Greggynormous

New Member
Landies and gentlemoans.
It has been a while since my last post - there's been a pandemic going on ...
Hilarity apart though I have more grief with my 07 FL2 and am hoping for little feedback from the hive. The car is a 2.2 HSE, in great shape and came to me with 106k on the odo and a full history (part main Stealer and part indy) . 1500 miles later the PTU failed and my local indy took over 2k of my hard earned to replace it and a farked EGR, and full transmission and Haldex oil change. I realise now that I'd probably been well trousered and should have really done it myself.. Anyway in the storms late last year we ended up going through some pretty deep water after which the transmission started to make all sorts of nasty creaking and banging noises, not bad in straight line but horrible when turning and worse turning in reverse - but oddly no lights on the dash.
My first thought was that the ECU may have got wet but I'm also preparing myself for the other mechanicals to be at fault too. In the short term I've just pulled the propshaft and left it in front wheel drive, but I'm probably going to start the diagnostic in a week or so.
The other half of the question is about the Haldex itself though. I understand that it is basically an electronically controlled wet clutch (I'm a biker so understand how they work) that engages and disengages the rear diff when FWD traction is called for by the TCS. But - does it also control the drive to each of the rest wheels? If the Haldex is engaged is there any 'slip' in the rear diff or is it effectively locked?
I'm sorry if this is a bit of a daft question but I'm new to this Landy lark and this is also the first 4x4 I've owned - I don't really want it to be the last...!
As usual any feedback would be really appreciated.
 
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Landies and gentlemoans.
It has been a while since my last post - there's been a pandemic going on ...
Hilarity apart though I have more grief with my 07 FL2 and am hoping for little feedback from the hive. The car is a 2.2 HSE, in great shape and came to me with 106k on the odo and a full history (part main Stealer and part indy) . 1500 miles later the PTU failed and my local indy took over 2k of my hard earned to replace it and a farked EGR, and full transmission and Haldex oil change. I realise now that I'd probably been well trousered and should have really done it myself.. Anyway in the storms late last year we ended up going through some pretty deep water after which the transmission started to make all sorts of nasty creaking and banging noises, not bad in straight line but horrible when turning and worse turning in reverse - but oddly no lights on the dash.
My first thought was that the ECU may have got wet but I'm also preparing myself for the other mechanicals to be at fault too. In the short term I've just pulled the propshaft and left it in front wheel drive, but I'm probably going to start the diagnostic in a week or so.
The other half of the question is about the Haldex itself though. I understand that it is basically an electronically controlled wet clutch (I'm a biker so understand how they work) that engages and disengages the rear diff when FWD traction is called for by the TCS. But - does it also control the drive to each of the rest wheels? If the Haldex is engaged is there any 'slip' in the rear diff or is it effectively locked?
I'm sorry if this is a bit of a daft question but I'm new to this Landy lark and this is also the first 4x4 I've owned - I don't really want it to be the last...!
As usual any feedback would be really appreciated.

Effectively the haldex is a wet multiplate clutch which is fitted on the prop shaft input to the rear diff, so when it is disengaged then the rear wheels are not driven the car is front wheel drive only, when it engages then all four wheels are driven, it doesn't drive the rear wheels individually, it just connects and disconnects the rear prop shaft.
 
I have more grief with my 07 FL2 and am hoping for little feedback from the hive. The car is a 2.2 HSE, in great shape and came to me with 106k on the odo and a full history (part main Stealer and part indy) .
Not always the best maintenance in my experience. :(
1500 miles later the PTU failed and my local indy took over 2k of my hard earned to replace it and a farked EGR, and full transmission and Haldex oil change. I realise now that I'd probably been well trousered and should have really done it myself..
Wow. That's a ridiculous amount of cash, for what isn't a difficult DIY job, although weather and working conditions make the jobs unpleasant.
Anyway in the storms late last year we ended up going through some pretty deep water after which the transmission started to make all sorts of nasty creaking and banging noises, not bad in straight line but horrible when turning and worse turning in reverse - but oddly no lights on the dash.
My first question would be. Was the main drive spline link replaced, when the PTU was done? It's another expense, but it's know to strip, and the cause for the PTU failure to begin with. What quality PTU was fitted?
My guess is this rip off garage did a half job, or no job at all.
I've just pulled the propshaft and left it in front wheel drive, but I'm probably going to start the diagnostic in a week or so.
Unfortunately you're going to have to go through everything really carefully, as there's no guarantee that anything is done right these days, regardless of how much it cost you. :(
I'd start by checking the fluid levels and quality at the PTU, and work my way rearward.
Your problem could be with the electronic hand brake
A 2007 FL2 uses a proper hand operated parking brake. The EPB didn't come along until 2013.
;)
 

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