OK, tried to get a few jobs done today, one of which was to fix the heated seat on the drivers side. Checked the switch, lights up fine. Checked the passenger seat and that works fine, so not a fuse or relay. Put the multi-meter across the plug under the seat and it's supplying power (multimeter beeped!) when you turn the switch on, so I've narrowed it down to a broken seat element, probably the seat base rather than the seat back from what I've read.

I have had a look at this guide Heated Seat Repair Operations but am stuck. I've got as far as the photo below, but the element is proper buried within a layer of foam/woven cloth (within the middle grey panel and the one behind it towards the back of the seat), and I cannot see how to get to it without tearing the seat to bits!!



Can anyone explain how to do this or, if it's easier, how to wire a new element into the seat base and where to get one from? The seat is still in the car but have managed to get the leather off the seat base OK to allow me access.

Any advice would be welcome - thanks!

They keep breaking, there is some upgrade (cant remember what it is) so they woke better or the element is better, I did mine 3 times, given up now, do the upgrade if you can, then you 1 don't waste your hard earned ££ and 2 you wont have to keep fixing it every few months

you can get kits on ebay for any car made by wabco or summit like that.

maybe there are better than LR ones?

you will definatly need them in morroco

New elements can be order here:

Famous Four - New Parts for Range Rover P38A (Second Generation) 1995-2002 Models - Interior

I found it a lot easier to take the seat out, but I'm an old man and not that flexible.

Then the foam on top of the element just peeled back. The fabric bit is the element, it's what holds the metal element in place. When the element fails, or starts to fail, the overheating causes a slight scorch mark in the fabric. Aim for these, you'll normally find them in the folds of the seat.

Expose the element wire and solder it back together but use a loop of extra cable (once round your finger) to make sure that it's not put back under strain when you sit on it. I used normal, thin walled insulating cable and covered the solder joints with heatshrink to further support them. Having worked out where it was liable to break I broke into the element where it hadn't yet failed, but was liable to, and put loops in there as well. I then fitted upgraded thermoststats and have enjoyed roasted nuts for two years so far.

When re-building the seats don't use the hog rings, use cable ties. Fit them all loosely then tighten them when you've got them all in.

With the weather deteriorating I felt the need to fix my bum heater a few weeks ago. I followed the guidance on the Range Rover site and took the seat out. My P38 is a 2001 and the seat construction was slightly different to that described but the information was a good guide. Like Dogsbody describes you need to crimp and solder in a thicker section of cable across the crease in the seat base. I also fitted the 45 degree (normally closed) temperature switch instead of 40 degree. They're only a few quid off that well known internet auction site like - 5 pcs Temperature Controlled Switch Thermostat 45℃(N.C) | eBay

About a 3 to 4 hour job - and just like the article, I found £2.24 under the seat - more than the materials used.

I can feel the benefit, bum heater can be felt after about two miles of driving and pleasantly warm rather than the original lukewarm - I also find it's good for a bad back. If it's done properly it'll last and these luxuories are what we have our RR's for isn't it?

Dave

zzr1200 said:

New elements can be order here:

Famous Four - New Parts for Range Rover P38A (Second Generation) 1995-2002 Models - Interior

Click to expand...

Mine's a Classic, not a P38a - any idea if it's the same pad/connection?

dogsbody said:

Then the foam on top of the element just peeled back.

Click to expand...

There's foam that is attached to the leather, and that peeled back OK. But the foam that the metal element is embedded in seems to not want to seperate from the metal?

I'll have a look for scorch marks and see what I can see!

Speedex750 said:

...you need to crimp and solder in a thicker section of cable across the crease in the seat base. I also fitted the 45 degree (normally closed) temperature switch instead of 40 degree.

Click to expand...

OK, so you didn't use bare cable for the broken part, just normal insulated electrical wire? The blue or red stuff you buy on a yellow real from Halfrauds?

Might liike at those temp switches - where in the circuit do they mount, as I might fit one to the passenger side if not too big a problem! Is it just one switch per seat, or a seperate one for the base and back rest?

Cheers for the replies guys!

I don't know about a classic but the picture of the seat looks the same and the fault sounds the same so I would read directly across from P38 experience.

Don't try to unpeel the foam that holds the element down - if you do get it up the element springs up and goes out of shape, not irrecoverable but hard to lay down without overlaps that could cause hot spots. The fault is invariably where the element crosses the lateral seam, just where the pink bit is in the picture - and the equivalent place on the left side of the seat. Look for a scorch mark though it doesn't always do that.

Yes to the ordinary insulated cable; blue, red or green with pink stripes! go thicker that the element wire and form a U shape in it to nessle into the groove in the foam to stop it being stretched when sat on. A covering of heat shrink especially over the connections is another layer of protection. As said above small cable ties are easier than hog rings and will not rub through the insulation, they're easier to get off if you have to have a second go - just cut them.

On the P38 the switch is located in the centre at the back of the seat pan, just about under your hand in your photo. You should be able to feel it if you feel under the leather. The new ones need a metal ring cutting off and the terminals filing down to the smaller size. Cut the foam above around the switch and pull the conections off. Dig a little more foam out of the cavity with a pair of pliers. Mount the new switch with the bigger part down into the cavity. Cut a disc of foam and stick it over the switch as insulation. Job done!

Getting the leather back on the seat was a bit of a struggle with it upside down on the bench, it'll be harder if still in the car - as will the repairs above - I would recommend you take it out.

May your posterior be warm!

Dave

Thanks Dave, excellent step by step guide! Will give it a go next weekend. I can get the leather back on easy enough, am wondering if it is easier with the seat bolted in place as it can't move around then!

Will let you know how I get on. Cheers!

I'd agree with dogsbody, it's much easier to take the seat out, and remove the entire leather covering, when you do there are are two connectors, you need to link out the one that connects to the seat back with a wire link, so that you create one continuous loop in the seat base, it's always the seat base that breaks. Then you can use a multmeter on one pin on the 12V supply (choose the correct pin by checking your meter reads 1-2 ohms by checking at the thermostat connection as this is straight off the 12V feed pin and easy to get at, if it reads infinite ohms, normally shown as ∞ on your multimeter, then pick the other pin and repeat) and attach a pin (anything sharp will do) to the other end of your multimeter (set to ohms) you can then force the pin through the insulation, starting at the middle of the loop and see where the reading falls from about 1-2 ohms to infinite ohms , you've then found your break! Start in the middle and keep dividing by two the remaining distance, you'll find the break pretty quickly. Repair as described by dogsbody and you'll be ok for another year. Then repeat!