Spindall

Active Member
Can anyone recommend a new, good value camshaft for my Gems V8 4.6 rebuild. Quite a few options out there.
Cheers
 
Well, I've just had the block top hat lined and balanced, polished crank, heads refurbished, etc
The body interior is in fantastic condition so it's a keeper.
I want it to be as reliable as it can be...
Yeah I know.
 
I suspect Ratae was actually asking ... what are you aiming to achieve over the factory spec. ie power or torque & maybe at what RPM/driving situations.
Perhaps you could be more specific as to your aspiration's.

nb. Remember Newtons third law, for every action there is an equal & opposite reaction :rolleyes:
 
Point taken.. my post was a little light on details.
I'm looking for info on a decently priced good quality product in the bog standard range. Mainly motorway work on lpg, occasional towing.
Need it to last, do its job and not stress other parts.
Would original part the best choice with so many aftermarket options of which some are no good.?
Any pointers appreciated.
 
Point taken.. my post was a little light on details.
I'm looking for info on a decently priced good quality product in the bog standard range. Mainly motorway work on lpg, occasional towing.
Need it to last, do its job and not stress other parts.
Would original part the best choice with so many aftermarket options of which some are no good.?
Any pointers appreciated.
That's the risk.

I'd be inclined to stick with a standard camshaft.
Replace the camshaft, the followers, the chain & both sprockets.
Perhaps have a look at Turner Engineering's website. Engine reconditioners & they sell the same items they use themselves & their prices are fine.
www.turnerengineering.co.uk/rover-40-46-v8-petrol-engine-parts-c102x3005626

While you're doing the work strip & clean the rockers & their shafts.
The shafts are hollow & the rocker arms have an internal oil passageway. These can get full of crap & a good clean is well worth the effort. Aerosols of clutch & brake cleaner are good for blowing through the passages.
When you strip them clean each item as it comes off the shaft & put it on a length of dowel. Helps to keep them in the same order as they came off making the rebuild simpler.
 
As you remove the rocker shaft pillars - bolts hold these to the head - check for shims under the pillar bottoms.
These - if necessary & there may not be any - are used to adjust the preload on the followers.
 
Yes... I've done shims on motorbike engines so I got the gist but will be checking the book for the v8 procedure..
I guess it probably involves swearing.
 
Yes... I've done shims on motorbike engines so I got the gist but will be checking the book for the v8 procedure..
I guess it probably involves swearing.
We did the top end on Otto's engine last year due to a blown gasket. Rockers are pretty easy to get really clean - can recommend a brass brush and something like Green Gunk or Auto Glym engine and parts cleaner. Basically the same, much more effective and less horrible to use than standard gunk. As we cleaned each part I put them back together in correct order. So much baked crud it took a mallet to get the pillars off the shaft, going back together was easier but I did freeze the shaft and bake the pillars to get a bit more clearance for ease. Also WD40'd them as reassembling.
Most important part is getting the orientation right as per RAVE so the oil holes and pushrod to valve orientation is right - otherwise you get a sideways spacing error along the rocker shaft. RAVE isn't very clear on the diagram, but if you look at the sideways offset before you take it apart it will be clear.
Putting them back is easy enough, just do the bolts progressively and once some load on there go say a turn per bolt and then next bolt to keep it from twisting or bending.
Be interested to hear what you go with - Otto's cam is fairly worn, but we weren't in a position to do that as well as the gaskets, so at some point we wil be looking at cam and follower replacement for him. No LPG though.
 

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