lightning

lightning

Well-Known Member
I have a strange problem with my 2005 TD5 gearbox
Or maybe it’s just how they are.

The gear change was obstructive when the transmission was warm, mainly in the higher gears when it clashed and felt generally as though the clutch was dragging.
But in the lower gears it was OK.

So l had a new clutch and flywheel fitted (at nearly £1,000) now it’s perfect in all gears when cold, but when warm it will sometimes clash when changing 1-2 or 2-3
Higher gears are perfect !!

l am not sure if anything be done about this, my 110 has been like that changing from 2-3 for the past 60,000 miles
Never got any better or worse.

ls it worth changing to one of the fancy oils that claims to “transform the TD5 gearshift” (At around £70 for three litres)

Looking at old threads on this and other forums, these gearboxes are not always great even when new and some people had several fitted under warranty back in the day.

This oil seems to promise improvements

https://www.difflock.com/evolution1
 
Last edited:
not sure what oil you got in it,

I keep hearing good things about the difflock oils, maybe iirc @bankz5152 may have used it?

Otherwise some people reckon using ATF vs MTF ( as MTF94 was specced for the td5 r380's) I used both in my old D2 , and I found the ATF gave a better gbox change. But others will say the opposite.

Cheers
 
Straight mineral EP90 (Smith Allen as reccomended by Ashcroft and Syncro)
In LT230 + Diffs

ATF or MTF 94 in gearbox. Either is fine really

I only use semi synth oil (10/40)

Your better off changing oil more often and use basic stuff than spend a fortune on gucci oil. Defenders are old dervs emd of the day not Lambos.

I generally use Halfords own brand and change engine oil every 6 - 7k, transmission every 12k
 
I've tried various things in mine over the years. I did splash out on the expensive Difflock stuff a few years ago, as well as Land Rover brand MTF94 and latterly the cheapest MTF 94 I can find. No detectable difference!
Mine needs a good hard push to the left to get it lined up for 2nd. Going from 2nd to 3rd is easiest if you let go of the lever momentarily in neutral and let the springs find the gate into 3rd, so you can complete the change. I suppose I could have a fiddle with the mechanism to see if I could improve it, but I've just left it like that. On level ground I very rarely use 1st gear anyway. It is perfectly happy pulling away in 2nd which helps to reduce the amount of stirring you have to do.
 
neilly said:
Otherwise some people reckon using ATF vs MTF ( as MTF94 was specced for the td5 r380's) I used both in my old D2 , and I found the ATF gave a better gbox change. But others will say the opposite.
Click to expand...

In my experience of the R380, some like ATF, some like MTF94 - and it's a question of finding out which oil your box prefers ..... I use Carlube MTF94 or Castrol ATF - I've also had good results with Opie oils ATF ( when I couldn't get Castrol locally for some weird reason o_O )
 
When you say clash I'm thinking grinding or with a chonk or are you saying difficult to engage? What is it like neutral to reverse cold/warm.
 
Thanks for the replies, it’s a clash felt through the lever, not the actual graunching of gears that you’d get if the synchros had failed.

Actual engagement is fine, reverse engages OK

l will change the oil, we recently bought this 90 and l have no idea what oil is in there or if it has ever been changed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JoeCoutz
TD5 90 2006, loss of drive. No gears work.
Replies
4
Views
370
Spudgun!
S
P
It seems someone drained the main gearbox oil case on my puma 90 2007 2.4. Damage assessment enquiry
Replies
7
Views
968
lightning
lightning
G
Land Rover 300tdi clutch not disengaging after engine out
Replies
6
Views
685
Geckomike
G
MalcolminSpain
To a TD5 from a V8
Replies
10
Views
875
MJI
MJI
S
how to test the gearbox
Replies
6
Views
917
boguing
boguing