notowbar · Dec 28, 2012

Hello chaps,
I am hoping to flush my rad and engine tomrrow (TD4, 2001). I think Ive worked out how to do it with disconnecting the pipes and flushing the rad first then back flushing the engine separetly. I just need to know how to locate the bleed screw when I fill her back up again??? I know there is one but I'm not sure where it is.

Thanks
Nick

notowbar · Dec 28, 2012

Just about to start the job now, anyone any idea about the bleed screw?

Freelaner · Dec 28, 2012

There are two one on the heater inlet and one under the dizzy in a metal pipe

notowbar · Dec 28, 2012

Thanks for that, I will have a butchers at them now.

Singvogel · Dec 28, 2012

To get rid of all traces of old coolant yoiu need to fill it again and empty it a few times.

After your finished and the new antifreeze in you'd we wise to check the highest bleed screw first thing in the morning with the heater set at max.

I had to bleed mine every day for a week to get 100% of the air out and the heater as efficient as possible.

Beware of dropping the bleed screws into the black hole of never-never land behind / underneath the engine. Slippery little beggars they are.

You don't really need to take them right out anyway.

Singvogel.

notowbar · Dec 28, 2012

Hi, sorry about this, just finished unclipping,flushing,cleaning the expansion tank. All clean and dandy now. Just clipped the pipes back on and about to fill up with new anti freeze and I can only find the one bleed screw which is near the bulk head on the inlet rubber pipe. Slap me with a fish but where is the second bleed screw as I look into the engine??? Stood here with the AF about to go in..............Dont want to start filling until I know where it is.
Thanks
Nick.

teddywood1 · Dec 28, 2012

Freelaner said:
There are two one on the heater inlet and one under the dizzy in a metal pipe

he has not got a dizzy its a td4

notowbar · Dec 28, 2012

ok, so there is only one bleed screw? I have filled up and the engine is running. i will let you know how it goes............

Freelaner · Dec 28, 2012

notowbar said:
Hi, sorry about this, just finished unclipping,flushing,cleaning the expansion tank. All clean and dandy now. Just clipped the pipes back on and about to fill up with new anti freeze and I can only find the one bleed screw which is near the bulk head on the inlet rubber pipe. Slap me with a fish but where is the second bleed screw as I look into the engine??? Stood here with the AF about to go in..............Dont want to start filling until I know where it is.
Thanks
Nick.

sorry Nick, i thought you had a real engine in yours

not too up on the doozles but i did find this:-

The easy way to do this is remove the small bleed pipe that goes to the header tank (where you fill the coolant up)
Then get a drain tin and point the bleed pipe into it. start the engine ( do this with the engine cool) the coolant will run out of the bleed pipe into your drain tin. while it drains out. fill the header tank back up. Run 2 litres out and back in. Use the correct long life red/pink coolant. No need to buy landrover coolant your local motor factors will sell it.

it has been blatently stolen from another forum

all the best mate

Singvogel · Dec 28, 2012

notowbar said:
ok, so there is only one bleed screw? I have filled up and the engine is running. i will let you know how it goes............

Wrongee - there are 2 bleed screws on an M47R - the less obvious one is on the cooling jacket on the exhaust ducting to the EGR if you liik from the battery side you can see it under the edge of the engine cover - the same type of screw that's on the heater pipe.

Singvogel.

zoolander · Dec 28, 2012

So what's the best method to bleed the air out of the cooling system?

Use both bleed screws? Or the tube removal from the header tank as described above? Or a mixture of both?

Just interested to know

cheers

Singvogel · Dec 28, 2012

First start of the day - with heater control set to max - open the bleed screw on the EGR exhaust feed - it's highly unlikely that there will be any air there - it's just a check.

Then open the bleed screw on the heater return pipe - you might well hear a 'phisttttt' of air from that one.

If you do just shut it after water appears and then repeat again the next day.

I only did the EGR one once - but had to do the upper one several time before I got all the air out.

Always a good idea to check again in a couple of weeks time.

I wouldn't bother with the header tank idea - unless you had serious problems - eg no heat from the heater.

SV

zoolander · Dec 29, 2012

Thanks for the answer SV
I'll give it a try again. I have been bleeding out daily from the upper bleed screw wasn't aware of the other.
Had the same last winter with my TD4 - took ages for the temp gauge to start moving. When its frosty here (just wind & rain right now) I can leave the car ticking over for 10 minutes and the gauge barely moves. Have to start driving before I get any temperature in the car. I have no heated windscreen as my car is the 2005 basic Adventure model.
Only just found out from this forum about the existence of the PTC heater - checked that out and all appears to be working. The car does get up to the 12 o'clock position on the heater after about 8 miles so don't know if im being fussy or maybe time to change the thermostat.
cheers all
Dave

notowbar · Dec 30, 2012

Update so far, left the engine running last night for about 20 mins. It took the temp gauge at least the 20 mins before it began to reach its normal reading on the temp clock. Checked all the hoses which all felt warm except the bottom hose which was still cool. ( I had to go the pub then so work stopped!!)
Took her out for a short run , about 8 mile today. Waited for the temp gauge to rise then flicked the heater on. Heating appears to be luke warm. I will have another go at bleeding tomorrow (still cannot locate the other bleed screw and Ive really searched for it), so I will work on the one near the bulk head and try it on the first turn over of the day with the heater on full.
Will keep you updated.
Cheers for now.

zoolander · Dec 30, 2012

Yes I looked for the other bleed point yesterday myself and couldn't find it!
Interested to hear how you get on.

Singvogel · Dec 30, 2012

zoolander said:
Yes I looked for the other bleed point yesterday myself and couldn't find it!
Interested to hear how you get on.

I'm puzzled as to why you guys can't find it.

Just been to check on mine again.

Surely my facelift 2004 (05MY) TD4 can't be different from all the others.

Standing at LH (passenger side) front wheel look over the top of the ECU box down to where the EGR feed pipe is - and you can see it immediately underneath the black plastic oval feed pipe that enters the air-filter housing.

Exactly the same type of bleed screw as is on the heater return pipe.

Have another look guys.

Singvogel.

The Mad Hat Man · Dec 30, 2012

:nopics:

schultz · Dec 30, 2012

hi are your water hoses getting hard or can you still squeeze them.
you could have a water pump problem that was the case with mine.

Singvogel · Jan 1, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
:nopics:

Ear Yugo - sorry, Here you go.

Apologies for the delay in getting the pics.

This is for the folks who couldn't find the 2nd bleed-screw on a TD4's M47R engine.

As said - it's on the cooler for the EGR exhaust feed-pipe.

Singvogel.

zoolander · Jan 1, 2013

Thanks for the photos SV appears my bog standard 2005 TD4 don't have the bleed point here.

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