neville.d

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hi guys my freelander1 td4 still wont start i live on a farm far from any toolshops and do not have a camshaft tool .can anyone please be so kind to perhaps post a pic or drawing of the camshafts positions please would appreciate it thanks
 
The cam positions are checked with a special tool see the manual
This holds them correct while chain is fitted.

Hi
When you asked on your last thread about this, there was various ideas given. Have you done anything since?
Did the car ever start after the HP pump was switched?
Why was it switched?

The fact that a ‘special tool’ is needed to check the cam position would suggest that a diagram will not suffice!
Just asking for a photo of the camshaft will not help, me thinks…
 
Everything you need is in RAVE - Workshop Manual - TD4.

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Hi
When you asked on your last thread about this, there was various ideas given. Have you done anything since?
Did the car ever start after the HP pump was switched?
Why was it switched?

The fact that a ‘special tool’ is needed to check the cam position would suggest that a diagram will not suffice!
Just asking for a photo of the camshaft will not help, me thinks…
hi there yes the pump was replaced by previous owner car did not start after replacing the pump i also found out recently when me and him spoke that he forgot to lock the crank because he did not know this at the time .I replace the glow plugs with new ones still no start ,what i also notice is on the dash there should be a blinking light when the car is locked but there is none could that be the the imobiler not working or could the timing be out because of the crank that weren't locked?
 
I think the immobiliser would prevent cranking completely.
Though why it is not coming on is another issue.

What did you try before stripping the engine…?
Did you try easy-start, and did it ‘catch’?
Do you have fuel pressure at the rail?
 
Blinking light means the alarm activated, or if when you open the door it beeps it could be a low fob battery. Until you get it running don't replace the battery.
You need to work smart, there's plenty of advice and repair procedures on this site alone. Code reader would be an advantage so you can check the fuel pressure from the hp pump.
I would research the process to change the hp fuel pump to see what the impact of not locking the cam is.
 
I think the immobiliser would prevent cranking completely.
Though why it is not coming on is another issue.

What did you try before stripping the engine…?
Did you try easy-start, and did it ‘catch’?
Do you have fuel pressure at the rail?
there is feul at the rails and did try easy start its just cranking don't know anything else I had a guy here with a code reader and he said the reader shows the car is mobilized and he does not have the tools to fix it cause it involve s programming can this be it
 
HP pump is not timed to cam. If the timing chain didn't come off and he used the tool to hold the spigot on the pump then the timing will be fine. If he didn't use the tool then the spigot will have dropped into the crankcase and chain will be loose.
 
HP pump is not timed to cam. If the timing chain didn't come off and he used the tool to hold the spigot on the pump then the timing will be fine. If he didn't use the tool then the spigot will have dropped into the crankcase and chain will be loose.
dont say that Andy this means i will have to start over then
 
Well, if they used the tool the hp pump will be turning and fuel pressure will be present.

If not it will clatter and bang and most likely damage valves so you would know by now !!
 
As I said in the last thread on this, I’d be starting with the simple stuff if you have confirmed actual fuel getting through…
LP pump ok, then… pressure reading at the rail (which will confirm your HP pump)
Camshaft sensor (back probe it if you can’t change it) - which if knackered will just cause it to crank over all day long and not fire
 
As I said in the last thread on this, I’d be starting with the simple stuff if you have confirmed actual fuel getting through…
LP pump ok, then… pressure reading at the rail (which will confirm your HP pump)
Camshaft sensor (back probe it if you can’t change it) - which if knackered will just cause it to crank over all day long and not fire
thanks you guys i will steadily go through everything will keep you posted thanks
 
When cranking it should be an even drop in speed as each cylinder has compression. Any change in the rhythm would indicate a loss of compression which may be due to timing chain being out.
 

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