Hi there, what a fantastic resource and brilliant Forum! I'm Very impressed..
I have an 02 plate freelander TD4, with some issues. I bought the vehicle after finding it stored in a garage for the last five or so years. I think I am beginning to realise why! Its literally just been MOT'd and is road worthy. It took a bit including a new VCU and blocking off the rear wiper, but its done. Ive got some issues though with the tailgate and dashboard.
I have followed the advice given in some of the threads Ive found so I apologise if Ive missed any..here goes..

The tailgate is locked shut. There is a warning light on the dashboard saying that it is open. The tailgate window mechanism is renewed but was stuck in the 'up' position until yesterday. The dashboard switches for the central locking, fog lamp, tailgate window are not working but the switches have been tested and are ok. The tailgate washer and wiper motor switches are also not working (Hence removal for MOT).
All the fuses and relays appear to be working, I have swapped the relays around and its not changing the picture.

Yesterday, I disconnected the battery to try and do a tailgate window reset. The window dropped as per the norm but refused to go back up again. I have had to disconnect the window from the frame and jam it up.
I also tried to do the diagnostic mode test (key in the ignition and hold fog lamp) but since the fog lamp is no longer working it will not go into test mode.
I have reconnected the window wiper motor and oiled the lock mechanism from the back. I haven't tried to disassemble the latch yet, I really do not want to, it looks like a hellish job with the door shut.

What am I missing?? The door mechanism worked until it didn't in the garage who MOT'd the car for me, the window also worked until the garage disconnected the motor and removed the wiper and motor. The fog lamp also worked fine for its MOT last week..

The mechanic said he disconnected a black connector in the tailgate, but I cannot find one. I have three connectors that I can find. Wiper motor, Regulator and lock.

Any help or advice would be gratefully received, I am at a loss now.

The tail door window is a troublesome beast.
Is the interior light going out when you close the door? If not then the lock mechanism needs replaced as that is where the switch is. Don't wast time trying to fix it as you probably won't. I've tried on two cars and failed but a used one off ebay did the job fine.
Why did you need to "block off the rear wiper"?

The mechanic reckoned he couldn't get the switch to work and then decided the motor was duff. Rather than go fault finding it was a quick fix.. I cant open the door so interior lights cant/won't work..

Unless you're familiar with Freelander boot doors you can spend hours messing about with them and I suspect he knew that and couldn't be bothered chasing it. You'd have had to pay for his time too. I spent two days chasing a fault on mine which turned out to be the connection to the handle.
You need to get the door open and get the door card off before you can do any more fault finding.

That's what I kinda thought, I really do not want to dismantle the door latch from the inside. It is a mixture of torque bolts and phillips heads as well as being in a bugger of a place..
I did take he handle off and have off and have a look at the wiring, all seemed to be ok, although wet under the plastic.. otherwise all good.

Once you have the door card off it is fairly easy to open the door. Just reach in with a long screwdriver or similar and push down the soleniod.

I think you might need to remove the bottom torx screw first you can see in the top image here then the solenoid should be loose allowing you to pull it down which should release the lock.

Thank you so much, that's brilliant! Exactly what I need.
I take it the top unit is the cover for the mechanism underneath? If so then I should see the rubber gator and be able to pull this down to release the lock? hopefully access from inside the door will be straight forward without having to take out the window mechanism again.. thinking out loud!

The photo shows two pics of the same mechanism just different sides, the lower one shows the side screwed to the door so you have no access to it, the upper one is what you will see. There is only one torx screw holding the solenoid so once you remove it the solenoid should pull down with a bit of faffing about. It's quite a while since I had to do it but I think this is correct.

If the car thinks the door is open then either you have a broken wire, the mechanic disconnected one of the two leads going to the mechanism or it is faulty, probably the latter.

I'm thinking that he might have disconnected the plug and forgotten to mention the top one . I have re connected the bottom one but from the pic there seems to be a blue plug socket about half way up. I cant say I have seen this connected... he also mentioned a black plug that connects into the lock but I have yet to see a black one or any other connector other than the white one at the bottom of the unit. Just because I have not seen another plug, that doesn't mean there isnt one...

The white connector is the trigger for the door lock mechanism. You lift the handle activating a micro switch which sends a 5V signal to the ECU which then sends 12V to the white connector, It also tells the window to drop a couple of cm. The blue one which you can just about see in the bottom pic is the door open/closed switch connector.
The door should still open with it disconnected but I don't think the window will drop. If your door isn't opening then the problem is either broken wire in the loom probably at the door hinge, or the connection to the handle or a faulty mechanism. My problem was intermittent and turned out to be the connection to the door handle. I just squished the connector pins with a pair of pointy pliers and it's been fine since.

I will dismantle it and let you know, do you think that this would cause a fault with the switches on the dashboard??

The tailgate wiper won't work if the car thinks the boot door is open so it should be fine once that is fixed, as for the others it sounds like a fuse to me but would need to check..

I have tried and tested all the fuses, I took the fuse box out and cleaned it. checked each terminal and squeezed them as well. I also checked the fuses under the bonnet of the vehicle and all good there too. All connectors are good and I have checked most of the earths. The one on the drivers side rear was about three quarters off, but I tightened it up and tested it, all good. I will have a look at the door latch this afternoon and see whats going on, will post pics as I go through. Hopefully it is as simple as a connector being off but if its not, at least I should be able to get the door opened.. cross finger please!! And thank you so much for your advice, its very greatly appreciated.