Dear All

I did a full service over the weekend on my wife's 2004 TD4, I did everything including the BMW crankcase breather oil separator conversion, rear final drive oil and the gearbox oil.

On completion, I took the car for a test drive: nice smooth gear change, going up through the box as it should but there is a noticeable whirring/humming noise which increase with speed/revs. Its not really loud but if you are listening for it, you can hear it. It definitely was not there before.

I followed all the instructions in the manual and various threads that have covered the topic. The only change I did was I used Carlube ATF-U fully synthetic transmission fluid instead of the Texaco. The reason for this was not price it was the fact I could not get hold of the Texaco stuff, even the local dealer said they only buy it in 25 ltr drums???

I am presuming the humming will be due to changing the gearbox oil.

Can anyone advise, is this normal when you have new oil installed in the Jatco box I would of thought it should of made it quitter if anything.

The level has been re-checked again and it is correct (steady trickle).

I am now scared to drive this as I do not want to blow the box especially after reading all the horror stories other members have listed.

Is it a case of find the correct oil and start again or could I have done something wrong.

Many thanks

Edit ..Just spotted it's an auto.

So.. If it's an auto are you sure you changed it at the correct temperature as this make all the difference to go much goes in!

roccotune said:

Is it a manual? If so I would stick to the recommended MTF 94. If it's an auto are you sure you changed it at the correct temperature as this make all the difference to go much goes in!

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Jatco = Auto. That would be this stuff: http://www.fleetfactors.co.uk/lubricants-c8/automotive-oils-c16/atf402-p530

Is it definitely speed or revs related?
If it's a hum/whirr linked to rev speed I would look at the aux belt pulley maybe - not familiar with the TD4 but I'm assuming it has one for the alternator at least!

I have a laser thermometer, the oil that came out was 45degrees (hot).

I presume the reason the temperature is critical is that the various sensors/solenoids will be open or at the correct position at this point.

I have done a lot of mechanical work on heavy engineering machinery and oils have to be changed at specific temperatures due to the thickness and flow rates of the oil but that's not the case as this oil is no thicker than any other.

The hum is as I go up through the box, meaning you hear it ever time I change gear and it gets slightly loader the faster the car goes. It is however only noticeable if you are listening for it.

To be 100% sure I am guessing all I can do is try and source the genuine oil and try this to see if it makes any difference.

The oil that came out was about 5.6 ltrs measured in jugs. What would go back in was 3.6ltrs which was also a bit bizarre but its definitely at the right level and its the correct plug.

more like oil cooler is thermostatically controlled, any oil in cooler doesnt circulate till up to temp

Shaune9 said:

I have a laser thermometer, the oil that came out was 45degrees (hot).

I presume the reason the temperature is critical is that the various sensors/solenoids will be open or at the correct position at this point.

I have done a lot of mechanical work on heavy engineering machinery and oils have to be changed at specific temperatures due to the thickness and flow rates of the oil but that's not the case as this oil is no thicker than any other.

The hum is as I go up through the box, meaning you hear it ever time I change gear and it gets slightly loader the faster the car goes. It is however only noticeable if you are listening for it.

To be 100% sure I am guessing all I can do is try and source the genuine oil and try this to see if it makes any difference.

The oil that came out was about 5.6 ltrs measured in jugs. What would go back in was 3.6ltrs which was also a bit bizarre but its definitely at the right level and its the correct plug.

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hi

hope this doesnt come across as rude but u did have the engine running when u checked the ATF level

seems weird that more came out that went in, did u go through all the gears and u say the temp was at 45

personally i used land rover oem ATF myself , i know people use other oils but i just preferred using the oem oil when i done mine

weird though as well that u have a humming sound

have u rechecked it again after a quick run and rechecked the oil was between 35 c - 45

once again not telling u how to suck eggs

Last I did this (rover 75 but same box) I got the same out as went back in. That said there is no telling it wasn't over filled in the first place I guess? I would be re checking the level and make sure you go through all the gears one by one to fill the galleries before you level check with car running in neutral

Actually I did not have the engine running when checking the oil (school boy error I presume).

I ran the engine up to temperature, then turned off and did the oil change topping up until oil ran out.

Went through gears with engine running checked oil level again.

Took car for short run, turned off and checked again.

I presume not having engine running makes a drastic difference????

Is it possible to overfill by 2 liters? Surely once up to the fill hole it will just run out and be impossible to overfill? Is there even enough 'empty space' in the box for another 2 liters?

I don't know the intricacies of air locks or closed valves etc in an auto box that would not allow enough oil in, but I have heard stories on here where the wrong bolt was removed causing loss of reverse. So have you used this bolt to fill through? Have you tried reversing since you changed the oil?

Shaune9 said:

Actually I did not have the engine running when checking the oil (school boy error I presume).

I ran the engine up to temperature, then turned off and did the oil change topping up until oil ran out.

Went through gears with engine running checked oil level again.

Took car for short run, turned off and checked again.

I presume not having engine running makes a drastic difference????

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may i say, please dont use it until you've sorted the shortage of oil out , otherwise u could cause serious damage to ur gearbox,

run the engine back up to temperature, between 35-45 c , leave the engine running , remove the level plug, if no oil comes out top it up until it just starts trickling out of the level plug , to through the gears, put the level plug back in and then try it

hopefully the noise will disappear and will perform how it should , but plse dont use it until you've sorted the oil level out

need the engine running so it goes round the cooler etc ,

plse let us know how u get on ,