helps.

Good luck with her, more classics the better!!!!
 
JimboSmith said:
Hello all,


New to the forum as I've just acquired a '92 Range Rover Vogue 3.9 EFi from my Uncle as it failed to pass it's MOT last month. I've always expressed an interest in it and therefore am keen to get it on the road again.


DSC01071.jpg


DSC10.jpg



Failures being:

- Offside service brake causing vehicle to swerve (I believe stuck caliper as it's been sitting for a while).

- Hole near rear seat belt mount. (will pay someone to weld it).

- Front bumper corner missing (already replaced).

- CO too high (any tips would be welcome).

- Fuel pipe leaking (between the tank and the filter, have replaced the pump and pulled out the lines up to the filter [both return and high pressure] as the connections were rusted tight. Am planning on replacing the lines with SS braided Nitrate hose but i have an issue with the connectors to the Fuel filter, I'm hoping someone might be able to help. It's the filter type with 2 nut threads other side, part no. ESR4065 See here. I've called LR and they no longer sell the connectors, which are part of the adjoining hose. I believe the thread to be 5/8" and have looked all over for hose tails that transfer down to an 8mm barb with no luck so far. At this point i'm thinking of just purchasing a different filter with barbed connections, any suggestions suitable for the 3.9 or on the connections front would be much appreciated.


Old pump:
DSC1.jpg


MOT failure:
DSC2.jpg


This wasn't a concern for a failure but i'm going to have to sort it out (boot floor):
DSC01064.jpg


I was thinking of chopping it back and riveting a plate over the top, again suggestions welcome.


Thanks for looking, sorry for the long introduction.

James.
Click to expand...

hmm it looks like a lot of work,is it really worth the blood sweat and tears,it is not a quickfix and will take time to source parts,is the engine and gearbox good?
be prepared for a long haul.
help is here if you need it.
 
fett said:
fuel pump: cut the old ones of and refit with jubilee clips and rubber hose to the metal stubs that are left.

Emissions: get a haynes manual and reset the c0 trim on the airflow meter using an allen key and a mulitmeter, its not very difficult but you will need haynes for the values or do a search on here, may have been posted before.

Hope this helps.

Good luck with her, more classics the better!!!!
Click to expand...


The pump is done, I did indeed just chop out the lines and will reattach it all with new fuel hose when I get the filter through. As I couldn't find any attachments for the new filter I had, I decided to buy the one made for the earlier (and later so it seems?) model with the 8mm barbed fittings which will fit everything nicely.

Very handy to know about the CO trim adjustment, it may add up as the MAF was replaced with a new unit not long ago in order to solve another unrelated problem, which it then turned out not to be at fault. (expensive misdiagnoses!)

Spent this afternoon chopping out the rust in the boot and trimming up a steel plate to bolt over the hole. In the future I'll purchase a welder and learn how to weld in order to sort out my rust issues, however this should work as a midterm fix.

@roddy 4 - The engine and gearbox are strong, so I'm told (famous last words). Will aim to carry out a major service when she's back on the road. Only time will tell whether it's all a worthwhile investment, but I can't wait to get driving around in her and so I'm happy with that :)

James.
 
roddy4 is too negative mate , classics will change yer life, it will be hard and at times you will thing ffs why am I bothering but when all is going well and the v8 is burbling on or off road you know it makes sense!!

Plus keeping them going is worthwhile as real cars like this are a dying breed, plus in the snow you are everyones best friend!!

I learnt to weld by buying my classic, a crash course but it works well!! buy a reactorlite mask it makes it alot easy when you start.
 
Cheers Fett, there is just something about the classic that draws me in that other cars have failed to do and I know that if I broke or sold mine then I'd forever regret it. Looking forward to learning the ways of offroad driving too!

Glad to hear i'm in the same boat with respect to welding, it just makes sense for the long haul plus not a bad skill to have :)

James.
 
thats exactly the way I looked at it, plus learning to weld rust to other rust helps with all landrover products :p

Have a look through my albums on my profile pages and you will see I have learnt alot in the 18 months of RRC ownership so far and done a much more extreme boot floor repair than you have had to do lol.

If you fancy coming accross for some offroading let us know, I have done quite a bit of greenlaning this summer and its great fun.

Btw watch out classics are addictive, I have 3 now and my bmw car :doh: all v8's oh the petrol
 
Looks like a money-pit. I suggest you leave your rose-tinted glasses indoors & check it out for further corrosion before you throw too much money at it, but good luck.
 
norseman said:
Looks like a money-pit. I suggest you leave your rose-tinted glasses indoors & check it out for further corrosion before you throw too much money at it, but good luck.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your concern, I'm impressed at your ability to evaluate it's structural condition from the photos provided ;)

It had both the sills replaced in 2008. When we picked her up from the MOT garage this current time round, I inquired as to the extent of corrosion from the owner who happens to be a Land Rover enthusiast and he commented that it seems to be in good order aside from what I believe to be the area around the front body mount, which would need doing most likely by the end of next year.

It was free, so if worse comes to worst I'm positive that I can make back any money invested weighing her in for scrap.

Now where did I put my rose-tinted glasses...

James.
 
its a money pit so give it to me!
Nobodys sed a good service and a good boot will help the emissions yet?
 
The welding is a piddling little job. The biggest problem you will have is this "Offside service brake" that is causing the vehicle to swerve. You may have considerable trouble locating it to fix it. Surprised nobody mentioned that yet.:D:D:D
 
goonarmy said:
its a money pit so give it to me!
Nobodys sed a good service and a good boot will help the emissions yet?
Click to expand...

You could be on the money there; some clean oil, plugs and possibly leads i'm sure would help things get to where they should be - plus a little bit of an Italian tune-up wouldn't hurt :)

wammers said:
The welding is a piddling little job. The biggest problem you will have is this "Offside service brake" that is causing the vehicle to swerve. You may have considerable trouble locating it to fix it. Surprised nobody mentioned that yet.:D:D:D
Click to expand...

I was thinking this actually, perhaps that's why i've left it until last to ponder over. When the fuel lines are in and she's back up and running again, I'm going to drive up and down the driveway trying some enthusiastic braking in an effort to locate the bad corner (I know that the front OS has seized in the past). I haven't driven her properly yet to have an idea of what's going on and i'm also hoping that doing so may help free things up a bit as I'm sure she's a bit stiff after sitting around for a while. I've seen caliper repair kits on ebay, not sure how useful they'd be though if the piston has welded itself stuck inside!

James.
 
paddocks does cheap parts but dont get britpart ones form them!

its the cheapest place to buy but you have to be sure what your getting
 
JimboSmith said:
You could be on the money there; some clean oil, plugs and possibly leads i'm sure would help things get to where they should be - plus a little bit of an Italian tune-up wouldn't hurt :)



I was thinking this actually, perhaps that's why i've left it until last to ponder over. When the fuel lines are in and she's back up and running again, I'm going to drive up and down the driveway trying some enthusiastic braking in an effort to locate the bad corner (I know that the front OS has seized in the past). I haven't driven her properly yet to have an idea of what's going on and i'm also hoping that doing so may help free things up a bit as I'm sure she's a bit stiff after sitting around for a while. I've seen caliper repair kits on ebay, not sure how useful they'd be though if the piston has welded itself stuck inside!

James.
Click to expand...

That would effect the foot brake not the service brake (hand brake) which is a transmission brake on the prop shaft. At least service brake means hand brake to me, unless the modern idiom has changed it to something else.
 
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