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rufusw5

Member
Just looking for some thoughts while I get a code reader.

My 06 TD4 started randomly losing power, by that I mean when accelerating it would hit an RPM wall, seems to have settled on doing it at 2200rpm and the check engine light comes on.

It hadn't had a filter while I've had it and the low pressure pump was noisy so I started there. The replacement pump was even worse.. so I took the pickup out of the tank and cleaned a load of gunk off the strainer, it seems happier now but still not fixed.

I'll get a code reader and see what it says before I dig any deeper. In the meantime, I was just wondering if anyone's had the same issue or has any thoughts on what I'm likely to be looking at?

Also worth mentioning, it gives a puff of white smoke on startup (diesel smoke) and it's a bit stinky - not sure if that's got owt to do with it.

Apart from not revving it starts and runs fine. Right up until this started it was driving spot on.
 
What make pump did you fit? I had exactly the same symptoms as you and knew the LP pump was on the way out. Did some research and went for a Pierberg pump (which is noisy) but it's sorted the issue. Consensus seems to be that anything other than LR, Bosch or Pierberg are rubbish
 
Read codes us best. Have you had an engine light on?
I had one-once that was over boosting the turbo due to the manifold pressure sensor being faulty. The engine management halted the action at around 2,000 rpm to prevent over boost.
 
It was a Starline pump from Euro Car Parts, I didn't really give it any thought to be honest - I started it up to move it ready to swap the fuel filter and the pump sounded noisy so I went to get one before I started. Cleaning the tank pickup made a huge difference in pump noise, I refitted the old one as it made no difference - it sounds fine now to be fair and seems to be shifting the fuel through the loop no problem.

I'd be surprised if it was knackered out of the box.. but maybe not unheard of?

I've ordered a code reader anyways, will have another look through the week when it turns up. Im thinking it might actually make more sense for it to be the fuel pressure regulator - but I'm completely guessing really with the general smokiness.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Read codes us best. Have you had an engine light on?
I had one-once that was over boosting the turbo due to the manifold pressure sensor being faulty. The engine management halted the action at around 2,000 rpm to prevent over boost.
Click to expand...
Just an aside here but interestingly, the engine light came on a handful of times on the couple of days before I replaced my pump but there were no codes stored though when I checked.
 
Just a quick update, I got a fault code reader, didn't work, ordered a different one (Icarsoft 930) and read the codes.
Its a low fuel pressure fault on the low pressure side, it's about 250kPa at idle and drops to 150kPa at 2000 rpm so I've gone with the cheapo electric pump I bought being faulty and got a replacement. (Pierburg)
Will fit it this weekend and update.

On a side note, the first reader I bought was an Ancel V6. If you're ever looking, do not buy one.
It wouldn't connect to anything I tried, I was about to send it back when it popped up with a software update 'To fix connectivity issues with some VCI's'. After the software update it would then connect and read the codes, but the datastream is all over the place.
It was reading 36000rpm at idle with an intake temperature of 415 degrees and low pressure fuel pressure of 8000kpa but fluctuating wildly.

The i930 did none of that so it's just half baked software on the readers side. It seems to be a Chinese knockoff of another similar sounding brand that I forget the name of. It's going back.
 
rufusw5 said:
Just a quick update, I got a fault code reader, didn't work, ordered a different one (Icarsoft 930) and read the codes.
Its a low fuel pressure fault on the low pressure side, it's about 250kPa at idle and drops to 150kPa at 2000 rpm so I've gone with the cheapo electric pump I bought being faulty and got a replacement. (Pierburg)
Will fit it this weekend and update.

On a side note, the first reader I bought was an Ancel V6. If you're ever looking, do not buy one.
It wouldn't connect to anything I tried, I was about to send it back when it popped up with a software update 'To fix connectivity issues with some VCI's'. After the software update it would then connect and read the codes, but the datastream is all over the place.
It was reading 36000rpm at idle with an intake temperature of 415 degrees and low pressure fuel pressure of 8000kpa but fluctuating wildly.

The i930 did none of that so it's just half baked software on the readers side. It seems to be a Chinese knockoff of another similar sounding brand that I forget the name of. It's going back.
Click to expand...

Hi

That i930 is good and comes at a decent price.
For the low pressure pump, a lot of guys on the forum do the same mistake, the search button can save you a lot of money ;)
 
Thought I'd post another update on this, the Freelander isnt my only car so other things have just got in the way a bit hence the slow progress.
I will post the solution when I finally get to the bottom of this..

So the (2nd) new low pressure fuel pump didn't fix it, it's still noisy and still dropping pressure on the LP side when revving up until the light comes on at 2200 rpm. So here's the thing, it seemed worse after putting the first new pump on. Before I started it would only really do it occasionally and wouldn't actually put the light on.

Now, new pump is too noisy, sounds like it's struggling so I dug a bit deeper. As we know, I've already had the tank pickup out, checked and cleaned. I blew back into the tank line and it bubbles away easily in the tank, no sign of any blockages.
I pulled the outlet off the pump, stuck a clear pipe on and stuck it in the fuel filler, key on and no sign of bubbles in the line so all good there.
I tried squashing the line and the pump just gets louder, which makes me think there's excess restriction in the fuel pump assembly somewhere - it certainly never has been this loud in the past.
I took it apart and blew down the pipe to the separator, easy flow through the separator as you'd expect (I'd imagine there's nothing in it, just a can to catch sediment and separate water).

The fuel filter on the other hand, seems to need a good blow to get anything to flow, seems to be a lot of restriction - but without measuring it it's kinda guesswork, and I did double check it's in the right way around.

Could I really just have a defective filter? Doesnt seem right but at the same strength you'd think the pump would be pretty quiet with the vehicle side disconnected and just flowing diesel from the tank outlet then back in the filler neck..

I'll try another filter becuase they're cheap and if nothing else it'll rule it out. Thoughts welcome..
 
rufusw5 said:
Thought I'd post another update on this, the Freelander isnt my only car so other things have just got in the way a bit hence the slow progress.
I will post the solution when I finally get to the bottom of this..

So the (2nd) new low pressure fuel pump didn't fix it, it's still noisy and still dropping pressure on the LP side when revving up until the light comes on at 2200 rpm. So here's the thing, it seemed worse after putting the first new pump on. Before I started it would only really do it occasionally and wouldn't actually put the light on.

Now, new pump is too noisy, sounds like it's struggling so I dug a bit deeper. As we know, I've already had the tank pickup out, checked and cleaned. I blew back into the tank line and it bubbles away easily in the tank, no sign of any blockages.
I pulled the outlet off the pump, stuck a clear pipe on and stuck it in the fuel filler, key on and no sign of bubbles in the line so all good there.
I tried squashing the line and the pump just gets louder, which makes me think there's excess restriction in the fuel pump assembly somewhere - it certainly never has been this loud in the past.
I took it apart and blew down the pipe to the separator, easy flow through the separator as you'd expect (I'd imagine there's nothing in it, just a can to catch sediment and separate water).

The fuel filter on the other hand, seems to need a good blow to get anything to flow, seems to be a lot of restriction - but without measuring it it's kinda guesswork, and I did double check it's in the right way around.

Could I really just have a defective filter? Doesnt seem right but at the same strength you'd think the pump would be pretty quiet with the vehicle side disconnected and just flowing diesel from the tank outlet then back in the filler neck..

I'll try another filter becuase they're cheap and if nothing else it'll rule it out. Thoughts welcome..
Click to expand...

If you can't fix, try to change the crank sensor sometimes it works.
For the fuel filter even a cheap britpart one can do the job, got one in my car :D just change it every years.
 
rufusw5 said:
Just looking for some thoughts while I get a code reader.

My 06 TD4 started randomly losing power, by that I mean when accelerating it would hit an RPM wall, seems to have settled on doing it at 2200rpm and the check engine light comes on.

It hadn't had a filter while I've had it and the low pressure pump was noisy so I started there. The replacement pump was even worse.. so I took the pickup out of the tank and cleaned a load of gunk off the strainer, it seems happier now but still not fixed.

I'll get a code reader and see what it says before I dig any deeper. In the meantime, I was just wondering if anyone's had the same issue or has any thoughts on what I'm likely to be looking at?

Also worth mentioning, it gives a puff of white smoke on startup (diesel smoke) and it's a bit stinky - not sure if that's got owt to do with it.

Apart from not revving it starts and runs fine. Right up until this started it was driving spot on.
Click to expand...
I had the same “not revving problem”, turned out to be a crank sensor - see
 
comeinhandy said:
I had the same “not revving problem”, turned out to be a crank sensor - see
Click to expand...

I'm getting a fault for flow fuel pressure when it happens (from the low pressure circuit), and I can see the low side pressure drop to 150kpa at about 2200 RPM so it's definitely something to do with the LP fuel system.
 
rufusw5 said:
I'm getting a fault for flow fuel pressure when it happens (from the low pressure circuit), and I can see the low side pressure drop to 150kpa at about 2200 RPM so it's definitely something to do with the LP fuel system.
Click to expand...

If you're getting only 150kpa on the LP fuel rail, then it needs a new filter and pump. The engine needs 350kpa or more for maximum power.
 
Nodge68 said:
If you're getting only 150kpa on the LP fuel rail, then it needs a new filter and pump. The engine needs 350kpa or more for maximum power.
Click to expand...

Yup, tried this, still the same. Assumed pump was faulty and exchanged it for a better pump, no difference. Details are included a bit further up the thread.
 
So, (2nd) new filter didn't make any difference. This is making no sense, the two low pressure pumps I've tried are both really noisy, like not just on the noisy side for a low pressure pump, like annoying in the cab noisy, in a way that it never was before.

So running the pump outlet straight back into the tank by a clear line showed no sign of air and blowing back into the inlet line showed no sign of restriction and bubbled in the tank nice and easily, yet even running like this the pump was really noisy.

The pump sounds like it has a really bad cavitation problem, it's that sort of noise if you know what I mean. That was why I took the tank pickup out and cleaned it up the first time around.
 
Sorted, when I cleaned the tank pickup I just cleaned the plastic gauze, I hadn't realised there's a metal gauze inside the plastic thing. I took it apart becuase I figured it had to be something to do with the pickup, and there was a LOT of crud on it.

Cleaned it up and we're back to normal, original fuel pump is probably fine so I'll keep it as a spare.
 
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