Having seen all the newer and up-to-date cars running around with the latest LED Daytime-Running lights, thinking they are a good idea - especially when approaching blind junctions… , I decided to modify my 2006 Freelander Td4 – 3 doors, to include the same, using existing lights.
I first bought a pair of H11 LED Fog-Lamps on Ebay, cheap from China – taking about 1 month to arrive.
I then set out to modify the standard Fog-Lamp wiring so I could switch them ON or OFF during the day, or whenever, without the need to have other lights working too. In other words, with the ignition ON I could have them ON, without the need for additional side or head-lights.
I went to Fuse No F39 in the main Fuse-Box beneath the dashboard, removing the 10 Amp (blue) fuse.
I discovered F40 was free of any fuse, correctly considering it to be a redundant circuit. Testing for a voltage supply I found it was an Ignition-switch controlled 12v output, which was suitable for supplying a working voltage while the engine was running.
The top connector of F40 was the 12v positive, and being Ignition Switch controlled meant it would suit the purpose of supplying a voltage to the fog lamps instead of the F39.
Using Male Spade-connectors, I basically connected an in-line 10 Amp fuse between the F40 Ignition-Controlled positive (top connection) to the lower connection of F39.
With the Ignition switched on I could now switch the Fog-Lamps ON or Off as I wanted.
Once tested with the standard Halogen lamps, to ascertain all was good-to-go, I replaced those bulbs with the LED lamps.
I now have two very bright & white Fog-Lights that resemble modern Daytime-Running lights that use very little electricity while letting others see my presence.
If any reader of this has a Haynes Workshop Manual, for the 1997 to 2006 Freelander, you can find the appropriate circuit-diagram (schematic) on page 12.66
I hope I haven’t confused anyone with my explanation. I’m aware things can seem simple to those who already know a system, while being confusing to those who do not… typical of many manuals for anything electrical/mechanical.
I first bought a pair of H11 LED Fog-Lamps on Ebay, cheap from China – taking about 1 month to arrive.
I then set out to modify the standard Fog-Lamp wiring so I could switch them ON or OFF during the day, or whenever, without the need to have other lights working too. In other words, with the ignition ON I could have them ON, without the need for additional side or head-lights.
I went to Fuse No F39 in the main Fuse-Box beneath the dashboard, removing the 10 Amp (blue) fuse.
I discovered F40 was free of any fuse, correctly considering it to be a redundant circuit. Testing for a voltage supply I found it was an Ignition-switch controlled 12v output, which was suitable for supplying a working voltage while the engine was running.
The top connector of F40 was the 12v positive, and being Ignition Switch controlled meant it would suit the purpose of supplying a voltage to the fog lamps instead of the F39.
Using Male Spade-connectors, I basically connected an in-line 10 Amp fuse between the F40 Ignition-Controlled positive (top connection) to the lower connection of F39.
With the Ignition switched on I could now switch the Fog-Lamps ON or Off as I wanted.
Once tested with the standard Halogen lamps, to ascertain all was good-to-go, I replaced those bulbs with the LED lamps.
I now have two very bright & white Fog-Lights that resemble modern Daytime-Running lights that use very little electricity while letting others see my presence.
If any reader of this has a Haynes Workshop Manual, for the 1997 to 2006 Freelander, you can find the appropriate circuit-diagram (schematic) on page 12.66
I hope I haven’t confused anyone with my explanation. I’m aware things can seem simple to those who already know a system, while being confusing to those who do not… typical of many manuals for anything electrical/mechanical.