dannyford

New Member
Evening all,

Ive have some time recently to focus on the landy. recently i had a run-un with a parking bollard when my food slipped off the clutch pedal. the result was a smashed in nose cone, lights, side lights, light surround. It also bent my bumper right back to the tyre. I was lucky not to do any other damage to the landy, had it been in the middle of the truck, i could have been looking at rad/bonnet, grill damage.

it was pretty tough getting the bulk of the dent out, a bit of red-neck engineering with the rope/wood helped. the bumper was straightened out by roping it to the back of the navara and reversing.

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the last bit was the filler, prime and paint. I have fitted it with the TD5 light surround and clear indicator. IMO it looks a younger.

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Next job was the interior. I had converted the cab to a hard top last summer but with no lining. This wasn't an issue until the weather changed and the cold set in. I linied the roof/sides with insulation, I used a foil backed bubble wrap from wickes. I then used 3mm ply to keep the weight down and it offers reasonable flexability to get the curve of the roof. The carpet came from carpet right. Its not the best quality but its for the lining of a landy. At the same time I soundproofed the tub using roofing flashing before carpeting and chequer plating the arch.

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At the same time i gave the interior tub a rub down and respray

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Final job was chucking on new wheels/tyres. White modular with 267/75/16 Cooper STT.

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Verdict.

Lining is well worth the time/effort. Probably cost around £60 for materials. really transforms the feel from a farm vehicle to a car. you can notice the difference in temp when you get in the morning and keeps the little heat produced from the heaters.
 
The back looks good mate. Will be doing very a similar thing in my 110 soon

thanks, If your planning on using ply to create a curve id suggest the sheets from wickes. they come 4ft x 2ft. i found these are a little easier to bend. for the rest of the straight pannels i used ply from my local builders merchant as its cheaper than wickes.
 
Bloody lovely job of the roof! I have just stuck similar carpet to my roof to last me over winter. Then I'll probably have a go at what you've done! Great skills you have.
 
Bloody lovely job of the roof! I have just stuck similar carpet to my roof to last me over winter. Then I'll probably have a go at what you've done! Great skills you have.

cheers mate, I did think of sticking it straight to the roof but I thought it would be better to have an air gap between the roof/carpet to help insulate and keep the condensation away. It also deadens the road noise quite considerably.
 
How did you do the front edges?

do you mean above the door? these were really tricky to do. unlike the other panels where I cut the ply,then carpeted, then fitted. I cut the ply shorter so that the curve angle was less. I was then able to hammer it into the corner, doing so made the curve tighten up. I then stuck the carpet on after.
 
Decent job does carpeting it out make much diff to sound deadning




It didn't make much difference on mine, it's still mainly engine noise that dominates. It's a lot warmer though as it heats up much quicker.
 
Mines mainly engine noise as well, also my tyres are rather loud :violin:

I was mainly doing it to get rid of the drips landing on my head on cold mornings!
 
I was luck enough to have the county liner but it was shagged stripped off the liner and painted them then used the last of the stretch carpet I bought for the camper on the front liner . But the biggest difference was sticking soundproof to the roof and foil covered bubble wrap to the back of the liners. As you said more like a car . Im going to do the sides and the floors . Just as soon as I can stop it leaking like a bloody sieve
 
Wow that’s an incredible job on the roof. I’ve got a 110 CSW that I have closed the rear section off. I fitted a new storage unit in the rear and am about to remove the side windows and fit upward opening doors like a utility truck. I’ve got the original roof lining in mine and it sags, so as I have no idea how to repair it, been searching for an alternative. I think you have solved it for me.

I’m going to follow you and try to do the same, and then get rid of my old lining, unless I can find a way of repairing the roof lining first.
What did you use to stick the insulation to the roof? And what did you glue the carpet up with? Any chance of a picture of the area above the front doors done, I can’t get my head around how to do that bit.
Finally how did you stop the ply from sagging in the middle, have you screwed it to the roof?
 
by the looks of it his screwed battern where the channel is of the roof. As for glue any heavy duty spray glue is good enough. Iv used loads on the buses for years and has never let me down just dont get the cheap crap
 
by the looks of it his screwed battern where the channel is of the roof. As for glue any heavy duty spray glue is good enough. Iv used loads on the buses for years and has never let me down just dont get the cheap crap

Yep I've used a decent spray glue to fix the carpet to the ply. The carpet I used had a decent foam backing so the bond should last. I used ,sticks like s@#t to bond the battening to the roof, this doesn't need to take any weight, if anything it's pushed into the roof from the pressure of the curve. I then screwed the ply panels into the battening and the central support running down the centre of the roof.

I then covered lengths of ply and covered where the ply joined. This added to the rigidity of the lining as well as covering all the joins.

If anyone is thinking of doing this and wants to have a look, you are more than welcome to pop over, I can talk you through it a little better too. Her indoors is good at the tea making too:)
 
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