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BenJG

New Member
Hi all, I'm wondering if it's possible to fit a steering wheel with audio controls to a 5 door Freelander 2.0 TD4 Freestyle 2006. This one didn't come with audio controls, however I've seen steering wheels with audio controls from similar types of model and was wondering if there was any issues with the existing wiring in my model, or just if it's possible at all.

The stereo I'm using is an aftermarket Pioneer HUD unit (not the original Land Rover unit) which does accept audio steering wheel controllers, so that bit isn't a problem.

Cheers
 
BenJG said:
Hi all, I'm wondering if it's possible to fit a steering wheel with audio controls to a 5 door Freelander 2.0 TD4 Freestyle 2006. This one didn't come with audio controls, however I've seen steering wheels with audio controls from similar types of model and was wondering if there was any issues with the existing wiring in my model, or just if it's possible at all.

The stereo I'm using is an aftermarket Pioneer HUD unit (not the original Land Rover unit) which does accept audio steering wheel controllers, so that bit isn't a problem.

Cheers
Click to expand...
BenJG said:
Hi all, I'm wondering if it's possible to fit a steering wheel with audio controls to a 5 door Freelander 2.0 TD4 Freestyle 2006. This one didn't come with audio controls, however I've seen steering wheels with audio controls from similar types of model and was wondering if there was any issues with the existing wiring in my model, or just if it's possible at all.

The stereo I'm using is an aftermarket Pioneer HUD unit (not the original Land Rover unit) which does accept audio steering wheel controllers, so that bit isn't a problem.

Cheers
Click to expand...
I think the only problem you may have is if your model doesn't have the wiring fitted between your head unit and the steering wheel.
 
And you'd still need a steering control harness for your head unit and patch lead. :)
 
Nodge68 said:
The wiring should be there. Iirc only the wheel switches are missing.
Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge68. Just to clarify do you know if this model had the right wiring/capability for volume controls; regardless of whether the steering wheel fitted had the controllers on it? That's essentially my question. Does anyone know if there's a way to find out? I don't know much about car electrics!
 
Panic Over said:
I think the only problem you may have is if your model doesn't have the wiring fitted between your head unit and the steering wheel.
Click to expand...

That was actually my question. I want to know if anyone knows if the wiring/ ability to do so is there.
 
If you have a look in the Rave manual it has wiring diagrams. If you look on the wiring diagram for the connector the steering switches connect to - then there's another part if Rave giving pictures of all the connectors so you can visualise where they are (should be). You can then check on your car if they are there.

If the Technical section of the Freelander forum there's a thread on where to get Rave.
 
I think they all have the wiring present. It goes from the coupler in the steering wheel, (under the airbag), to the connector at the rear of the stereo. When I replaced the bog standard steering wheel in my 2003 model, with the multifunction steering wheel, all I had to do was connect the additional switch in the steering wheel to the steering column coupler, and the audio remote controls worked with my Land Rover Stereo straight away. It's just a simple resistor ladder in the volume/station controls. You can get a converter that you will need to make it work with the Pioneer units. The coupler has 6 lines I think from memory, used for the Horn, Stereo, and Cruise Control. (at the moment I'm using the redundant CC lines for the horn, as the ones feeding mine seem to have broken, and it saved me having to buy another coupler, (which you can only seem to buy from breakers now).
 
Many thanks all! I guess I'll have to remove the steering wheel to have a look at the wiring with someone that knows what they're doing. I've seen a few s/h steering wheels for the same type of Freelander on Ebay (with the audio switches). Just out of curiosity does anyone know a firm in (around) London that can fit this kind of thing- if I get hold of a steering wheel with the controls? I'm not an expert on this and don't have the time to do it. I'm west London but no probs re distance. I'd love to get that sorted out. The Pioneer sph-da120 I had installed works an absolute treat, but no volume controls on the steering wheel is a bit of a 'mare! Cheers, Ben
 
BenJG said:
Many thanks all! I guess I'll have to remove the steering wheel to have a look at the wiring with someone that knows what they're doing. I've seen a few s/h steering wheels for the same type of Freelander on Ebay (with the audio switches). Just out of curiosity does anyone know a firm in (around) London that can fit this kind of thing- if I get hold of a steering wheel with the controls? I'm not an expert on this and don't have the time to do it. I'm west London but no probs re distance. I'd love to get that sorted out. The Pioneer sph-da120 I had installed works an absolute treat, but no volume controls on the steering wheel is a bit of a 'mare! Cheers, Ben
Click to expand...

You will only need the switchs and trim the plastic on the wheel to fit them. All wiring should be present. All you'll need is to connect the wiring to the HU via an adaptor box. It's not a difficult job to be honest. I don't know anywhere in W London to do the work, but most auto electricians should do it without an issue.
 
+1 on what Nodge says. You can just fit the switches to your existing wheel if you want. Or just change the whole wheel to save cutting holes. Dead simple to do. Disconnect the battery and leave for a good half hour or more to let the airbag discharge. Then remove the two screws accessible from under the wheel, that hold the airbag in the wheel. It should then just lift off easily, leaving the wheel in situ. You'll then see the connector in the wheel, and the mount that holds the switches. Either add your switches in, or, with the wheel set straight ahead, undo the big nut in the middle the wheel, and just swap over the whole wheel with a new one that has the switches already mounted. Connect to the coupler, replace the nut (recommended to use a new nut), and replace the airbag. If you have an original LR stereo at the moment, the controls will just work. If not, you have to add one of those readily available converters to get the LR controls to hook up to the 3.5mm plug Pioneer use on their stereos for remote control. Including the time to let the airbag discharge, the who job should be doable in a hour/hour-and-a-half.
 
Sorry to resurrect this but, I took my 2001 TD4 GS that had the 770 radio cassette unit fitted to a car audio specialist. Had a Kenwood Bluetooth radio fitted. He had to order the patch lead as they cannot be bought from the likes of halfraud. Anyway, he spent two hours fitting it all and told me a dongle would be also be necessary as there was a problem with the volume control. Yesterday I took the car back for the 10 minute dongle fitting. Took another two hours only to find that he now has to order a custom made patch lead that will do the trick. I was speaking to the old chap that works for him and he said that he believes that it's the steering wheel controls that are at fault. I'll be having the new patch lead fitted, but, is there a common problem with the steering wheel controls? They worked OK before.
 
Worked ok before with what though?

The switches in the steering wheel are a simple resistor ladder. When pressed they create a specific voltage that controls the Land Rover (which I think are Philips made) stereos. To have the controls work with another make of stereo you'll need a converter, which essentially changes the Land Rover voltage levels to those required by the new make of stereo fitted. Something like this
https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/aut...der-steering-wheel-control-stalk-adaptor.html would probably do the trick.

Do you have the old Land Rover stereo you can quickly switch back in to eliminate the switches being at fault?
 
I'm soon to change my stereo. I've been putting it off because I will need to modify my resistive ladder first. The LR ladder uses much lower value resistances than most after market stereos.
For example. My Sony that is due to go in needs to see a different set of residence values (in brackets) than the factory Visteon that is currently fitted.
The factory values are on the left. My Sony is in brackets.
Volume down 0 Ohms (24 K Ohm)
Volume up 390 Ohms (16 K Ohm)
Search up. 860 Ohms (8 K Ohm)
Search down 1680 Ohms. (11.25 K Ohm)
So you can see that not only are the resistances different overall. But the value isn't constant across all controls. So for my Sony, I need to use an active network conversion box. This adds about £50 to the cost. However it's possible to change the resistors in the wheel switches to the correct values. This will take a bit of work, so will wait until I have the time.
 
4Bee4Bee said:
Worked ok before with what though?

The 770 radio cassette that was factory fitted.

The switches in the steering wheel are a simple resistor ladder. When pressed they create a specific voltage that controls the Land Rover (which I think are Philips made) stereos. To have the controls work with another make of stereo you'll need a converter, which essentially changes the Land Rover voltage levels to those required by the new make of stereo fitted. Something like this
https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/aut...der-steering-wheel-control-stalk-adaptor.html would probably do the trick.

Do you have the old Land Rover stereo you can quickly switch back in to eliminate the switches being at fault?
Click to expand...

I think that they are fitting all those widgets. I've paid £160 for a Kenwood BT302 Bluetooth/Ipod/USB Receiver, fitted, allowing me to use the controls.
Yes, we still have the old Philips Radio Cassette.

Nodge68 said:
I'm soon to change my stereo. I've been putting it off because I will need to modify my resistive ladder first. The LR ladder uses much lower value resistances than most after market stereos.
For example. My Sony that is due to go in needs to see a different set of residence values (in brackets) than the factory Visteon that is currently fitted.
The factory values are on the left. My Sony is in brackets.
Volume down 0 Ohms (24 K Ohm)
Volume up 390 Ohms (16 K Ohm)
Search up. 860 Ohms (8 K Ohm)
Search down 1680 Ohms. (11.25 K Ohm)
So you can see that not only are the resistances different overall. But the value isn't constant across all controls. So for my Sony, I need to use an active network conversion box. This adds about £50 to the cost. However it's possible to change the resistors in the wheel switches to the correct values. This will take a bit of work, so will wait until I have the time.
Click to expand...

That's what the old chap ( Ha, old chap, probably only a couple of years on me ) was saying, resistances were different.
I'm afraid it's way over my head.
I just wondered if anyone had heard of the controls going wrong?
 
Last edited:
I've got to ask again, has anyone else had a problem with the steering controls. If not, apart from buying another wheel, where would I go to have it fixed.
The problem is that the volume control turns up the sound but when you try to turn it down strange things happen that have nothing to do with the volume..
Help!!!
 
Panic Over said:
I've got to ask again, has anyone else had a problem with the steering controls. If not, apart from buying another wheel, where would I go to have it fixed.
The problem is that the volume control turns up the sound but when you try to turn it down strange things happen that have nothing to do with the volume..
Help!!!
Click to expand...

Sounds like a resistance mismatch to me. I have a similar issue with my Sony. The only way I can think of correcting my issue, is to fit a different set of resistors to the controls.
 
Last edited:
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