Evenin’ Folks

Just a quick question as to bleeding the brakes on an FL1 with ABS. The rear brake lines have been replaced completely from the ‘modulator’(?) so I will be bleeding the whole system. I have a 5 litre can of the DOT 4 stuff in anticipation.

Can anyone just confirm the sequence for me I know it’s not the ‘usual’ method but any info would be great as well as any ‘pointers’ etc.

Have read a few threads but can’t find a more detailed explanation I read on here a while back. If someone could maybe link myself to that I would be grateful.. I also tend to head into a rabbit hole when reading threads emerging later some miles away from my ‘entry point’ and usually none the wiser and possibly confused as to what I was actually looking for in the first place…

MTIA..

Malcolm

I think the sequence I followed was documented in RAVE - but I might be making that up!

When I replaced the modulator, think I bled the fronts, then the rears.

What I found though was that I did a good bleed of the brakes, and they were not that great. So I did another bleed of all 4 corners and then they performed really well.

I have the WABCO ABS on my '99. Although it was "full" of fluid when I installed it, I'm not sure if it was and some must have come out when installing it because it had air in it. I found that as I pumped the brakes, somehow, fluid was being pumped out, then sucked back rather than staying there... it wasn't getting through to the bleed nipple. In the end I removed the 4 output pipes from the top of the modulator one at a time and injected fluid into the modulator. This sorted the problem and the bleed went well after that using a 1 man bleed kit. Dunno which kit you have and whether the Teves would give the same symptoms.

I have a couple of options other than ‘the two man’ set up. I have a vacuum method although it’s not the best example and the other is good old Gunsons.. depending on which one is still operational.. pretty sure the TEVES system doesn’t mind Gunsons too much.. if it does then ‘Big Sis’(who isn’t big at all) will be depressing the pedal downwards so to speak.. I’m at work ATM just after leaving the house for work I remembered I actually have a Haynes manual and maybe I should just read up on what that says, if only for ‘Shi7z and giggles’..

Pressure bleeding is effective, and less damaging to the master cylinder seals. Bleed in this sequence. RL, RR, FL, FR.

In the past I heard the sequence was, start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back.

Alibro said:

In the past I heard the sequence was, start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back.

Click to expand...

That's correct Ali.

Hello,
I don't want to start a new thread so continue here, hope that's ok.

I have previously followed the sequence stated in rave manual where you start with the front. If I follow your suggestions for a LHD car then I have to bleed in this order, RR,RL, FR, FL or??

Regards Chris

Chris_68 said:

Hello,
I don't want to start a new thread so continue here, hope that's ok.

I have previously followed the sequence stated in rave manual where you start with the front. If I follow your suggestions for a LHD car then I have to bleed in this order, RR,RL, FR, FL or??

Regards Chris

Click to expand...

On a LH drive car, simply reverse the side order like you've done.

Great, thank you!