swge1

New Member
hi,
Can anyboby tell me who manufacturers MTF 94 or does anyone know where i can get some in co.antrim northern ireland
or is there any other better alternative i can use in my 2001 td5
 
The Land Rover part codes are:

STC 9157 for 5 litre
STC 9158 for 1 litre

I have found that you may be easier just nipping down your local LR dealer and buying it there - it's around £28 for the 5 litre... With a 5 litre can you can just about get 2 oil changes for a R380 box... I bought 5 litres and changed the oil a while back and there seemed to be around half left over. Just managed to change it again this time (but I bought a spare 1 litre bottle just in case there wasn't enough, but there was!)...

Have a search on the web for the two STC codes to check prices, then call your local LR dealer... bet you find it's easier just dropping by and buying the "real" item from the LR dealer...
 
The Land Rover part codes are:

STC 9157 for 5 litre - £28 = £5.50 per ltr
STC 9158 for 1 litre

I have found that you may be easier just nipping down your local LR dealer and buying it there - it's around £28 for the 5 litre... With a 5 litre can you can just about get 2 oil changes for a R380 box... I bought 5 litres and changed the oil a while back and there seemed to be around half left over. Just managed to change it again this time (but I bought a spare 1 litre bottle just in case there wasn't enough, but there was!)...

Have a search on the web for the two STC codes to check prices, then call your local LR dealer... bet you find it's easier just dropping by and buying the "real" item from the LR dealer...


That's very interesting Martin, thank you for that.

Dave
 
Just seen your comments on gear box oil.Do you have to have use this type of oil in the gear box because when I had mine changed I am sure the garage did not use this type of oil.
 
MTF 94 is recommended by Land Rover. Some people use different ouls, or ATF. However that can cause sticking between 1st and 2nd gear when cold.

It's a LR advisory and recommends MTF94 for all later gearboxes
 
Just seen your comments on gear box oil. Do you have to have use this type of oil in the gear box because when I had mine changed I am sure the garage did not use this type of oil.


Like all things mechanical they have to be lubricated and some lubes are better than others.

Most garages will use ATF in manual gearboxes as that is what Land-Rover USED to recommend, but not anymore.

For an R380 gearbox the recommended oil is MTF94 (being formulated to operate the synchros correctly), but it is not the BEST oil.

I would suggest that the best oil I know off is the fully synthetic oil from www.difflock.com and is called EVO1. Yes it is expensive by comparison to ATF, but atf is really just rubbish for a manual gearbox.

They also do EVO2 which is again a fully synthetic and is used in the transfer box and axles.

When I put these oils in my wife's Disco, the improvement in performance NVH (Noise vibration and harshness) was noticeable. Her mpg was 36 daily and over 40 on a run so I would maintain these oils had reduced frictional losses in the drive-train.

Not connected with Difflock other than as a happy customer.
 
Like all things mechanical they have to be lubricated and some lubes are better than others.

Most garages will use ATF in manual gearboxes as that is what Land-Rover USED to recommend, but not anymore.

For an R380 gearbox the recommended oil is MTF94 (being formulated to operate the synchros correctly), but it is not the BEST oil.

I would suggest that the best oil I know off is the fully synthetic oil from www.difflock.com and is called EVO1. Yes it is expensive by comparison to ATF, but atf is really just rubbish for a manual gearbox.

They also do EVO2 which is again a fully synthetic and is used in the transfer box and axles.

When I put these oils in my wife's Disco, the improvement in performance NVH (Noise vibration and harshness) was noticeable. Her mpg was 36 daily and over 40 on a run so I would maintain these oils had reduced frictional losses in the drive-train.

Not connected with Difflock other than as a happy customer.

Interesting! If the difflock oils saved 10% of fuel... Assuming 20000 miles between drivechain oil changes...

At 30 mpg, you would use ~666 gallons to do 20000 miles (around 30 tanks of fuel). Saving 10% on all that fuel would save you the cost of 3 tanks of fuel... Well worth the extra (significant) cost of using difflock oils if they are that good???

I just changed the MTF in my gearbox (and used carlube semi synth EP 75w90 in the transfer box and diffs). Gearchanges seem a bit smoother, but just with the new oil I guess... Not checked MPG yet, but normallt just over 31 mpg (TD5 manual)...best ever was 34 mpg on a run...

I guess the other saving is that any reduction in "frictional losses" should also improve the service life of the components.
 
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What's the advantage of synthetic oil in transfer box and axles, over & above 'normal' gear oil (given its 3x the price, or so)?
 
oil suffers shearing and looses it's grade when heated/crushed/contaminated.

Pays your money and takes your choice- but chemically altered synthetic oils resist better
 
Like all things mechanical they have to be lubricated and some lubes are better than others.

Most garages will use ATF in manual gearboxes as that is what Land-Rover USED to recommend, but not anymore.

For an R380 gearbox the recommended oil is MTF94 (being formulated to operate the synchros correctly), but it is not the BEST oil.

I would suggest that the best oil I know off is the fully synthetic oil from www.difflock.com and is called EVO1. Yes it is expensive by comparison to ATF, but atf is really just rubbish for a manual gearbox.

They also do EVO2 which is again a fully synthetic and is used in the transfer box and axles.

When I put these oils in my wife's Disco, the improvement in performance NVH (Noise vibration and harshness) was noticeable. Her mpg was 36 daily and over 40 on a run so I would maintain these oils had reduced frictional losses in the drive-train.

Not connected with Difflock other than as a happy customer.

Only reason i'm going to change oil is that the gear stick becomes quite tight and sticky on a long run with no gear changes (i.e. motorway) but frees up again after a few shifts between gears.

So do u reckon this evo1 is worthwhile and will it solve my problem
 
Only reason i'm going to change oil is that the gear stick becomes quite tight and sticky on a long run with no gear changes (i.e. motorway) but frees up again after a few shifts between gears.

So do u reckon this evo1 is worthwhile and will it solve my problem


I think there is a chance it will, but the TD5 R380 combo has a known issue for getting difficult after a long motorway run, as you say.

I can't remember exactly what the cure is but I believe it has something to do with a nylon or plastic collar/ball which is part of the selector mechanism. I believe it is a cheap parts job if you can do the work yourself.
 
I think there is a chance it will, but the TD5 R380 combo has a known issue for getting difficult after a long motorway run, as you say.

I can't remember exactly what the cure is but I believe it has something to do with a nylon or plastic collar/ball which is part of the selector mechanism. I believe it is a cheap parts job if you can do the work yourself.

thanks for this reply.
do you or anybody else have any more info on this problem or the cure/parts which i may require. would like to investigate this and complete the repair before i would change the oil.
 

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