I had an awful knocking on the drivers side front and decided that it was something to do with the anti roll bar as it sounded like it was. Anyway I got round to doing it Sunday and it was a nightmare to do with just jacks and axle stands. The bolt on the front of the bracket on the passenger side (anti roll bar brackets sit on top of the crossmember/subframe so a pain to get to led on the floor) just turned in place and would not come out so I had to bend the bracket, replace the rubber and then bend the bracket back and tighten the rear bolt. | was luckier with the drivers side as that came off properly. I also changed the drop link on the drivers side and all is now quiet

I have put two jubilee clips on the inside of the brackets against the rubbers to stop the bar moving sidewards as the plastic clips are no longer there but I am looking for more suitable clamps for that job.

I gather I would have to take the crossmember/subframe off of the vehicle to sort out the turning bolt on the passenger side bracket and that looks like a mammoth job that I don't fancy.

Anti roll bars are not normally clamped side to side as they find their own happy place.

ZDomZ said:

Anti roll bars are not normally clamped side to side as they find their own happy place.

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On most car's this is true. However on the Freelander, plastic clips on the bar stop it from slipping side to side.
Worm clips are often used to hold them into place.

Haven't looked at minein detail since I have been freelandering so ignore me!

I used Jubilee clips to locate mine after driving it for a few miles which allowed the bar to settle into position.
The clamp bolts can be accessed from above using a selection of extension bars and a ratchet. Best thing to do-if you can release the bolts is to replace those stupid LR undersized head bolts with stainless M8 X 20 long, greased bolts with a "Proper" 13mm a/f hex. head with a washer underneath.