Hi, paper work seems to show it was well serviced not sure last date, only light on is Abs not check any of the mentioned and it seems to run fine and I've just order a reader to see if I can get anything up just trying to find out if its anything major before I start replacing the usual thinks like brakes and tyres
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Tyres and brakes aren't going to cause the engine to run rough.
So does it jump about as you are trying to drive the vehicle?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I know you say you know about IRD issues, but there's a lot of conflicting info about it out there and as you're new to Freelanders its worth having a quick read of this...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
If it drives OK and is in decent condition, I'd say you're juddering/bouncing is well worth fixing as its probably relatively cheap serviceable items as Nodge says.
Dunno what code reader you've got but it will need to be a Freelander capable one - especially if you want to read the ABS codes. Your standard ODBII dongles usually only talk to the engine's ECU and Freelander isn't particularly compatible, although you may have luck with a 2001 car. The ABS light codes can only be read from the ABS ECU though not the engine's.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
If it drives OK and is in decent condition, I'd say you're juddering/bouncing is well worth fixing as its probably relatively cheap serviceable items as Nodge says.
Dunno what code reader you've got but it will need to be a Freelander capable one - especially if you want to read the ABS codes. Your standard ODBII dongles usually only talk to the engine's ECU and Freelander isn't particularly compatible, although you may have luck with a 2001 car. The ABS light codes can only be read from the ABS ECU though not the engine's.
Thanks for advice hopefully it's nothing to bad as it's in very good condition for age and has been well looked after only ever failed 1 mot and that was break pipe just seems a waste to go to the grave yard if it's a fairly cheap fix
Thanks again will update as and when I find out anything
Thanks again will update as and when I find out anything
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Bleeding is done from the engine side of the bulkhead - there's a bleed screw there that you can open with a coin or summat.
I have to say, opening that screw always gets the air out of my (diesel motor) matrix.
If you have rubber mats, lift the passenger one and see if there is any water under it. The heater matrixes corrode and leak making the passenger footwell damp. Mine is ringing wet under the mat. Been like it for a while, need to sort it!
I have to say, opening that screw always gets the air out of my (diesel motor) matrix.
If you have rubber mats, lift the passenger one and see if there is any water under it. The heater matrixes corrode and leak making the passenger footwell damp. Mine is ringing wet under the mat. Been like it for a while, need to sort it!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
There is another bleed screw on one of the copper pipes below the battery if I recall correctly.
You need to keep a beedy eye on the coolant level as 1.8K series cars have a bad habit of blowing head gaskets.
Having said that, because they have a bad name other faults are often wrongly attributed to HG failure by lazy or ignorant mechanics.
You need to keep a beedy eye on the coolant level as 1.8K series cars have a bad habit of blowing head gaskets.
Having said that, because they have a bad name other faults are often wrongly attributed to HG failure by lazy or ignorant mechanics.
