martini

Member
This site is so bloody frustrating for an old geezer like me !!!
I would like some advice about my 2003 freelander . I am slowly checking everything on the car that can be done at home without a ramp etc . Just a couple of days ago I replaced the propshaft after having taken it off for the summer .
I did ask a question about the turbo vent filter yesterday and got a good response so now on to the drive train .
We retired to Spain two years ago and bought a proper dodgy Freelander at a proper dodgy price because we were told that living in the campo/country side we needed a 4x4 . We have already spent quite a bit on this car and can't afford to sell it because second hand cars in Spain are very expensive . Hence the reason I am trying to get this car in shape and reliable . I can't put a list of problems we've had because it would take to long but saying that we have come to really like the Landy . It's a great way to learn new Spanish words when you go to the garage with different problems and our local mechanic is our friend now , I think .
Ok propshaft replaced because we are now getting more rain and mud but because we have got used to running without it and more quietly it seems to be making more noise . I have checked the rear diff and the oil is at correct level and appears clean then checked the transfer box level and again it was good with clean oil . What now , the viscous coupling doesn't appear to have been leaking so all that's left is the propshaft support bearings . The noise is like a whirring and although not nasty I am concerned .
Any suggestions .
 
Do the One Wheel Up Test OWUT to check the condition of the VCU. Link below:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-13#post-2141449

The VCU doesn't leak as such. Over time it wears which causes it to tighten. There's many an argument on ere about it but the best thing to do is test it regular and know the timed value. If the time increases its a warning.

It could quite easily be the prop shaft bearings. When they fail yer normally get a strange rumble and vibration in the centre of yer Freelander. Front one normally fails first but it's worth doing both at the same time. Guide to changing them over ere:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-vcu-bearing-replacement-how-to-guide.156068/
 
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Do the One Wheel Up Test OWUT to check the condition of the VCU. Link below:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-13#post-2141449

The VCU doesn't leak as such. Over time it wears which causes it to tighten. There's many an argument on ere about it but the best thing to do is test it regular and know the timed value. If the time increases its a warning.

It could quite easily be the prop shaft bearings. When they fail yer normally get a strange rumble and vibration in the centre of yer Freelander. Front one normally fails first but it's worth doing both at the same time. Guide to changing them over ere:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-vcu-bearing-replacement-how-to-guide.156068/
Thank you so much for the information .
Tomorrow I will try the one wheel up test . I will also check the price of propshaft support bearing because we have retired to Spain and the postage from Ebay can be expensive and the Spanish postal system quite poor .
Do I need to take the propshaft off completely to replace the support bearings ?
Regards Martini
 
The noise is like a whirring and although not nasty I am concerned .
Any suggestions

It could be the VCU support bearings.

How are the tyres? Are they all the same make and type with the least worn on the rear?
If not you will damage the IRD and or diff.
 
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Do I need to take the propshaft off completely to replace the support bearings ?
Regards Martini
You can disconnect the props from the VCU and remove the VCU but it can be difficult if it's rusted solid where they connect. Most find it easier to remove the props and vcu in one go, then split them. I do. I'm also not keen on the props hanging from one end. I would support them at the VCU end if I had to do it that way, when the VCU is removed.

Only buy good quality VCU bearings or they'll fail too early. As above check tyres first as this could also be a cause/problem.
 
It could be the VCU support bearings.

How are the tyres? Are they all the same make and type with the least worn on the rear?
If not you will damage the IRD and or diff.
All tyres are good . It's just a few days ago that I was using the car with the propshaft removed because I take it off for the summer .
Whilst the propshaft is off all is great ,better fuel economy , a bit nippier and no adverse noises so this is why I think it is noise coming from propshaft bearings or VCU now the propshaft is fitted back on the car it's making a whirring noise .
 
Tyres may be good, but are all 4 identical, same make, same type, with least worn on the rear.
Same on the front and matching on the rear but that is not the point . Before I put the propshaft back on the vehicle this week everything was good .
The extra noise has only happened since the propshaft was re-fitted .
 
The extra noise has only happened since the propshaft was re-fitted

So if you have 4 identical tyres (the FL1 is hyper fussy on tyres) with least worn on the rear, then you can assume the noise isn't due to the IRD or diff being overloaded, unless the VCU has gone stiff while in storage.

So assuming the VCU is ok, then the support bearings are the likely cause.
 
So if you have 4 identical tyres (the FL1 is hyper fussy on tyres) with least worn on the rear, then you can assume the noise isn't due to the IRD or diff being overloaded, unless the VCU has gone stiff while in storage.

So assuming the VCU is ok, then the support bearings are the likely cause.
Ok so as I have said the car ran nicely with no adverse noise up to this week when I replaced the propshaft . We live in the mountains of Malaga so during the summer we don't really need a 4x4 although our track and drive way are unmade so summer has no propshaft and winter we need 4x4 .
I re-fitted the propshaft this week and now we have the whirring noise . I checked the rear diff and the oil level and quality was good then checked oil level and quality of oil in the transfer box and again all was good so I think you are right in saying there is a good chance it's the propshaft support bearings that are making the noise . Just tonight I have ordered a pair of bearings from Ebay UK so they will go on in a couple of weeks .
Although our Freelander has several bumps and scrapes both my wife and I really like it . The engine is great and the auto box seems good so I want it to be reliable for a long time .
Regards to anyone helping with advice . Cheers
 
So if you have 4 identical tyres (the FL1 is hyper fussy on tyres) with least worn on the rear, then you can assume the noise isn't due to the IRD or diff being overloaded, unless the VCU has gone stiff while in storage.

So assuming the VCU is ok, then the support bearings are the likely cause.
Thank you for the info .
Regards
 
Thank you so much for the information .
Tomorrow I will try the one wheel up test . I will also check the price of propshaft support bearing because we have retired to Spain and the postage from Ebay can be expensive and the Spanish postal system quite poor .
Do I need to take the propshaft off completely to replace the support bearings ?
Regards Martini
Today I did my interpretation of the owut and I would put pics on of my set up but I can't find how to do it . The whole thing was a bit rough and ready but here are my figures ,
3 kilograms took 75 seconds
4 kilograms took 45 seconds
5 kilograms took 25 seconds
6 kilograms took 20 seconds
7 kilograms took 12 seconds
8 kilograms took 9 seconds
What do you think ? are these figures a long way of or close enough .
 
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Today I did my interpretation of the owut and I would put pics on of my set up but I can't find how to do it . The whole thing was a bit rough and ready but here are my figures ,
3 kilograms took 75 seconds
4 kilograms took 45 seconds
5 kilograms took 25 seconds
6 kilograms took 20 seconds
7 kilograms took 12 seconds
8 kilograms took 9 seconds
What do you think ? are these figures a long way of or close enough .

If your lever was 1.2m long, then those figures are fine.
 
Today I did my interpretation of the owut and I would put pics on of my set up but I can't find how to do it . The whole thing was a bit rough and ready but here are my figures ,
3 kilograms took 75 seconds
4 kilograms took 45 seconds
5 kilograms took 25 seconds
6 kilograms took 20 seconds
7 kilograms took 12 seconds
8 kilograms took 9 seconds
What do you think ? are these figures a long way of or close enough .
If your lever was 1.2m long, then those figures are fine.

I did try to get everything as close to your specifications as possible and I suppose there is a little room for human error
so I am pleased that you think things are ok .
Thanks for this info it was interesting setting it up .

Just waiting for the new propshaft support bearings now and then all should be good .
Regards
 
All my checks seem to be going ok so once again thanks to everyone for the info .
Today I received filters in the post ;- Crankcase breather filter and the Turbo Vent filter .
These are now on my car .
How important is the :- MAF Sensor because I have read that it can be cleaned with special spray but looking on Ebay I have ordered a complete sensor and housing for not much more than a can of cleaner . I just hope that because it's cheap it will still do the job .
 
How important is the :- MAF Sensor
It's quite important that it sends a strong signal back to the ECU. As they age, the signal reduces, so the EDC reduces fueling.
I have read that it can be cleaned with special spray
Cleaning seldom works as the hot wire element oxidizes, reducing the signal. No amount of cleaning will cure an oxidized hot wire element.

I have ordered a complete sensor and housing for not much more than a can of cleaner
You get good and bad off EBay. I've tried a few, but none are as good as an original Bosch part. This gives a similar effect as a genuine middle-aged MAF, but better than a failed MAF.
 
It's quite important that it sends a strong signal back to the ECU. As they age, the signal reduces, so the EDC reduces fueling.
Cleaning seldom works as the hot wire element oxidizes, reducing the signal. No amount of cleaning will cure an oxidized hot wire element.


You get good and bad off EBay. I've tried a few, but none are as good as an original Bosch part. This gives a similar effect as a genuine middle-aged MAF, but better than a failed MAF.

That's great to hear . I'm quite new to this maintenance stuff on a Landrover and just thought because I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands I would try and keep ours running as well as I can .
Thanks for the information .
 

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