Vehicle - 2002, Td4, ES, manual, 5 door, Epsom Green, 57k but far from perfect

I happened on the above car and given the current levels of boredom I thought why don’t I do it up before I put it on the road. This despite the fact it has a12 month MOT.

So the list went like this:-
1. De-rust undercarriage (horrendous)
2. 40mm lift kit
3. Nobbly tyres
4. Light protectors, winch, snorkel and all that jazz.
5. K&N air filter, Ronbox and any other performance mods I don’t know about.

So I got busy on the undercarriage and suspension rust. Nuts were domed, sizes indeterminable. Just get scrattin’

I’ve spent hours underneath it and at some point on that cold concrete workshop floor I started to love her for who she is. It lead me to this site and you’ve no idea how helpful you’ve all been. Thank you so much.

I’m a very capable hands on type but I’ve avoided cars in fear of their complexity. Any external nuts can never be reached, every internal trim is held on by fit once, instantly breakable clips and some componentry design is the work of Satan (drivers side door lock actuator being a good example).

But I’ve never done a motor so let’s give it a whirl. Right how do I get those arch liner plastic ‘scrivets’ out?!!! Honestly ‘scrivet’, in no other world does the term scrivet exist. And whilst I’m at it why on earth would they use female Torx bits. No need!!!

So all the above was in late December but some muppet knocked me off my bike and that put the project on hold
0D66B15B-BCA3-4951-B21C-49C49AB52E13.jpeg

I mended quick enough and I’ll just update you as to where I am:-
1. Undercarriage and suspension de-rusted and rust converted. Sub frame dropped.
2. Primary fuel pump and fuel filter removed
3. EGR valve off and cleaned
4. New passenger rear window switch
5. Air intake manifold off and half cleaned
6. Rear passenger door check strap re-welded on

But this is what needs doing:-

1. Rear diff oil seal (got a leak, hope it’s not indicative of something worse)
2. New fuel pump and filter (old filter was just connected to itself in a loop so unsure of the exact sequence of pipe connections?)
3. Repair drivers door actuator - non serviceable my ass, ordered a £5 motor from China. That’ll do it I hope
4. Fit new crankshaft breather and replace leak-off fuel rail which I broke removing old breather
5. Mend hole in boot cubby hole and then work out where the water gets in
6. Full undercarriage mastic coating
7. Get air conditioning working
8. New fuel tank cradle
9. Fit front fogs
10. Fit new stereo
11. Fit tow bar
12. Fit BBS vortex 17 inch rims
13. Full respray
14. Fit fancy leather arm rest
15. Full service with a Comma D-tox given the state of the EGR. Tempted to pull the injectors!

So I’ll add some photos when I get to her this week but once again thank you all so much for getting me this far. I hope you find interest in my future progress
 
Nice project, shame about the unexpected "body work repairs" you've had to go through!

If you're straight in and not fazed by rust repairs, then the rest should be a doddle. I hate all those torx screws/bolts to - right PITA.

The rear diffs are pretty strong, they should only have issues if the VCU is allowed to go over tight, and even then its usually the other end of the props that wears first. Believe the seals on the drive shafts are simple replacements, not sure about the pinion though, that might need a bit more effort/care.

You don't mention anything about the VCU. Before you put it back on the road, you want to check that so that it doesn't undo all your good work with costly mechanical repairs. Info here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

Good luck. Look forward to seeing your progress and a decent Freelander back out and about for another 20 years :D
 
Right how do I get those arch liner plastic ‘scrivets’ out?!!! Honestly ‘scrivet’, in no other world does the term scrivet exist.

It's an amalgamation of the words screw and rivet, hence Scrivet. ;)

Oh, and don't fit a K&N, as they're useless, and the oil contaminates the MAF element, causing it to fail. Just use a decent paper filter, and replace it annually.;)

Good luck with the refurbishment,
 
Scrivets are best removed with a small screwdriver, I use a right-angled one, o lver out the middle which spreads the outer plastic legs.
Then a pair of nail pullers to grip the outer and pull it square out.
Buy new ones. I got some with plastic screws in the centre to make it easier next time!!!
 
Oh, and don't fit a K&N,

I hear ya. I don’t plan to now. I was going to do lift kit, K&N, snorkel etc but now I’m going completely genuine to the point where I won’t even fit a cyclone crankcase breather. I’ll fit a new element filter (that muck has to go somewhere!)

You don't mention anything about the VCU.

The car was stripped before I was aware of the potential for VCU problems so I can’t check it. I’m hoping the low mileage and previous gentle owner mean it’s ok.

I did a rotten V6 and just done my TD4

Hi Andy. I feel I know you so well! Yes I’ve already been through your V6/Td4 swop as well as other posts and comments you’ve made. All so incredibly useful.

Here’s some photos of progress

13B57D14-F064-4E00-9E11-37C4C86DD161.jpeg Cubbyhole hole
9E2E098F-95B7-48D6-937A-0D21B14DD6AE.jpeg Sub frame and rear diff
05FEA6D8-4F27-463B-8639-78098D21E2FD.jpeg Fuel filter. Note the filter is just connected to itself!
 
The car was stripped before I was aware of the potential for VCU problems so I can’t check it. I’m hoping the low mileage and previous gentle owner mean it’s ok.
TBH once you've reassembled the car, you can check the VCU then.

If it needs replacement, its a very quick/easy job to whip the props off and replace the VCU.
 
Hi all. I’ve got 5 x 16inch Freedom rims and Pirelli Verdes with 6mm plus for sale if anyone is interested. Tyres have done 6553 miles. Rims have done 57k miles.
 

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