Paul_uk74

New Member
Hi all

I have a problem with the tailgate on my freelander.

Basically when I unlock the car using the fob to unlock all doors and put the key in the ignition and turn it (dash lights illuminated) The tailgate mechanism activates and the door opens by itself.

It does not happen if I only unlock the drivers door.

Any ideas anyone?

Thankyou and regards
Paul
 
To clarify, the 'door' opens, as in the glass drops and the solenoid lock operates. Not the back window just opening?
 
The window drops as it should and the lock unlocks the door. If I was to drive off the door would open.

When I close it it will not open again until I lock the doors and unlock them again.

The window also does not go back up as it should I have to do that from using the switch inside the car ( only when the weird fault occurs)
 
The back door is under the control of the Central Control Unit. A box that is located down by the fuse box. Sounds like yous might well be knackered. It controls most of the systems in the cabin space as well. I haven't got the info with me at the moment but I also believe it forms the centre of the cars security system. Might be a stealer job to fix I'm afraid. :(
 
Actually, on reflection, it could also be the switch on the back door handle. Might be worth getting inside the door and disconnecting the switch, then trying again with the full unloack sequence. Definately cheaper than the CCU.
 
I can rule out a short in the wires as I ran new ones from the CCU. I can still hear the CCU relay clicking when I have the connector unplugged from the tailgate solenoid.

I removed the CCU from the back of the fuse box and on refitting it the car wont start.

When I turn the ignition over there is just a clicking noise from engine bay.

Any ideas please?
 
I can rule out a short in the wires as I ran new ones from the CCU. I can still hear the CCU relay clicking when I have the connector unplugged from the tailgate solenoid.

I removed the CCU from the back of the fuse box and on refitting it the car wont start.

When I turn the ignition over there is just a clicking noise from engine bay.

Any ideas please?

could, just could be, a flat main battery, and the clicking is the solenoid. might be worth trying a jump start.
 
Yes you are right mate.

Got a mate to pop round and its now all sorted.

Just the tailgate to still sort out now.

I am thinking it may be the CCU.

Does anyone know how much that will set me back?
 
From what you say I would change the battery first prior to anything else as when you get low voltage it can cause some of the problems you have.
 
funny you should say that..

After I got the car started and took it for a 30 min spin to charge the battery I got back home and parked up. I turned the ignition off and used the remote to unlock the passenger door. I then tried the key in the ignition again and the tailgate unlocking mech went crazy clicking the latch....

It only used to do it once before this.

How would a suspect battery cause this?
 
The vehicle electronics are somewhat confused

Is the vehicle 3 or 5 door?

Normal battery voltage (engine off) should be 12.2 to 12.8 volts. Note: voltage will be a lot higher immediately after stopping the engine so wait a while or turn on headlights briefly to stabilise the voltage.

If it is a 3 door. I would concentrate on checking the operation of the roof switch and the switches related to the rear door handle before changing the CCU.
 
It is 3 door.

I disconnected the connectors from the door lock and the latch switch and the relay in the CCU still operated with the passenger door unlocked.

I can try the roof switches and I can test the battery tomorrow. :)

I didnt think of the roof switch. I didnt see that being an issue as the window doesnt drop unexpectedly.

I has to be something silly like that thought doesnt it..... hopefully anyway..

I am thinking of selling it once I get it sorted.
 
You could throw a lot of cash away on this one and get nowhere. I'm sure you're correct about it being something silly. My best guess is a bad earth somewhere related to what you say about CCU relay going crazy. Wander around the vehicle cleaning and tightening earth points(remember that a bad earth on a vehicle will cause the circuit to search around the vehicle for an acceptable earth path anywhere it can find one ultimately causing chaos in the donor circuit) I,m sure we've all been behind vehicles which flash the indicators every time they brake etc. Good luck. D..
 
To be honest I did not try putting a new earth connection to it yesterday. I only tried a new positive from the CCU.

I did notice that the earth connection to the connector was jointed with silver crimps with other earth wires onto a thicker earth cable.
 
In cases like this, the circuit giving problems e.g. your tailgate circuit, is not necessarily faulty but is being made to fault by another circuit robbing an earth path from it. The clue here is the fact that strange things happen when you turn on the ignition if I read you correctly. Therefore I would check all earths related to the engine management system (The 'RAVE' manual will be invaluable). D..
 
sorted it.

The plug that connects to the handle was wet and that is where it was shorting.

Thanks for the help and advice guys.

Much appreciated
 
I would still of tried a new battery first, you will probably have to buy one soon anyway.
If you disconnect your battery, when you re-connect it the rear window opens, so a low voltage from a flat battery could cause this, I don't know if it would cause the door to open though.
 
ianda12...

My fault has been rectified and I didnt have to spend any money...

I dont know if phil had the same problem as me, I think he was just answering me when I wanted to know how much a new CCU costs :)

I have sold the bloody thing and will be picking up a 2003 Volvo S40 on Saturday.

The Freelander was a nightmare IMO.
 

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