defenderdog

Active Member
I’m currently driving a bog standard 2003 td5 auto. Well underpowered is an understatement. I’ve seen ferrets pull away quicker. What would give me more power cheaply and easily without going down the remapping Avenue. I’ve heard different arguments over egr blanking but if there any advise from people that have done any mods I’ll be glad to listen.
 
+1^^^ it might have some management or fuel supply issue... air and fuel filetrs are new? , unplug the MAF's electrical connector and drive it so for test, also if it still has EGR(which you should bin) clean the MAP sensor cos it's full of gunk, make sure that the wastegate rod is not sticking, the catalyst should go away cos if it's clogged it restricts power big time

anyway you must diagnose it first cos it's not supposed to be so underpowered as you describe it
 
I’ve checked the maf sensor or air flow meter all clean. All seems to be running as it should. Don’t get me wrong she goes ok but just seems slow on the pulling away. Once she moving she will cruise at 80ish no bother. She just needs a bit more bottom end grunt. I will order a egr blanker tonight. Are any better than another? I’ve got a cat free pipe somewhere so I’ll chuck that in at the weekend. I’ll also check the injector loom for oil ingress.
 
I’ve checked the maf sensor or air flow meter all clean. All seems to be running as it should. Don’t get me wrong she goes ok but just seems slow on the pulling away. Once she moving she will cruise at 80ish no bother. She just needs a bit more bottom end grunt. I will order a egr blanker tonight. Are any better than another? I’ve got a cat free pipe somewhere so I’ll chuck that in at the weekend. I’ll also check the injector loom for oil ingress.
A common "fault" can be that you're not giving it enough loud pedal... I suffered the same issue when I first got my TD5.
 
> A common "fault" can be that you'renot giving it enough loud pedal... I suffered the same issue when I first got my TD5.

This. In particular, forget about trying to drive a TD5 auto "like a diesel" (i.e. with lowish but torquey revs). You can use way more revs than you might think, and they'll respond well. Which is odd for a diesel, but there you go - they're odd vehicles all round in their own way.
 
Removal of the EGR isn't likely to produce that much of an improvement in performance, unless it's very dirty and restricting the airflow from the outlet of the intercooler to the inlet manifold. In my opinion, the main reason for removing it is to feed the engine with clean fresh air not already burnt fumes.
The main reasons for the EGR to get messed up would be either dirty oily exhaust fumes being let in as part of the job of the EGR or worse than that oil getting into and then out of the turbo, which is not good, at all.
Some people say that you should wash out the intercooler at the same time as removing the EGR, but provided the air filters are serviced regularly and the turbo is clean, there shouldn't be any real need.
If the EGR is dirty then you should really wash out the inlet manifold as well and clean the MAP sensor too.
 
If I disconnect the wiring what will happen if it’s fecked.
Removal of the EGR isn't likely to produce that much of an improvement in performance, unless it's very dirty and restricting the airflow from the outlet of the intercooler to the inlet manifold. In my opinion, the main reason for removing it is to feed the engine with clean fresh air not already burnt fumes.
The main reasons for the EGR to get messed up would be either dirty oily exhaust fumes being let in as part of the job of the EGR or worse than that oil getting into and then out of the turbo, which is not good, at all.
Some people say that you should wash out the intercooler at the same time as removing the EGR, but provided the air filters are serviced regularly and the turbo is clean, there shouldn't be any real need.
If the EGR is dirty then you should really wash out the inlet manifold as well and clean the MAP sensor too.
Thanks Brian.
 

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