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FreelanderStephen

Member

• Feb 2, 2025

• #1

Hi all -

Diagnosing a serious vibration in my Freelander 1. Established that there is significant play in the N/S/F Wheel Bearing - So thats being replaced...

Poking around for secondary issues and generally looking over, as there was quite a vibration in my gear stick also, (Looking for potential gearbox mounts etc if it has one) The wheel assembly is connected to the gearbox via the drive shaft + more, so could be from the wheel bearing anyway? Maybe?

Anyway my problem - both Inner Drive Shaft Boots/Gaiters have come away from the joint and it is completely exposed. Have I now got an issue with debris etc in my joint, (Do i need two new shafts?) or can i clean the joint? Or can I just replace the boot/gaiter and fill up with the correct grease?

Oh also, would you recommend replacing the inner and outer boots?

Sorry - Lots of questions!

Thanks,
Stephen

 

Freddie17

Can’t reMember

Full Member

• Feb 2, 2025

• #2

If the boots have come away, then there will be (and have been for some time) a distinct lack of grease and exposure to water / debris.
You can try taking them all off, disassembling & cleaning them, inspecting for damage, reassembling and replacing with new boots, but if it were me, I'd simply be replacing both front driveshafts (and cv's) with new, and I'd be doing both the front bearings at the same time.
I'm guessing they have been on the vehicle for some time, and if you plan on keeping it, then worthy of the maintenance.

 

Alteredtech

Well-Known Member

• Feb 2, 2025

• #3

Hi,

The problem with drive shaft is getting decent ones, sure you can buy one for £100, you put it, it will do the job. But in less than 2 years you probably need to change it again …

You need to put GKN driveshafts if you want something that last …

 

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FreelanderStephen

Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #4

Thanks both. @Freddie17 @Alteredtech

I plan on removing/replacing both driveshafts and both hubs/wheel bearings as I will have both anyway.

Can anyone give me any guidance on oil seals in the gearbox and IRD? I don't have the 'correct' tool to pull the drive shaft out, and so I could just proceed with less caution, if it were a good idea to replace the seals whilst I'm there? And if I'm looking at the correct things, OEM seals are around £10-£15 anyway.

 

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #5

Do the seals for the extra cost. Otherwise it is shafts out again later.
I find, a small chunk of hard wood on the joint and a sharp smack with a large hammer pulls the shaft out. It is held by a circlip on the shaft in a recess so smart and hard is better than lots of gentle whacks.

 

Freddie17

Can’t reMember

Full Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #6

This ^

 

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FreelanderStephen

Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #7

Thanks both @andyfreelandy @Freddie17

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #8

I just use a chisel to drive the joint out the box. Did it yesterday, pretty easy to get out. The bottom ball joint was much harder to free than swapping out the shaft.

 

GrumpyGel

Well-Known Member

• Feb 3, 2025

• #9

Your first problem, well actually 2nd after spending quite a bit of cash on 2 drive shafts!, will be getting the hub nuts off.

They are on super tight. Be prepared to battle with them. Scaffold poles over breaker bar and jumping up and down - or rest on the ground and let the engine do it if you're brave!

One thing to consider, is that if the drivers side inner CV is shot, it can damage its support bearing in the IRD. So try and make sure that is all OK.