Littelwill

Well-Known Member
I know this has been covered before a few times but please bare with me..

Could one of you guys help me out here. I'm going to change my flex plate on the P38 (diesel Auto) It'll be an on my back on axle stands type thing so could someone that has done it like this give me a run down (in idiot terms) of how to do it.

I'm planning on unbolting the bell housing and the gear box mounts and pushing the gearbox and transfer box back.. replacing the flex plate and pushing it back together... Simples? :eek:


Thank you
 
Unbolt torque converter from flex plate before you separate box from engine,and keep it in bell housing when sliding it all back,prob have to undo transmission cooler pipes as well,props,make sure it's well supported really heavy
 
Ok thanks. Maybe a stupid question but how do you get the torque converter unbolted first? Throw the inspection plate hole?
 
Never had the gearbox out on an auto. The manual is pretty heavy with the transfer box still on though, especially if you're on rough ground. A friend made me up a plate that bolted to the gearbox and went in the jack.

I'm not sure this is possible but ... if you had it on extended ride height rather than axle stands, might be easier to unbolt and push the car forward in neutral? Is that even possible?
 
Not sure where the hole is on a diesel but you removed rubber grommet on the v8 to unbolt torque converor from flex plate,will be on engine side of bell housing probably at the side of your sump facing back to rear,
 
Grrr I wasn't planning on taking the box out just splitting them and pushing it far enough back to work on the flex plate.
 
Just make absolutely sure that the torque convertor stays in place in the bell housing, if it moves forward it will disengage from the oil pump and when you put the gearbox back the drive tangs will break leaving you in a world of pain.
I think you are wasting your time, get a cheap endoscope and take a look at the flex plate before you do a lot of unnecessary work.
 
Did the stethoscope indicate the noise was coming from the front then?
 
Desperation, I suspect. Know how he feels. Been there. And that vibration would do my nut in.
 
Desperation, I suspect. Know how he feels. Been there. And that vibration would do my nut in.
Going for changing big heavy units on spec is not a good way to go, especially as all the signs are that it external from the OP's description.
 
Going for changing big heavy units on spec is not a good way to go, especially as all the signs are that it external from the OP's description.

I still don't understand why it doesn't do it in neutral but it does in park ... unless it is the pin that holds it in park that is loose?
 
The reason for changing the flex plate is like Grrr has said pure desperation... I can't see how it can be anything else as I've changed everything I can think of! If the flex plate doesn't fix it I'm selling it.

so i'll ask politely again. Could somebody please walk me through changing one?

Thanks again.
 
Sorry, Will. Never done one. Sure someone did one recently. StuStrong, perhaps?

Have you tried running the car with the serpentine belt off? Maybe take the viscous off too? Easy to do and not as much hassle as a flex plate I suspect and might be a cause of vibration.
 
Ok, It seems there are two different types of flex plate when you google p38 2.5 flexplate. The triangular one and a large circular one with gear teeth around the outside of it... which one is correct for a Diesel auto? or are they year specific?

Thank you :)
 
Ok, It seems there are two different types of flex plate when you google p38 2.5 flexplate. The triangular one and a large circular one with gear teeth around the outside of it... which one is correct for a Diesel auto? or are they year specific?

Thank you :)
The large circular one with gear teeth sounds like the flywheel to me:)
 
will your better dropping box totally out its not difficult, trying to move box back is a pain/heavy & its totally unbalanced ps flex plates fail/crack common fault
 

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