02Disco2

02Disco2

Well-Known Member
So I tried to follow UP’s guide on replacing the fuel pressure regulator this morning to fix the “common” leak but the top bolts are in danger of rounding and I can’t break them free. I don’t want to keep going with socket or ratchet spanner in case I do round them off

I’ve seen another post on here on the same topic but there was no conclusion as such as to what was done.
Would getting the engine hot help?

Any clever ideas on what to try as I don’t have the kit to take the engine out and want to avoid the garage if I can but I’m out of ideas, and tools!!

cheers
 
You could get hold of a socket that acts on the flats of the bolt, rather than the corner, and you can also get special sockets designed to tighten down onto bolts like these.
But before you do that, make sure you use a freeing off agent like a mix of acetone and ATF, or PB blaster and as soon as you have put that on, smack the ends of the bolts with a hammer and an extension or something. You could also paradoxically try exerting a tiny bit of pressure on the bolt clockwise, just to break the grip of the corrosion on the thread.
This link tells you about this and also has an instructable, should you need it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=soc...450l8.454647909j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
6 point sockets or if already rounded “Irwin sockets” supposed to be very good.

asbove make sure a good application of some freeing stuff over a couple of days helps. :D

J
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You could get hold of a socket that acts on the flats of the bolt, rather than the corner, and you can also get special sockets designed to tighten down onto bolts like these.
But before you do that, make sure you use a freeing off agent like a mix of acetone and ATF, or PB blaster and as soon as you have put that on, smack the ends of the bolts with a hammer and an extension or something. You could also paradoxically try exerting a tiny bit of pressure on the bolt clockwise, just to break the grip of the corrosion on the thread.
This link tells you about this and also has an instructable, should you need it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sockets+for+undoing+seized+bolts/nuts&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l8.454647909j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link, will have a read through - bought a set of extraction sockets from Amazon, hopefully there will be enough room to get a 3/8 socket on to those bolts - it’s chuffing tight around the pressure reg!
 
02Disco2 said:
Thanks, will read through that - I think removing the inlet manifold may be the way forward, especially as my oil cooler seals appear to have decided to start leaking coolant so that needs to come off too - might just be worth taking them both off and getting the most space possible in there
Click to expand...
Getting maximum elbow room, always a brill idea.;)
Tis a pain often but then it can save time and temper and damage in the long run.
You'll get there in the end.;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Getting maximum elbow room, always a brill idea.;)
Tis a pain often but then it can save time and temper and damage in the long run.
You'll get there in the end.;)
Click to expand...

Cheers! New bolts (fpr), Irwin extractor, freeze spray (SF’s recommendation), o-rings (oil cooler) and gasket (inlet manifold) on order so job for next weekend!!

Thanks for all the suggestions
 
Just closing this on off - I ended up giving in on this one (Disco beat me!) and took it to a local garage as I discovered the engine mounts needed doing as well and the guy did both things in a couple of hours which was well worth the money in my view - mot on Friday so my deadline was looming and it’s good to get it all done.

as an aside it feels like a new car with the engine mounts replaced, god knows how long they’ve been knackered - I though the judder/wobble on start up/turn off was just a disco thing!!
 
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