thehulkowner
New Member
yes just drops in!! might even raise your top speed to 13mph Its got to be worth a go??
If you need help i know a chap that will come help you!!
Tally HO
Al
If you need help i know a chap that will come help you!!
Tally HO
Al
fenby1976
New Member
I did this conversion to my Series III in 2005. I bought the engine complete with a Phillips-Milner adapter (This is a replacement flywheel housing) and with special engine mounts bolted to the block, for £150. The kit also came with an offside engine mount to be welded to the chassis. To do the conversion you need to make several alterations, these include: cutting and boxing the bulkhead (offside footwell to clear starter motor, centre of the bulkhead to clear the adaptor, nearside footwell to clear the exhaust manifold); The battery either has to be relocated or the battery tray must be modified so that it's removable, (that's what I did) in order to fit the engine and have access to the alternator; The exhaust downpipe has to be modified; The sump drain plug needs to be relocated; You will need an electric fan. When I bought the engine it was fitted in a Land Rover and no bulkhead modifications had been made, but the engine was fouling the bulkhead. It is annoying that the engine almost fits in with no bulkhead mods, but to do the conversion properly you will have to chop the bulkhead about.
After fitting this engine I had a very carefull look at the installation and realised that the front differential would hit the engine when the front suspension was fully compressed. The point of contact would have been the big aluminium casting that is bolted to the front of the block. I trimmed a bit off this casting and all was well. I also noticed that on full suspension compression the front propshaft would hit the flywheel housing, so a bit had to be trimmed off that too.
I have done about 6000 miles since the conversion and have done about 20 greenlaning trips with it. The engine does not go quite as well as a 2 1/4 petrol, but it will get up to just short of 80 mph (7.50 x 16 tyres, no overdrive) on the flat. The mpg is about 30. All in all I am very pleased with the conversion, but I would not do it again. So many modifications are needed to get it to fit and I do worry about the timing belt snapping when wading through deep water, as the timing case is not and cannot be sealed. Having said that I, have done a river crossing, on the Strata Florida lane, with water coming over the bonnet, without any problems. Another problem that should be solved is that Flywheel housing is not sealed, this could be done but would need some ingenuity. I can't help thinking that a Land Rover 2.5 N/A diesel is the best diesel engine for a series LR - It is designed for offroading i.e. sealed timing case and flywheel housing and it bolts straight onto the gearbox. I believe that the Series III manifolds will bolt onto the head so you can use a standard downpipe and oil bath filter and pipework. Another significant problem is that the Transit engine is ear splittingly noisy. I drove it for quite a while with no soundproofing, but if you don't want to damage your hearing or wear ear plugs then you need some sort of sound proofing.
In conclusion I would say that if you don't intend to drive the vehicle into deep muddy water, you really love Transit engines, you can weld and are prepared to tinker around making everything work, then fit a Transit engine. If want to do the cheapest and least time consuming engine conversion, don't mind having a slightly less efficient engine, want a really tidy installation, then sell your Transit engine and get a 2.5 N/A Land Rover engine.
Beware - The transit engine will not fit a series IIA gearbox bellhousing as the clutch slave cylinder will foul the starter motor. This is probably the case for Series I and II bellhousings too.
After fitting this engine I had a very carefull look at the installation and realised that the front differential would hit the engine when the front suspension was fully compressed. The point of contact would have been the big aluminium casting that is bolted to the front of the block. I trimmed a bit off this casting and all was well. I also noticed that on full suspension compression the front propshaft would hit the flywheel housing, so a bit had to be trimmed off that too.
I have done about 6000 miles since the conversion and have done about 20 greenlaning trips with it. The engine does not go quite as well as a 2 1/4 petrol, but it will get up to just short of 80 mph (7.50 x 16 tyres, no overdrive) on the flat. The mpg is about 30. All in all I am very pleased with the conversion, but I would not do it again. So many modifications are needed to get it to fit and I do worry about the timing belt snapping when wading through deep water, as the timing case is not and cannot be sealed. Having said that I, have done a river crossing, on the Strata Florida lane, with water coming over the bonnet, without any problems. Another problem that should be solved is that Flywheel housing is not sealed, this could be done but would need some ingenuity. I can't help thinking that a Land Rover 2.5 N/A diesel is the best diesel engine for a series LR - It is designed for offroading i.e. sealed timing case and flywheel housing and it bolts straight onto the gearbox. I believe that the Series III manifolds will bolt onto the head so you can use a standard downpipe and oil bath filter and pipework. Another significant problem is that the Transit engine is ear splittingly noisy. I drove it for quite a while with no soundproofing, but if you don't want to damage your hearing or wear ear plugs then you need some sort of sound proofing.
In conclusion I would say that if you don't intend to drive the vehicle into deep muddy water, you really love Transit engines, you can weld and are prepared to tinker around making everything work, then fit a Transit engine. If want to do the cheapest and least time consuming engine conversion, don't mind having a slightly less efficient engine, want a really tidy installation, then sell your Transit engine and get a 2.5 N/A Land Rover engine.
Beware - The transit engine will not fit a series IIA gearbox bellhousing as the clutch slave cylinder will foul the starter motor. This is probably the case for Series I and II bellhousings too.
Matt TDi
New Member
It seems like an awfully unnecessary conversion when compared to a standard 12J 2.5 N/A diesel specifications:
Land Rover 2.5 N/A Diesel - 67BHP ~ 114lb.ft
Ford Transit 2.5 Di N/A Diesel (Early/Late) - 69BHP/74BHP ~ 107lb.ft/109lb.ft
Granted there are more Transit engines about than working 12Js, but still, when you look at chopping the bulkhead and relocating the pump, you have to realise it's not really worth it, a 200TDi conversion would be easier and much more worthwhile.
Land Rover 2.5 N/A Diesel - 67BHP ~ 114lb.ft
Ford Transit 2.5 Di N/A Diesel (Early/Late) - 69BHP/74BHP ~ 107lb.ft/109lb.ft
Granted there are more Transit engines about than working 12Js, but still, when you look at chopping the bulkhead and relocating the pump, you have to realise it's not really worth it, a 200TDi conversion would be easier and much more worthwhile.
dr pepper
New Member
I thought about the tranny engine too, and the pugrot xud9, the tranny is very loud and shaky, wearing on a long drive no doubt.
spares are readily available though.
One thing, the alty has the vac pump on the back for the brakes, if you run this unconnected it gets upset and screams, your gonna have to dismantle it and take out the moving bits.
spares are readily available though.
One thing, the alty has the vac pump on the back for the brakes, if you run this unconnected it gets upset and screams, your gonna have to dismantle it and take out the moving bits.
wilson210484
New Member
200tdi as good as any option
dr pepper
New Member
I've been looking for a 200tdi, I think breakers know about the conversion too much, the prices are a bit silly, a complete running disco is cheaper.
Trannys on the other hand are cheap and even more common, if your a tight backsided scots like me its an interesting proposition.
The fitment I hear is not so hard either, the only ache is the lift pump.
Trannys on the other hand are cheap and even more common, if your a tight backsided scots like me its an interesting proposition.
The fitment I hear is not so hard either, the only ache is the lift pump.
wilson210484
New Member
Tell me about the prices of the 200 tdi they are silly!! My old 2 1/4 is smokin real good I've tried injectors did the head gasket but still she smokes I reset the timing on the pump too. Good clear diesel smoke! So I could do with a new engine asap!!
Abdullah Shah
New Member
3)
Abdullah Shah
New Member
Which toyota engine would be a suitable replacement for 2.25 diesel series 3 engine
a) to exactly fit on the orignal foundations with the series 3 gearbox
b) with minimum modifications
the toyota 2c turbo and 3c turbo jap import engines are becoming popular over here.the early 2c had overheating problems so dont go earlier than 98.milage is exelent with reports of 13 to 15 km per liter and and easily 90 to 100 kph.gilo engenering in south africa make adapters and mountings for any engine to any gearbox,im sure they export.ive got a toyota 2.4 turbo from a surf that i was going to transplant but changed my mind,its a **** engine and heavy on fuel
