brianjbox

Active Member
Well decided I'd have a go at my first mechanical project on the defender, worked on lots of other motors I've owned, but not this.

Right it was the output shaft seal that needed doing, evident by the oil dripping from the handbrake drum and neatly sprayed in a circle round the chassis, exhaust and floor above:rolleyes:

Now being new to this I read lot's of articles on here and other sites, got together all the tools I thought I'd need and prepared to get dirty.
I had to jack the motor up firstly at the front so it was reasonably level [wanted to do all oils] and then the rear corner to allow the prop-shaft to rotate, broke me bleeding two tonne jack so although on axle stands I can't get it off:(

Anyway, prop-shaft nut's bleeding awkward but I finally got them off and prop out of the way, I then got my 30mm socket with my longest torque wrench wound right up, pulled the handbrake fully on and got ready to give it all I got to slacken it off and the f**ker was loose:eek:
I released the handbrake and took drum off and everything was smothered in oil, dripping with oil, I undid the nut and pulled the ouput flange thing off only to find the felt washer was fitted behind the flange doing bugger all:doh:

I got told when I bought the parts all I needed was the seal and a new felt washer, think I'm gonna get a new 30mm nut before re-fitting as it either came loose or was never done up properly, who knows.

Right question:

The handbrake shoes look new but are smothered with oil, absolutely soaked.
Can these be cleaned with the spray clutch and brake lining cleaner or do I need to replace them?
Book says they need renewing as can't be cleaned but they are only the handbrake.

What'd ya reckon?

Thanks
Brian
 
id have cleaned them

back in the days of motor repairs, I kept a big old cooking pot.
used to put boiling water in plus washing powder bio is better,
wipe or clean as much oil and debris of the shoes then pop then into boiling soapy water for 10 minuets, drain and serve :rolleyes:
well not serve but quench them in cold water....:D
when dried rub the friction faces with a bit of sandpaper or something.

worked well then, must still work as well now....


but they are cheep to buy now..


oh, works the same on most things like stripped carbs and stuff, but they need a spray of wd40 stuff as they`ll corode..
 
I used to clean them on my old split screen campers as the wheel bearing hub gaskets always leaked straight into the drums

Thought I was doing the right thing:doh:
 

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