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Buel10

Active Member
Hi all.
FL was idling and then stopped. I turned her over, was turning over fine but wouldn't start. AA man found shredded alternator belt and pulled it out but he couldn't understand why it wouldn't start. He suggested that perhaps the belt had got entwined with the cam belt in some way and affected the timing?

It's in the garage but am curious as to any thoughts why it won't start after the alternator belt has gone? AA man said it is turning over plenty quick enough to start?
 
Suppose first thing to check are any diagnostic codes.

Plenty of F1 L Series engines killed by droped aux belts taking out the cambelt.
 
If the engine is quick spinning but not starting it can mean the cam belt is gone. Remove the oil cap on the rocker arm cover and look down into it and have someone crank the engine. If the rocker arms aren't moving, that's your problem.
 
Buel10 said:
Hi all.
FL was idling and then stopped. I turned her over, was turning over fine but wouldn't start. AA man found shredded alternator belt and pulled it out but he couldn't understand why it wouldn't start. He suggested that perhaps the belt had got entwined with the cam belt in some way and affected the timing?

It's in the garage but am curious as to any thoughts why it won't start after the alternator belt has gone? AA man said it is turning over plenty quick enough to start
Click to expand...

I though the Auxiliary belt could not touch the timing belts due to covers.

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Have a read, good answer from Nodge whom we have lost due to some being nasty towards his threads
www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelancer 2 alternator belt and starting issue

Hi looking for a bit of advice ref my son‘s 2013 Freelander 2 td4, on his way to work his aux belt went he had the AA out and they replaced it and when they started it the car started for a few seconds then cut out and the belt had started to shred the belt again so the AA arranged recover to...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Western Slope Rover said:
If the engine is quick spinning but not starting it can mean the cam belt is gone. Remove the oil cap on the rocker arm cover and look down into it and have someone crank the engine. If the rocker arms aren't moving, that's your problem.
Click to expand...
Or if the belt is intact it may be out of alignment. When turning over it may regularly go a bit faster if there's no compression.
 
Hi all.
The results are in....kind of....had the garage do a scan of the FL2 (BTW, it's been written off)

Thoughts on if these show anything re it not starting?
 

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Only a guess but clearly not sending a valid signal. Nodge did his at the roadside so guess its not too hard. Have a look at it first, May be physically broken ?? Never worked on a FL2 but that's where I would start !!
 
Buel10 said:
Insurance have offered £2,090 but want £522 for me to buy back.....thoughts?
Click to expand...
Do you have any excess to come off that figure? I'd also do a insurance check with go compare with the claim on to see how much it alters.
 
Just my small input....On my 2008 FL2, I recently had the auxiliary belt go (due to the alternator pulley shaft 'slipping' out), which in turn, knocked the Crank Pulse Sensor out...then my throttle body stuck closed so wouldn't start....
The CPS is a doddle to fit...10mm...check wires too....and I needed an 'Air Path Calibration' to, eventually, fire her up.
From what I've read on the oracle's (Nodge68) postings, the CPS can send out all sorts of errors...but is a cheap place to start.
Oh and check the fuel lines directly above the power steering pump pulley...their very close, and I had a nip taken out of the fuel-in pipe by the belt.
Good luck
 
Buel10 said:
Insurance have offered £2,090 but want £522 for me to buy back.....thoughts?
Click to expand...
Never take the first offer, ask them to find one in the same condition it was before the write off at that price, look at some on the bay which maybe like yours before the write off and send them the prices,

Also say you would like to buy it back at scrap value £275- £350
 
Arctic2 said:
Never take the first offer, ask them to find one in the same condition it was before the write off at that price, look at some on the bay which maybe like yours before the write off and send them the prices,

Also say you would like to buy it back at scrap value £275- £350
Click to expand...
Thanks for that - the thing is that I have checked Autotrader and their valuation for mine (207,000 miles) was around £1,100?
 
Also if you d oclaim, make sure it's logged as "not fault claim". A few years ago we had the insurance go up due to a claim the previous year (van hit the rear of wife's car). After I pointed out it was the other party's fault, and that they won the case and all costs in court, they altered their records & insurance was back to previous price !!
 
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