D

Dissapointed

New Member
Hi,

Just change the H/G on my 2000 1.8 Freelander. Now the damn thing refuses to start on the key.
Engine turns over OK, good spark, loads of fuel. Drag it down the road - starts but runs a bit lumpy and won't rev until it warms up. Had the electrics checked - all OK.

Apart from "burn it" any suggestions?

:confused:
 
Get back to basics, check dizzy cap, order of leads, timing. Crank should be at 12oclock, reading left to right, inlet cam, EXHAUST - IN, exhaust cam, EXHAUST - IN. No oth. Its ok to be out by a tooth.er combination
 
Timing appears to be OK - replaced distrubutor cap, rotor arm, leads & plugs.
Double checked firing order. Used modified H/G (four times thicker than the original) - would this have an adverse effect on compression?
 
Checked all connections. Had mobile diagnostics to check out electrics - nothing wrong there. When you spin her over on the key she fires once then nothing. When bump started ticks over - missing like a pig, won't rev, stinks of petrol. as it warms up, can then rev engine but as soon as you go to pull off it stalls. Will not restart on key. Instinct tells me that it's a timing fault, but the timing is bang on. Anyone know what the compressin is supposed to be on these engines? Seems low to me (on all four around 100) - could this be the problem?
 
Its common for people to have the crank at the vertical 12 oclock position and have the cams 180 degrees out, it means the engine wont start, timing up the left.
Another one is the crank at 90 degrees out so it is alligned with the 1st mark on the timing cover, and cams spot on, again it will run but rough as a dog.

If diagnostics didnt show anything then your sensors are fine.

Reset the stepper motor, throttle position sensor (rarely needed to be done).

Turn ignition to position II, so dash lights are on. Press accelerator to the floor 5 times in succession, switch off ignition.............job done!

On the MEMS management system, the Throttle position sensor/stepper motor completely shuts for 30 seconds after stalling or engine switch off.

Its a potentiometer mechanism, so ECU locks it in the closed position.
This is to prevent the engine running on after switch off. If you try to restart the engine it wont! Leave it for 30 secs, try again.
 
Hi Northern Irelander - thanks for the advice - i'll try resetting tomorrow (battery flat as witches tit at present and it's raining again!). I'll let you know how I get on - if all else fails, I'll pull the head back off and start again!!

Thanks again, Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Freelander loss of power then stopped
Replies
1
Views
367
saxavordian
saxavordian
davidcarretero
Freelander 1 TD4 continues running after key removed
Replies
7
Views
878
davidcarretero
davidcarretero
D
Freelander won't start
Replies
17
Views
2K
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
poor first start in the morning
Replies
2
Views
917
Arctic2
Arctic2
F
My 2006 Freelander TD4 Commerical
Replies
2
Views
124
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel