D

Dollywasasheep

New Member
Hope you guys can help, had issue with my Freelander 1 cutting out managed to borrow a diagnostic box from work, which said it was the rail pressure sensor, so took the sensor out to clean and make sure all ok, but when I took it out there’s like a second boss going into the rail which came out with it, behind this was a small insert type fitting. My question is which way round should this go back in as it had rolled onto its side when the boss came out. I guess the boss should stay in and have held this part, I just want to make sure it’s the right way round. I have put it back together the way I thought with insert slipping inside the boss, but upon test driving it all was good for 10 minutes and then it started cutting out again eventually dieing completely and needing a tow home.

Any help appreciated.
 
Dollywasasheep said:
but when I took it out there’s like a second boss going into the rail which came out with it, behind this was a small insert type fitting. My question is which way round should this go back in as it had rolled onto its side when the boss came out.
Click to expand...
there's a pic attached here , that might help ..
www.landyzone.co.uk

TD4 fuel rail pressure sensor queries

so I recently swapped my old sensor for a new one, along with the harness. No issues until yesterday smelled diesel quite strongly, and then today when checking under the hood and Mrs.wlshyd gunning the throttle, saw diesel spurting from the thread of the new sensor.. Disassembled the engine...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
.
 
Thanks hd3 well at least I got that bit right.

It's now coughing and dieing now and again, I have yet to plug it back in, but wondered what you may think is casuing the issue, the sensor was my next go to.
 
Dollywasasheep said:
Thanks hd3 well at least I got that bit right.

It's now coughing and dieing now and again, I have yet to plug it back in, but wondered what you may think is casuing the issue, the sensor was my next go to.
Click to expand...

High pressure regulator O-rings most likely £5.22 for the part and about 45minutes work to remove and fit.

www.ebay.co.uk

Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi Common Rail Pump Pressure Regulator seal kit Bosch x 1 | eBay

Citroen: Belringo - C5 - Jumpy - Synergie - Xantia -. Xsara - Xsara Picasso (2.0 HDi 1999 - 2007). Evasion (2.0 Hdi 2000 - 2002). C8 2.0 & 2.2 Hdi (2002 - 2006). Jumper - Relay (2.8 HDi 2002 - 2009). Peugeot: 206 - 306 - 307 - 406 - 806 - Expert - Partner (2.0 HDi 1999 - 20. ).
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Dollywasasheep said:
It's now coughing and dieing now and again, I have yet to plug it back in,
Click to expand...
1] see above what Arctic-2 wrote ..
as a generic diagnostic box might display ' rail pressure sensor ' .. but might not be totally accurate.

re:
"I have yet to plug it back in,"
to clarify .. you can start it .. and it will idle somewhat with the rail sensor disconnected ??
but will cough and stop running ..
that seems to rule out the actual rail sensor as the issue, as the td4 once running,
will operate and drive with the fuel rail sensor being disconnected .. albeit with lottsa smoke and diesel knock.
[ the ecu provides a default fuel pressure map ]

'tis sounding more like the hp.pump fuel regulator o-rings as Arctic-2 suggests.

the term 'fuel rail sensor' and 'fuel pressure regulator' often get mixed up
when looking online ..

Dollywasasheep said:
managed to borrow a diagnostic box from work,
Click to expand...
did the box display an actual fault code ??

.........................................................................
 
Dollywasasheep said:
Thanks hd3 well at least I got that bit right.

It's now coughing and dieing now and again, I have yet to plug it back in, but wondered what you may think is casuing the issue, the sensor was my next go to.
Click to expand...

Hi,

The best that you can do, plug the diag tool, take a full screen picture of the fault reading, post it there ! ;)

Regards
 
hd3 said:
1] see above what Arctic-2 wrote ..
as a generic diagnostic box might display ' rail pressure sensor ' .. but might not be totally accurate.

re:
"I have yet to plug it back in,"
to clarify .. you can start it .. and it will idle somewhat with the rail sensor disconnected ??
but will cough and stop running ..
that seems to rule out the actual rail sensor as the issue, as the td4 once running,
will operate and drive with the fuel rail sensor being disconnected .. albeit with lottsa smoke and diesel knock.
[ the ecu provides a default fuel pressure map ]

'tis sounding more like the hp.pump fuel regulator o-rings as Arctic-2 suggests.

the term 'fuel rail sensor' and 'fuel pressure regulator' often get mixed up
when looking online ..


did the box display an actual fault code ??

.........................................................................
Click to expand...
Alteredtech said:
Hi,

The best that you can do, plug the diag tool, take a full screen picture of the fault reading, post it there ! ;)

Regards
Click to expand...
Hi Guys

Plugged the diagnostics box back in and found these codes, cleared them all car started perfectly, ran it up to temperature and a few minutes later starts coughing and dieing repeatedly. Plugged the box back in and got the rail pressure sensor fault code again.

Thanks for your help, I’ve not worked on my cars for years and it’s taking some getting my head around it.
 

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Hi

For P1110 look next to the oil gauge, there should the air temp sensor unpluged, try to find the wire, somewhere …

With the P0190 code, the car start perfecty ? With the engine cold and a stable idle ?

If the car start, the fuel rail sensor should be working ( should give you a value with diag tool ) so could be the High pressure pump regulator o ring, can be also a bad injector …

Can you read the high fuel presure pump with your diag tool ?
You can do a leak back return test for testing the injectors.
 
Sorry for the delayed response, my weekend went to pot after working on the Freelander.

So I tried changing the seals on the high pressure regulator, which made a little improvement on the smooth running when cold but still shut down when it got warm. Change rail sensor and we had success runs and drives considerably better and so far hasn’t cut out.

The P1110 fault, I have found that one of the wires to this is broken right at the plug, can you get replacements or is there a way to repair the plug and need some special tool.

Also not sure if this is just me but when driving it around after fitting the sensor I did about 20-30 miles and it appears the car used about an eighth of a tank of fuel would this be normal ?

Thanks for your help so far guys you have made my kids very happy.
 
Hi,

Do you have the picture of that plug ?
The plug can be disassembled, but since it’s old plastic it will break, you so a need a new connector, is a connector used for injectors, 2way JPT(Junior Power Timer) connector …
 
Dollywasasheep said:
Also not sure if this is just me but when driving it around after fitting the sensor I did about 20-30 miles and it appears the car used about an eighth of a tank of fuel would this be normal ?
Click to expand...
don't judge mpg by the fuel gauge display .. as when 'full' , it can drop rather suddenly .. then hang around 'half' for ages.
best to fill up .. use the trip meter for miles driven .. then see how much fuel is needed to fill up.
in standard tune .. the fl1/td4 does aprox. 40mpg .
 
Dollywasasheep said:
Hope you guys can help, had issue with my Freelander 1 cutting out managed to borrow a diagnostic box from work, which said it was the rail pressure sensor, so took the sensor out to clean and make sure all ok, but when I took it out there’s like a second boss going into the rail which came out with it, behind this was a small insert type fitting. My question is which way round should this go back in as it had rolled onto its side when the boss came out. I guess the boss should stay in and have held this part, I just want to make sure it’s the right way round. I have put it back together the way I thought with insert slipping inside the boss, but upon test driving it all was good for 10 minutes and then it started cutting out again eventually dieing completely and needing a tow home.

Any help appreciated. apk spotify premium
Click to expand...
Has anyone done this? How difficult is it? I have seen a video of the intake manifold removal which seems like a pain because of all the things to detach, but it doesn't seem that difficult if you have patience lol. However, I can't seem to find a video specifically regarding the fuel rail pressure sensor. Once you get access to the sensor, can you just remove it and install the new one, or is it move involved than that? Will I need any new gaskets? Is there a proper torque value?
 
rogerwhemr said:
Once you get access to the sensor, can you just remove it and install the new one
Click to expand...
yes ..

rogerwhemr said:
Will I need any new gaskets? Is there a proper torque value?
Click to expand...
see the link in post no.2 ..
the diagram that came with a replacement sensor, shows the parts.
not shown in pic. .. but were included .. is the torque value,
which be different depending on which model sensor it is.
i.e. go by part number ..
2 types are shown in the diagram .. as are the [o.e.m.] part numbers.
.................
 
rogerwhemr said:
I have seen a video of the intake manifold removal which seems like a pain because of all the things to detach, but it doesn't seem that difficult
Click to expand...
this mod makes removal much easier ..
www.landyzone.co.uk

intercooler problem mod

Is biggamehunter still on here? If so can he pm me about this mod? I need some advice on the mounting of the sensor in the ally pipe. Ta.
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
.
an fl1/td4 in the u.s.a. ?
thought it were the v6's that crossed the pond
you on about a L322 4.4 TDV8 ?? as mentioned in a post ?
if so .. ignore the above ;-] as it relates to the m47/td4 diesel.
.
 
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