Castor

Trainee maniac
I reversed enthusiastically into a fence-post the other day with the offside rear of my 97 P38 4.6 hse with a petrol/LPG dual fuel system on it. Shortly thereafter I realised that the engine would no longer run on petrol.....runs fine on LPG.

Question 1 - Does a P38 have an inertia switch somewhere that shuts off the fuel pump? If not, then suggestions, please?

At the same time the driver's door locking mechanism is doing a funny and won't open correctly. Using the key (the fob doesn't work) the solenoid doesn't seem to actuate fully. All the other doors function OK, so the appropriate contacts are being made. Has the door lock gone into some anti-burst mode?

Question 2 - anyone had this before and can anyone suggest what has happened?
 
I reversed enthusiastically into a fence-post the other day with the offside rear of my 97 P38 4.6 hse with a petrol/LPG dual fuel system on it. Shortly thereafter I realised that the engine would no longer run on petrol.....runs fine on LPG.

Question 1 - Does a P38 have an inertia switch somewhere that shuts off the fuel pump? If not, then suggestions, please?

At the same time the driver's door locking mechanism is doing a funny and won't open correctly. Using the key (the fob doesn't work) the solenoid doesn't seem to actuate fully. All the other doors function OK, so the appropriate contacts are being made. Has the door lock gone into some anti-burst mode?

Question 2 - anyone had this before and can anyone suggest what has happened?

Yes behind the trim R/H side of drivers footwell. Bottom of A post.
 
Perfick. Thanks Wammers. I now need to figure out how to get to it because the drivers door won't open!
 
Question 3 - how do I open the driver's side door by stealth? The solenoid's not cutting the mustard.....
 
With great difficulty.
Oh Good. I had to scrap a perfectly good Honda once upon a time when the door permanently locked itself. Anti-burst mechanism had over-rotated and the only way in involved an angle grinder.
 
No such lock on the P38 that I am aware of....but if Superlock is engaged, you will fight to get in, budget for a new door in worst case.
 
Does the team think that I should just find a new door and go in with a disc cutter?
 
Remove the O/S rear door, this will give you access to the striker. Tape up the door edge and use an angle grinder to cut the outer part of the striker, then use a new hacksaw blade to cut the inner part of the striker. Once you have the door open you can gain access to the lock.
 
Remove the O/S rear door, this will give you access to the striker. Tape up the door edge and use an angle grinder to cut the outer part of the striker, then use a new hacksaw blade to cut the inner part of the striker. Once you have the door open you can gain access to the lock.
Now that's the kind of precision brutality i approve of. Thanks. I'll have a crack at the weekend.
Long shot, but after turning the key in the drivers door, check to see whether the tailgate will open
I can get into the vehicle from any door other than the driver's. This is not convenient! :D
 
Now that's the kind of precision brutality i approve of. Thanks. I'll have a crack at the weekend.
I can get into the vehicle from any door other than the driver's. This is not convenient! :D
If it's super locked, take the door lock apart and launch the small motor as far as you can, it won't super lock again.:) Don't forget to obtain a striker before you start the job.
 
If it's super locked, take the door lock apart and launch the small motor as far as you can, it won't super lock again.:) Don't forget to obtain a striker before you start the job.
Having got now as far as actually looking at the job, I reckon I can cut both legs of the striker loop with a decent hacksaw blade. some masking and some jigging.....
 
Yes behind the trim R/H side of drivers footwell. Bottom of A post.
Yup. With the driver door stuck shut, someone of my size cannot get to it. Had to send the wife :D. Now sorted, thnks. :)
 
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