I don't have a list of hot measurements to compare. I think I did this years ago but can't find it. The figures all seem to have moved by the same approx. percentage.
When you drive it for 30 mins to get it to F4 fail... how many times has it changed gear ok during this period? Are you driving round residential and stopping stationary every minute then pulling away? What's the mileage ont dash?
A difficult problem. The fault doesn't happen often enough to prove outright and when it does it doesn't show up easily via resistance checks. The only way forward on this is to read the current error codes int engine, gearbox and abs computers. Then clear them all. Then take it for a drive until the fault occurs and see what codes become available in the 3 computers. If it were mine I'd be tempted to check it again when warm before F4 fault appears, to see if there's any codes before this, then drive it until F4 then check again. Not having a codes reader is going to be a small problem here. Not sure what's available on your side of the planet. I refer to checking these 3 computers together because it's the engine computer that asks the auto computer to change gears. The auto computer then does this if it can, depending on certain factors/references. The whole process is dependent on a number of things, some of this referenced against signals from the abs computer. It's a lot more complex than this but it's the way to go checking all 3 as yer never know what hint's yer may get from logged fault codes.
Over hear we have the original hawkeye (licensed to specific model types as per what the owner purchased) or the hawkeye total which does all LR's on their current list (thems with odb2 connector). We also have autologic and similar professional use devices but these are normally only available at garages as they cost thousands to buy. I'm told autologic will do this but not seen it myself. There are a number of other cheaper devices on the market which promise a lot, but often we find they don't forefill the promise. T4 test book is available as per what LR dealers have but the only versions of this in private hands have often been "filtered" from garages. Especially when rover dealers closed int uk when rover collapsed. Lynx is also available but I don't know which model from their range to use and have never seen it being used. Diagnostic device is a bit of a mine field as some state they've seen something work which others can't get working. Hence why I always mention if I've seen it work or not. Video proof ont web isn't available for a lot of these devices. Especially on the FL1 and general LR products. Proof or it din't happen...
So with this in mind yer kind of stuck without a diagnostic. Anything you change or do will be just a guess. I can't see a way forward of resolving this. The 2-3 up shift is likely to be one of the solenoids. Two of them change state on this shift as well as the usual pressure switching etc. You could change them all but there's no guarantee that will solve the F4 problem at the same time. I don't like advising peeps to spend money unless I can see a clear benefit to the spend. Unless it's a cheap spend or process of elimination with a logic condition in mind. 2-3 problem may be fixed or become less prominent with an auto oil change. Not sure if yer done this already. There's a specific way to do it as mentioned on LZ.
Can you have a feel of the auto gearbox wiring harness to check it's not caught on anything. Betterer still try to get a look at it for damage, cuts, burnt insulation etc. Also make sure the barrel connectors are clean inside. Small cotton ear buds or the yellow pipe cleaners (which I used to make spiders when little) are good anorl. Something small to poke in and clean with alcohol or similar only. If yer have used contact cleaner etc then this ideally needs wiped oft as it often leaves a layer on the surface which is a potential insulator between the pins/sockets. Ensure the wires are secured into the pin/barrel too by giving them a gentle tug. Also do the same to the connectors on the auto gearbox computer. Check none of them are loose and slide out of the blue strip connector shown in the resistance video. Also check the pins on the computer side for damage/clean etc.