doobie

doobie

Active Member
had another mishap wi my landy's again, the positive lead to the starter solenoid fell off! ended up melting a hole through the starter motor cowling! luckily it never set fire to anything, was close though as the fuel pump and filter as right above it!

i've patched up the cowling with some duct tape and reattatched all the wires but the starter isn't truning. had to call the girlfriend for a lift home in the end! hopefully its just the battery is drained after its welding attempt!

DSCF2183.jpg


got three defunct landy's now!!! :D
 
aye, i've had a couple of them fall off before, looks like the nut securing them all came undone this time as it looks to be lost out on the road somewhere!
 
it possibly came loose because the crimp on OPEN ended thing came out and that made yer nut slack , which then undid it self
 
sounds like a good theory, was goin to put another ring type connector on it tommorow when i get back to it. when i re-tightened it all that open ended thing looked as though it could easily fall out.
i've only got crimp connectors like, is there anything better?
 
use rings not open ended crimps and use nyloc nuts or two nuts tightened - or a serrated washer
 
just went round to try and start the sickly beast again, couldnt sit watching tele all night when i've got something to try an fix!! took my spare tractor batt but its just making the same "Klunk Klunk Klunk Klunk" noise when i try to turn it over, no wirring from the starter motor tho so either the motor is totally shot or its not getting the ziggy's..... magic

was thinkin the starter might have tried to engage while the engine was running and the wires were flyin about!
 
you can take the plastic off them, squeeze it on, then solder the bastid that way it wont shake loose and it wont get dirt in it and give yer a bad connection and as i pointed out in me last post don't use them OPEN things in vehicles
 
slob said:
you can take the plastic off them, squeeze it on, then solder the bastid
Click to expand...
s'funny you should say that as its what i used to do with them before if found a crimping tool im me shed!

anyhoo's got back to the beast today and took out the starter motor and found the bendex hingimy isnt moving out and the motor's not turning when wired up correctly. with 12v's directly on the terminals it whirrs away but if i wire it up to the soleniod and close it it does nowt.

so i took a similar looking starter motor off a v8 but it doesn't quite fit. the plan now its to get the solenoid to bits and pinch bits off the v8's one. they're both lucas models bit slightly different.
 
Don't you rate the rachet type crimp tool either slob, or is it same thing take the plastic off crimp it then solder it followed by heat shrink?
 
iannotts said:
Don't you rate the rachet type crimp tool either slob, or is it same thing take the plastic off crimp it then solder it followed by heat shrink?
Click to expand...
with the amount of vibration, moisture and the temp changes yer get in a car or other vehicle. i wouldn't use em. when i was installing bits and pieces in cripple drivers cars, and before , i always soldered the joints even thou i had a crimper that i used to make the clutch operating cables.

how many times have you seen cars with them horrible crimp on things that have electrickle faults? or where the crimp has bin done so badly that it has cut half way through the wire leaving it to break when you least need it to.

to save yerself trouble later on solder all yer joints
 
the rachet type crimp tools are the best as they tend to be preset unlike the other type where you tend just to compress the crimp has hard as you can, often deforming the crimp and weakening the joint

it's allways best to slide the plastic cover back and solder when using a non rachet tool, and use proper crimps not the sort you get in a "mixed" box from Woolies
 
crimps are crap even the rachet ones. they are ok in a fixed location but not in the electronicly unfriendly enviroment of a vehicle. sure they might last fer a while, a petrol gaylander might not blow its head gasket but the odds arn't with yer same with using crimps in a car
 
Believe me Slob. Crimps are as good, if not better than solder joints IF DONE CORRECTLY! there are good and bad points on both systems. The critical thing is to ensure that a good gas tight joint is made. Crimp connectors allow wire flexibility up to the crimp - solder ones can generate a stress fracture where the wire meets the contact. Solder ones are easier if yu dont have the correct tools .
 
when i had the contract from a large electronic company they insisted i only ever soldered the joints for any vehicle installations? even thou i had a 400 quid crimp machine fer doing the 'mechanical' clutch cables. and seeing how i've had more trouble wiff folks crimps than any soldered joints i still say yer better to solder them.. true you might get a stress fracture on em but it happens less than problems from crimps . specially those ones dune with the flexible crimp pliers from tescos auto shop.

and as most folk on here don't have the correct crimper to ensure a good job they would be better to solder the fookers
 
Just picked up on this post, very interesting to hear what you say about soldering all connections. Ive just finished "patching up" (well enough to get it an MOT-Its getting a new bulkhead next year, and will put an Autosparks loom on then) the dash in my S3, and have used all crimp on connections with the plastic covering, neither did I use the ratchet type tool, and ive already had to take the dash out 3 times after they've dropped out of the temp gauge etc. Very annoying! (why didnt I get an S2 with less wiring!!!;))

To be honest I prefer soldering but thought that (as they'd previously been used) the crimp connections were the right type to use!

So do you think I should use these;
AUTO SPARKS
(soldered then shrinkrapped) or with one of these;
AUTO SPARKS


Thanks
 
BIOSBILL said:
Just picked up on this post, very interesting to hear what you say about soldering all connections. Ive just finished "patching up" (well enough to get it an MOT-Its getting a new bulkhead next year, and will put an Autosparks loom on then) the dash in my S3, and have used all crimp on connections with the plastic covering, neither did I use the ratchet type tool, and ive already had to take the dash out 3 times after they've dropped out of the temp gauge etc. Very annoying! (why didnt I get an S2 with less wiring!!!;))

To be honest I prefer soldering but thought that (as they'd previously been used) the crimp connections were the right type to use!

So do you think I should use these;
AUTO SPARKS
(soldered then shrinkrapped) or with one of these;
AUTO SPARKS


Thanks
Click to expand...


if they are in close proximity to other conections and/or other metal parts you wanna use the sheath rather than heat shrink. especially in an orf road vehicle as the bumps and vibrations may cause a short.

if you do try and crimp the fookers ..well you've seen what can and will happen..

when you solder them keep the amount of 'tinned' wire sticking out the connection to a minimum, to allow fer max flex. this will help prevent any stress fracture from occuring.
 
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