Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Excellent
This thread;
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...freelander-today.199594/page-356#post-3902342
Was set up so we could all blow our trumpet about how absolutely fantastically brilliant we are.
We also sometimes admit to catastrophic failures as well
Mike
This thread;
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...freelander-today.199594/page-356#post-3902342
Was set up so we could all blow our trumpet about how absolutely fantastically brilliant we are.
We also sometimes admit to catastrophic failures as well
Mike
Whilst I have your attention on this issue. I recently tried to remove the rear hubs off my '55' plate Freelander TD4.Excellent
This thread;
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...freelander-today.199594/page-356#post-3902342
Was set up so we could all blow our trumpet about how absolutely fantastically brilliant we are.
We also sometimes admit to catastrophic failures as well
Mike
Took the wheels off and removed the two screws that hold hubs on. The hub didn't budge. Am I right in thinking that I need to smack it with a hammer to get them off. Please advise.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
We are talking drum here right?Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike
Mine were a pain, it is perseverance till they shift. The wheels are difficult to budge as well sometimes!
Has anyone got photos? my MY2004 FL1 has started having the rear brakes sieze in the morning - it used to only be if I left the handbrake on overnight, but now it happens even if I leave the car in gear over night with the handbrake off. I'm guessing there is a massive lip on the brake surface that the shoes are sticking to, which means removal is going to be 'interesting'. Should I buy drums and shoes only or will I need adjusters and fitting kit too?
Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike
Yes, I meant drums. So, I should undo the two screws and give them a whack with the rubber mallet? They need to come off so that I can clean them and paint them.It's easier to remove the drum of the MY01 onwards, if the adjuster is backed off first. This is done by flicking the adjuster cam round, though the hole in the back plate.
Nodge68.It's easier to remove the drum of the MY01 onwards, if the adjuster is backed off first. This is done by flicking the adjuster cam round, though the hole in the back plate.
I'll get back to you on this advice soon.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Also on topic, I was replacing the disks on a 02 Freelander last year and couldn't get the old ones off. No matter how hard I hit them with a mallet they weren't for shifting so instead of just hitting them harder I did this.
I cut the outer part of the disk with an angle grinder, then put a chisel in the slot and bashed it. It only took a couple of thumps before the disk split right down the middle and was then easy to take off.
Turned out they were so corroded on the inside they had swollen to the point were they had no intention of shifting so without my method I suspect I would have done harm getting them off.
I cut the outer part of the disk with an angle grinder, then put a chisel in the slot and bashed it. It only took a couple of thumps before the disk split right down the middle and was then easy to take off.
Turned out they were so corroded on the inside they had swollen to the point were they had no intention of shifting so without my method I suspect I would have done harm getting them off.
strange things happen bought this td4 2001 with a bad propshaft bearing will do this tomorrow as said in first thred did all braks and egr valve when I was bringing her home from Scotland had bit of a hard time getting it in gear after doing these miner repares gear box now sound ? was told new cluch 2012 new new master cylinder and new concentric cylinder all bills so should be good for another 50.000 I hope
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rob_bell
Well-Known Member
The drum will almost certainly have a lip on it where the shoes have worn the metal.
I took some advice from the Haynes manual: it the brim still had plenty of meat in it, I removed the lip with a half-round metal file, which should make pad renewal that little bit easier
I took some advice from the Haynes manual: it the brim still had plenty of meat in it, I removed the lip with a half-round metal file, which should make pad renewal that little bit easier
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Probably a wheel sensor. Get the codes read to see which one it is.
